This short film is a dramatization of what could happen on a mountaineering expedition into the high places of the world. It begins with one climber joining his mates in their tent to inform them that one of the other members of the team has gone missing. From there, things escalate quickly. You'll have to watch all the way to the end to get the full effect, but it is worth the pay off.
Mountain Fever from Kabakon Film & Medien on Vimeo.
Showing posts with label Mountaineering. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mountaineering. Show all posts
Nepal Supreme Court Overturns Rules Banning Disabled Climbers
Yesterday I posted a story about a legal brief that was filed with the Supreme Court in Nepal asking to overturn new regulations that banned disabled climbers from Everest, most notably blind mountaineers and double amputees. This new rule has been widely criticized in the mountaineering community, and apparently rightly so. The highest court in Nepal took very little time in rendering its judgement, ordering the government to remove the clause altogether.
Several lawyers argued in front of the court on behalf of disabled climbers saying that the new rules were discriminatory against the disabled. They argued that not only were the new regulations unconstitutional under Nepali law, but they were in violation of United Nations conventions as well. Apparently those argument were well founded, as the five-person Supreme Court quickly issued a request to the Council of Ministers in Nepal to withdraw these new regulations.
This is good news for a number of climbers with disabilities who had hoped to attempt Everest this year or next. Most notably amongst them is Hari Budha Magar, a double-amputee who summited Mera Peak this past autumn and had hoped to potential go to Everest this spring. Magar lost both of his legs above the knee while serving as a British Ghurka soldier in Afghanistan.
Officials from the Department of Tourism have indicated that they would comply with the court order once it is officially given to them. They have heard and understand the ruling, but have yet to get the official paperwork. That formality should be taken care of shortly however, clearing the way for these climbers to proceed to Everest this spring.
All I can say is that this is good news all around. I've been fairly critical of these new rules and I'm happy to see that they won't stand and the disabled climbers will get their chance. Well done Nepal. (That's something I don't get to say often!)
National Geographic Announces 2018 Adventurers of the Year
Two of the names that would have been easy to predict making the list include climber Alex Honnold, who stunned the world with his free solo of El Capitan last summer, and Kilian Jornet, who managed to summit Everest twice in a span of five days. They're joined by surfer and humanitarian Emi Koch, ski mountaineer Hilaree Nelson O'Neill, mountain biker Rajesh Magar, photographers and scientists Cristina Mittermeier and Paul Nicklen, as well as stereotype-breaking ultrarunner Mirna Valerio.
As usual, all of these adventurers have great stories to share and each is deserving of making the cut. This year's list is a bit smaller than in year's past, but I think that helps lend an air of exclusivity and prestige to the winners. Unlike in years past however, it does seem that Nat Geo has done away with the "People's Choice" award.
Normally these awards would be announced in November or December as a recap to the year that had just passed. When the announcement failed to come last fall, there were questions as to whether or not the Adventurers of the Year program had gone away. I had several of you email me to see if I knew anything, but I didn't have anything to report. In the past, I was honored to have been asked to submit some suggestions for nominees, but that didn't happen this year either. In the end however, I'm just glad to see these deserving men and women get their moment to shine and to know that we'll see more adventurers get the nod in the future too.
Find out more about this year's class of adventurers by clicking here.
Nepal's Everest Ban for Double Amputees Challenged in Supreme Court
A petition was submitted to the court last week by Madhav Prasad Chamlagain, a lawyer who has represented persons with disabilities in the past as well. He seeks to have a specific sub-clause of the new regulations removed, most notably the one that bans blind climbers and double amputees. Chamlagain argues that the court should intervened on this issue immediately on the grounds that it is a violation of human rights granted by Nepal's constitution, as well as the United Nations conventions on the rights of people with disabilities.
According to the Himalayan Times story linked to above, the case will be heard in court tomorrow, with a possible ruling to follow quickly. That could mean that a decision will be rendered before the start of the 2018 spring climbing season, allowing disabled climbers to still join any planned expeditions that could take place this year. Among them could be Hard Budha Magar, who was training for just such a climb this past fall on Mera Peak.
The feeling amongst most in the mountaineering community is that a ban on disabled climbers is too sweeping, and that individuals who have proven their abilities should still be allowed to climb the mountain. The fatality rate amongst disabled climbers on Everest is next to nothing, usually because they have a good support team around them. This provision was passed under the guise of making things safer, but considering the overwhelming number of deaths that occur on the mountain are for able-bodied climbers, this rule doesn't seem to make Everest safer for anyone.
Hopefully we'll get a swift ruling on this and those who want to climb Everest will still be given a chance. It should be interesting to see how this plays out in the days ahead.
Winter Climbs 2018: Everest and K2 Winter Expeditions Come to an End
We'll start on Everest where Alex Txikon has pulled the plug on his winter attempt without the use of supplemental oxygen. When last we checked in, the Basque alpinist, along with climbing partner Muhammad Ali Sadpara and a strong team of Sherpa guides, was heading upwards to make a summit bid with a narrow weather window opening last weekend. But, that window slammed shut and the team was forced to return to Base Camp.
Unfortunately, their climbing permit expired on February 28, and while it would have been relatively easy to extend its deadline, Txikon decided to head home instead. Sadapara and one of the Sherpas were forced to return to Kathmandu and the weather in the days ahead didn't look promising. Alex said it was a tough decision to make, but ultimately he knew it was the right one. The entire squad has left the mountain now.
Meanwhile, over on K2 things have been equally eventful. This morning the Polish Ice Warriors team have announced that they are ending their attempt at the first winter ascent of that mountain due to a number of factors. After looking at the weather forecasts, team leader Krzysztof Wielicki found poor conditions throughout the month of March with only one narrow weather window to take a shot at the summit. He also cited avalanche dangers and deep snow on the upper flanks of the mountain, as well as the high likelihood that Camps 1, 2, and 3 have been destroyed by the current weather pattern. With the safety of the climbers in question, he has decided to go home, leaving K2 unclimbed in winter once again.
This comes after what can only be described as a tumultuous few days last week. That's when climber Denis Urubko went rogue, leaving the team and setting out on a solo summit bid. Urubko has been highly critical of Wielicki and his tactics, and has taken shots at his teammates who he didn't feel were climbing fast enough. In his defense, Urubko was clearly the strongest person on the team, and fixed most of the ropes himself. This led to frustration on his part, which boiled over several times, before coming to a head last week.
Without saying a word to Wielicki, Urubko left Base Camp and headed up the mountain with the intent of reaching the summit completely on his own. He managed to climb above C3 before poor weather turned him back, He then returned to BC where he reportedly was unapologetic. He was banned from using the team's Internet, and then later left altogether on February 28. He has yet to share more details on his side of the story.
Finally, Lonnie Dupre has also called off his attempt on Mt. Hunter in Alaska. He was set to make a solo winter attempt on that difficult mountain but heavy snow is preventing that from happening. The forecast calls for more than 6 feet (2 meters) of snow in the next few days, making it a very dangerous climb. Dupre says he will now wait until next winter to make the attempt once again.
That pretty much wraps up the winter climbing season altogether at this point. These were the last three expeditions I was following and I'm not aware of any other major climbs that are currently underway. Of course, in a few weeks we'll start looking ahead to the spring climbing season, which promises to be as eventful as ever.
Winter Climbs 2018: Everest Weather Window Looks Good Heading into Weekend
As we reported yesterday, the team launched its summit bid mid-week and was already in Camp 2. Their last update indicated that they were still there at 6400 meters (20,997 ft) preparing to move up. They may already have moved to Camp 3, but haven't updated their status yet, which would put them in position to climb to C4 with an eye on summiting on Sunday morning. This is all according to plan, as Alex predicted that the final summit push would happen on either Saturday or Sunday. Exactly when they'll make the ascent remains to be seen.
Alan Arnette has had a look at the forecasts – courtesy of EverestWeather.com – and says that winds are expected to subside both Saturday morning and Sunday morning, which means the team will be climbing throughout the night to take advantage of those conditions. Alan also points out they are on a typical schedule for a spring expedition to the South Side of the mountain, with Alex and company not feeling a particular need to rush things.
While conditions do look good and the stage is set for this dramatic climb to unfold, keep in mind that the weather can shift quickly in the Himalaya. With the jet stream on the summit dying down in the mornings, this is a fairly narrow weather window. On top of that, a true winter ascent of the mountain – meaning the expedition took place entirely in the winter season – is a rare feat, let alone doing it without the use of oxygen. Alex and Ali Sadpara are both experienced climbers who will no doubt take every precaution, but this will be a struggle even with the weather conditions in their favor.
We'll keep a close eye on the proceedings and bring you an update when when know more. Alex has said this will be the one and only summit bid, so lets hope everyone gets up and down safely, regardless of whether or not they reach the top.
Winter Climbs 2018: Summit Bid Begins on Everest
The attempt on the summit – the first so far this season – got underway yesterday with the Alex and company reaching Camp 2 in a single push. They'll likely move up to C3 today and be in their final position tomorrow for a potential push to the top on Saturday or Sunday (February 24/25) of this week.
The forecast calls for a good weather window over the next few days. That is a relative forecast of course, this being winter in the Himalaya. Temperatures on the summit are expected to hover around -40ºF/C, with windchills approaching -80ºF/-62ºC. In other words, it will be brutally cold on the way up, and remember Alex is attempting this summit without the use of supplemental oxygen.
In a post on Facebook Alex has called this the "first and last chance to get to the summit of Everest," indicating that he expects this to be their only real chance at topping out this winter. With about a month to go yet before the end of the season, I would have expected the team to at least consider a second summit bid should they not make it this time. But, it has been a long couple of months on the mountain and the entire squad is probably ready to get the expedition over with. Hopefully that means they'll come home with their mission completed.
Meanwhile, over on K2 the Polish Ice Warriors have posted a short and sweet message about their current status. The entire team is now in Base Camp where they are resting and recovering from recent efforts. The group has now gone as high as 7200 meters (23,622 ft) in their acclimatization and gear shuttling efforts. They'll now spend a few days regaining some strength before launching the next phase of the expedition, which looks to make the first winter ascent of the mountain.
Finally, fresh off of his failed-attempt on Mt. Lucania with Pascale Marceau, Lonnie Dupre has announced he is about to embark on a late winter solo attempt on Mt. Hunter in Alaska. The peak was first climbed in winter back in 1980, but no one has managed to solo it during that season just yet. Dupre himself made an attempt last year, but was turned back on that expedition too. Now, he's returning to the 4441-meter (14,573-ft) peak to give it another go.
Hunter is considered one of the more challenging and technically demanding 14ers in North America. This is especially true during the winter when high winds, deep snow, and brutally cold temperatures add to the equation. Durpre says he'll head to the mountain in the final week of February and will begin by first shuttling gear up the first 450 meters (1500 feet) to create and advanced base camp not he mountain. When the forecast gives him a good window, he'll launch a week-long, ultra-light push to the top. No doubt the plan is to sleep in snow caves like he did on his solo summit of Denali a few years back.
The entire expedition, which is dubbed "Cold Hunter One," is expected to take just 15 days to complete.
We'll of course keep an eye on all of these climbs as they continue to unfold.
Winter Climbs 2018: Continued Progress on K2, Still Waiting on Everest with One Month to Go
On K2, the Polish Ice Warriors are continuing to take what the mountain gives them and are slowly and steadily working their way upward. In the latest update on the expedition it was revealed that Adam Bielecki and Denis Urubko have now established camp at 7200 meters (23,622 ft), while other teammates are following behind in regular rotations. The entire squad continues to work on acclimatization and are shuttling gear and supplies up the mountain.
After making the change to the Abruzzi Route the team has had to reinstall fixed ropes and redo some of the work they had already done elsewhere. But, as of today, they still have one month to go to complete the first winter ascent of K2, so there is still plenty of time for them to put everything together, adjust to the altitude, and look for a weather window. But in another week or two, things will start to get tight, so making steady progress is important. Weather will ultimately dictate the final schedule, but the team is putting in the work to get them into the right position to potentially have a shot at reaching the top.
Meanwhile, over on Everest, Alex Txikon and crew continue to wait. High winds further up the mountain are preventing them from making a summit push. The team is ready to go but need a proper window that stays open for several days, before they can leave Base Camp. Some forecasts predicted that would happen early this week, but for now conditions have not improved enough to allow them to go up.
While in BC thins aren't completely without incident. Yesterday, Alex posted the video below on Facebook showing an avalanche that occurred above camp. These happen all the time and aren't dangerous provided you're not close to them, but the noise keeps everyone on their toes and watching the glacier above them.
Video: Kilian Jornet's Path to Everest
Last spring, mountain runner Kilian Jornet completed his Summits of My Life project by reaching the top of Mt. Everest not once, but twice. Now, a documentary film about that expedition is about to be released and we have the teaser trailer for it below. That's really all the set-up you need. Can't wait to watch the full film.
The Adventure Podcast Episode 7: Adventure News
In this episode I am flying solo, so rather than boring everyone too much, we just picked a few important adventure news items from the past week or so and shared them with listeners. This is a much shorter episode than usual too, running just 17 minutes in length. Next week, we'll be back to the usual format, before we goin on hiatus for a bit while I travel and Dave takes care of a major project on his end too.
As always, thanks for listen. If you have any feedback, be sure to drop us a note at theadventurepod@gmail.com or follow us on Facebook and Twitter.
Pakistani Officials Weigh in on Nanga Parbat Rescue Controversy
In a post made to the Pakistan Mountain News page on Facebook officials made four points that they thought were important enough to share. Those points were as follows:
1. First, Pakistan is a developing economy and ‘Tourism’ sector receives much less attention. Despite, it has world’s best wonders. Neither there are institutions for high-demanding-skills rescue operation on mountain nor has it modern resource and equipment.While some will probably look at this list and see a set of excuses, these are all very important things to keep in mind. Pakistan is indeed a developing country that doesn't have the resources of some other nations when it comes fountaining these kinds of operations. It is also true that Tomek and Elisabeth's expedition was a low-budget affair, leaving little room for error and not much in the way of a safety net if things went wrong. Unfortunately, things went very wrong, and they also didn't have the resources for a rescue.
2. Second, these mountaineers go on Nanga Parbat at very economical package. Such economical packages do not cover many essentials. It is only their bravery and audacity that make them to summit in the winter.
3. Third, Askari Aviation does not have high-tech helicopters that can hover around in inclement weather condition. As it was coordinated rescue operation, nobody could help Tomek and Elisabeth in private capacity.
4. Lastly, Poland or French official authorities did not contact State of Pakistan officially after this rescue. However, Eisabeth was given utmost care and attention. The Chief Secretary of Gilgit-Baltistan enquired after her in hospital. She did not utter a word.
Askari Aviation is the company that has received a lot of venom for not reacting quicker and potentially trying to bilk more money out of the operation. But it is also probably true that they don't have very sophisticated helicopter designed for use in the high mountains.
In other words, there are always multiple sides to a story and it is clear that we understand all of the variables at play. Clearly this is a complicated situation with a lot to think about. Sadly, Tomek lost his life, and because of that this will likely be a divisive topic for a long time to come.
Thanks to Alan Arnette for sharing this story.
Winter Climbs 2018: Is it Almost Go Time on Everest?
We'll start in Nepal, where Alex Txikon and his team have been relaxing and waiting in Base Camp. Everyone seems to be in good spirits while they watch the weather forecasts for an opportunity to make a summit push. Currently there is a projected weather window that could come next week on February 20, which means that everyone could be on the move as early as tomorrow to get themselves into position for a dash to the summit. The weather models predict that the wind speeds will die down at last, granting access to the top.
Of course, Alex, Ali Sadpara, and the rest of the squad will carefully pour over the data to ensure that it is safe to make the ascent, otherwise they'll just end up wasting energy. But, if there is a chance that they could complete the climb, it seems like they are poised to do so. Remember, the Basque climber will be going up without the use of supplemental oxygen, so this winter climb is far from a sure thing.
Over on K2, the Polish Ice Warriors continue their work on the Abruzzi Route. According to reports, Denis Urubko has now been as high as 6500 meters (21,325 ft) before being forced back down due to poor weather. The team has shuttled gear up to their new campsites but are now forced to stay in Base Camp while they wait for their next opportunity, which coincidentally could come on February 20 as well.
Perhaps the biggest challenge for the Poles at the moment is team unity. Urubko continues to criticize his teammates, the group's leadership, and even their selection of a climbing route. As usual, he seems like the strongest climber in the group, and has been shouldering much of the work up high, but he also hasn't held back in his critique of how things are going either, taking shots at the other climbers for things like not properly hydrating or assisting with the fixing of ropes. This discord can't be good for morale and could eventually lead to issues between the men. On the other hand, Urubko might be the team's best chance for getting to the summit, so it is a fine line to walk for sure.
We'll continue to keep an eye on things to see how they develop. Right now, the weather is keeping everyone in place, but it seems we're on the verge of summit bids on Everest, and possibly K2 as well. There are still four more weeks of winter to go however, so there is time for both teams to be patient and wait for the right opportunity.
What it Takes to Start a New Guide Service on Everest
The new company is called Climbing the Seven Summits, and as its name indicates, it will help clients climb the tallest peaks in the world. In its inaugural year, CTSS will offer expeditions to Denali, Elbrus, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Vinson, Cho Oyu, and of course Everest. This new operator was founded by professional mountain guide Mike Hamill, who has been a lead guide for IMG for years, heading up their private 1-on-1 expeditions. Now, he's decided to try his hand at running his own company.
In the interview he discusses why he made that decision, the logistics of launching a new guide service, and the challenges that lie ahead for CTSS. He also shares information about his background, how he got started in the business, and how he found time to write a book dedicated to climbing the Seven Summit. Mike also shares stories of the company's first expedition, talks about the competition that all operators face on the Seven Summits, and what it is like to be a guide, launch a new business, and be newly married at the same time. He even tells us which of the Seven are his favorite.
The interview is a good one not just to hear Mike's personal story but for insights into the challenging business of leading clients up big mountains all over the world. At a time when the big operators are seeing increased pressure from smaller, low-budget companies in the Himalaya, it can be a risky proposition to launch a new venture such as this one. But Hamill's reputation is stellar and he is positioning his company to be the authority on climbing the highest peaks on all the continents.
We wish him the best of luck. Hopefully we'll be hearing about CTSS for many years to come.
Winter Climbs 2018: Poles Make a Change on K2, Summit in Siberia
On K2, the Polish Ice Warriors team has made the jump from the Česen Route over to the Abruzzi after yet another climber suffered an injury, this time serious enough to send him home. Last week, you'll recall, Adam Bielecki was struck by a falling rock, breaking his nose and opening a cut that required six stitches to heal. Over the weekend, Rafael Fronia also was hit be a falling rock, this time breaking his arm. This was enough of an injury to send him packing for home, and convince the team to switch to what they hope will be a safer route.
While conditions have been cold and windy on K2, there hasn't been a lot of snowfall, making rockslides much more common. Frozen snow and ice helps to keep that kind of debris in place, but a lack of it has created unsafe conditions. The hope is that the longer, less-steep climb up the Abruzzi will help mitigate some of these issues.
Meanwhile, the team has had some internal problems it seems as well. Denis Urubko posted some blistering thoughts about the progress so far, blasting his teammates to a degree. Urubko took umbrage with the fact that he was the only one installing ropes at higher altitude, and was critical of the other climbers for not staying hydrated and using their cooking stoves inside tents that aren't ventilated properly. Are these messages signs of discontent amongst the group or just his frustration on the lack of progress thus far? We'll have to wait to see, but perhaps the change of route will be good for morale all around.
Over on Everest, the Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, and the rest of the team continue to wait out the winds. Conditions high on the mountain are expected to improve early this week and they are tentatively planning a summit push once the forecast indicates better weather. For now though, there isn't much to do but rest, watch the skies, and prepare for the work yet to come. With 5 weeks of winter still on the calendar, they can afford to be patient.
Finally, there is new of a successful summit in Siberia. Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have reached the top of Pik Pobeda, a remote mountain located in the Chersky Range. The peak is just 3003 meters (9852 ft) in height, but it is located an a bitterly cold location. Last week, prior to launching their summit bid, temperatures were hovering around -40ºC/F, with winds making it feel even colder than that. Despite those conditions however, the duo were able to top out over the weekend, logging the first winter ascent of this mountain.
That's all for now. More updates soon.
Could Tomek Mackiewicz Have Been Saved on Nanga Parbat?
In an interview conducted on Wednesday, Revol said that she feels a lot of anger over the situation. She believes that Mackiewicz could have been saved had officials in Pakistan worked faster and been more forthright in their actions. The French climber says that she sent out an SOS to her husband, Tomek's wife, and Ludovic Giambiasi, who was helping coordinate the expedition from back home. Those three jumped into action to try to get help for Revol and Mackiewicz, but were met with resistance and stalling on the part of the Pakistanis.
Perhaps the most disturbing element to the story is how the Pakistani helicopter rescue team began negotiating the price of starting the operation. According to reports, they initially wanted $15,000 to fly to Nanga Parbat to rescue Elisabeth and Tomak. But as things progressed, that price rose to $40,000 in cash and in advance, before the flight would ever leave the ground.
It should be also noted that while high altitude rescues have become fairly common on Everest and other big Nepali peaks, in Pakistan they remain fairly rare. The pilots and SAR teams don't have much experience conducting such operations, which also makes them hesitant to go too high. Tomek was stranded at 7200 meters (23,622 ft), while Revol was told to descend down to 6300 meters (20,669 ft) to meet a rescue team. When she did that however, no one arrived to lend a hand and she was forced to spend another night exposed to the elements in a crevasse. This eventually led to her pulling her boots off while hallucinating, causing severe frostbite.
Knowing these circumstances, it is easy to understand why Elisabeth feels such anger. She says that she only left Tomek behind because she was instructed to do so and was told that rescuers would go up to retrieve him. Obviously now she feels regret at that decision, although it most likely saved her life in the long run.
Considering the description of the symptoms that Tomek was experiencing at the time, it seems unlikely that he was going to survive the expedition after making a late summit, but spending a night in a crevasse. Revol says that when she woke up the next morning, Mackiewicz was bleeding from the mouth and was unconscious, sure signs of altitude sickness. Unable to move himself, she really had no choice but to descend, and the hard reality is that her companion was quite possibly too far gone at that point regardless.
On the other hand, the fact that another 24 hours passed before anyone came to help leaves room to wonder. Had the Pakistanis reacted much more quickly, could they have saved Tomek too? For their part, the Polish team from K2 put in a heroic effort, climbing as fast as humanly possible considering the terrain and altitude. In the end though, poor weather moved in preventing them from going any higher.
The entire situation will no doubt spur a lot of debate within the mountaineering community. In the end, we'll never know for sure, but it is clear that if you're climbing in Pakistan it is important to understand all of the risks you could face.
Winter Climbs 2018: Injury on K2, Summit Bid Scheduled for Everest
We'll start on K2 where the Polish Ice Warrior team continues to make slow but steady progress. They aren't particularly close to launching a summit bid, but with more than a month to go in the winter season, they still have plenty of time.
But, the team did have quite a scare this week when a large rock tumbled down the slope and hit Adam Bielecki in the face, breaking his nose and tearing a large gash in the process. Teammates Piotr Tomala and Marek Chmielarski performed emergency surgery in Base Camp, where Bielecki received six stitches after being helped down by two high altitude porters. He is not in any danger however, and will resume climbing after resting for a few days.
The rest of the team has continued with its regularly scheduled acclimation rotations, with several members now having spent the night at Camp 2 to allow their bodies to become accustomed to the altitude. The winds have been remained fairly light, at least below 6500 meters (21,325 ft) so far, although snow seems to be falling steadily on most days. How that will impact things as the team goes higher has yet to be seen, but for now things are going according to plan.
Over on Everest, Alex Txikon and Muhammad Ali Sadpara are starting to see their schedule firm up as well. The squad has been in Base Camp after climbing as high as 7850 meters (25,754 ft), poor weather forced them back down to BC where they have been waiting for things to improve for the past week or so. High winds and heavy snow have kept them in place, but things may be improving.
To make matters worse, sections of the Khumbu Icefall have collapsed as well, forcing the team to repair the route they are using through that treacherous section of the mountain. For now, things seem to be holding, but it is a good reminder that the icefall is extremely dangerous, even during the more frigid months of the year.
Conditions are expected to get much better starting this weekend however, which could clear the path for them to go back up next week. In fact, Ali Sadpara has said as much on Facebook indicating that they hope to make a summit push next week. We'll have to wait to see if the summit window actually opens, but for now things are looking optimistic.
Elsewhere, the Pakistani team making the first winter ascent of Mashbrum II has called it quits after finding too much snow on the route. It was making the climb without much funding or resources, and the conditions were just too much for them to overcome. The team is already on its way home.
Finally, there has been an update from Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger, who are attempting to climb the 3003 meter (9852 ft) Pik Pobeda located in the Chersky Range of Siberia. The duo have been on the mountain for awhile now and have established Base Camp and Camp 1. They indicate that there is a lot of snow there and temperatures are hovering around -45ºC/-49ºF, with strong winds.
That's all for now. More updates soon I'm sure.
China and Nepal are Battling it Out for the Future of Everest
This week's article comes our way courtesy of Men's Journal, which has been knocking it out of the park lately with its adventure coverage. This story takes a closer look at how China and Nepal are squaring off with one another to see which of them will play the most prominent role in the direction that Everest will go in the years ahead.
On the one hand, you have the traditional South Side climb in Nepal, which has been the most trafficked route on the mountain for decades. Most climbers go there because they know what to expect, it has been a stable environment for years, and while there are some annoyances and bureaucratic issues to contend with, it is generally a known quantity.
In contrast to this, China has shut its borders on multiple occasions and has tightly controlled access to Base Camp for some time. But, that is changing quickly, and the country is investing heavily in infrastructure – including a new climbing school. Chinese and Tibetan officials of underscored the fact that they are focused on making the North Side much safer and accommodating to climbers. That includes launching a helicopter rescue service by the 2019 season, matching the one that has been active in Nepal for some time.
Like the previous article that I linked to, this one also quotes Alpenglow Expeditions leader Adrian Ballinger, who moved his operations to the North Side three years back. This year, the Altitude Junkies are following suit, and is seems others could join them. And while this isn't likely to be a major shift that takes place in just a year or so, the days of simply going to Nepal to climb seem to be nearly over. China is prepared to offer real competition, and considering some of the dubious choices and actions by the Nepali government over the past few years, their stronghold on Everest could soon be coming to an end.
Check out MJ's full story here.
Nepal's Climbing Sherpas Are Finally Getting Their Summit Certificates
According to The Himalayan Times, more than 500 Nepali mountain guides who successfully reached the summit of a climbing mountain (as opposed to a trekking mountain) over the past two years can now apply to receive their certificates. Since 2015, the government had been refusing to issue such certificates citing a clause in the mountaineering regulations. That clause has now been removed, clearing the way to start issuing the official documents once again.
Prior to 2015, all Sherpa guides received summit certificates just like their foreign clients. But, for some reason the Nepali government changed the rules that year, and there haven't been any certificates issued since then. As you can imagine, this was a source of irritation for the Sherpas, who are instrumental in almost all mountaineering operations in the Himalaya. The failure to prove the documents soon became a source of contention between the ruling ministers and the guides, which was thankfully addressed in these new regulations.
The new rules will impact Sirdars (head Sherpa guides), mountain guides, and high-altitude workers, who reach the summit of the mountains that they are climbing, including Everest. Earning such a certificate has always been a tremendous source of pride for the Sherpas who are the backbone of most expeditions. Now, they'll finally be getting their proper credit once again.
I don't agree with most of the new regulations that Nepal put into place, but I'm happy to see this one was included in the changes. The summit certificates are much deserved. I don't say it often, but well done Nepal.
Winter Climbs 2018: Poles Reunited on K2
We'll start in Pakistan, where the Polish Ice Warriors have reunited on K2. You'll recall that several members of the team left Base Camp last week to assist in the rescue of Elisabeth Revol on Nanga Parbat. After getting her back down the mountain safely, they accompanied her to Islamabad before catching a flight out to Skardu where they could then return to BC. But weather kept them grounded for several days, preventing them from getting back to the work at hand. Late last week however, things cleared up just long enough to allow the entire team to gather together once again and resume their efforts to make the first winter ascent of K2.
The team didn't waste and time in getting back to work either. Well rested after a few days off the mountain, and with a weather window to take advantage of, Denis Urubko and Marcin Kaczkan immediately went up the mountain and have now spent the night in both Camp 1 and 2. That helps to maintain their acclimatization efforts as they look to go higher soon. Depending on the weather conditions, they may even proceed up the peak tomorrow, looking to establish C3 and possibly even spend the night there as well.
In other words, things are back to "normal" on K2.
Meanwhile, over on Everest, Alex Txikon and company have been stuck in Base Camp for a few days. High winds have blasted onto the mountain, keeping them from climbing any higher for now. The team was likely ready for a break, so this weather front may have come at a good time. Last week they reached 7850 meters (25,754 ft) and have been climbing ahead of schedule for the entire season. A bit of down time in BC will allow them to rest, recharge their batteries, and get ready for the next push up the mountain. I would imagine they'd like to establish a camp above 8000 meters, and maybe spend some time acclimatizing above that altitude before making plans for a summit attempt.
Remember, this isn't just about climbing Everest during the winter, which is a pretty impressive feat in its own right. Alex is hoping to summit without the use of bottled oxygen as well, making this truly an expedition for the ages. Technically, there has only ever been one another true winter expedition to Everest, and only one person has ever topped out without oxygen as well. If he is successful, it will be one of the most impressive feats on Everest in recent memory, if not ever.
That's it for now. I'll continue to keep an eye on things on both of these major expeditions and post updates when there is important news to share.
Will Politics and Climate Change Cause More Climbers to Head to the North Side of Everest?
The article notes that several high profile expedition operators – including Alpenglow and Altitude Junkies – have already made the transition to the North Side, and more are expected to follow. Part of that exodus is a result of increased competition on the Nepali side of the mountain, where low-cost operators are bringing larger and larger groups to Base Camp. That has resulted in overcrowding and more inexperienced climbers on the mountain. That trend doesn't look to end soon either, with interest in climbing the world's highest peak on the rise.
On top of that, the political situation in Nepal has made it more challenging for some climbers to attempt Everest. Recent changes to the rules have forbidden disabled or "medically unfit" alpinists from even attempting the climb, with new regulations also banning solo attempts as well. While those may seem like good rules to have in place, it has brought a level of instability and uncertainty to the mountaineering scene there, while also arbitrarily banning climbers who may are perfectly prepared to take on the challenges. This has left some of those climbers to switch to the North Side already, with more expected to follow.
Beyond that however, there is the issue with crossing through the Khumbu Icefall. This section of the climb from the Nepali side has always been challenging and dangerous, but climate change is increasing the hazards dramatically. As temperatures warm, the icefall becomes more unstable, making it not only harder to maintain a safe route through the seracs and crevasses, but also far more likely to collapse, claiming lives in the process. And while the North Side offers its share of technical challenges, it doesn't have anything quite like the icefall to contend with.
The article does note that Tibet took a hit to its credibility back in 2008 when the Chinese government closed the North Side to take the Olympic torch to the summit. That move came swiftly and without much warning, ending several expeditions abruptly. The closure was widely seen as a way to prevent embarrassing protests from being captured by the media or foreign visitors in a time when China was preparing for its modern coming out party.
Since then however, things have been much more stable and open. The country even hires a professional team of climbers to install the ropes to the summit each year, allowing expeditions to worry about other logistical concerns instead. That doesn't happen on the South Side, where a loose association of operators band together to split the workload of installing the lines.
It is for all of these reasons that we could start to see a movement by guide services to the North Side in the years to come. The article does point out however that a growing number of Indian and Chinese climbers are flocking to Everest, with many still going to Nepal to climb. Indians prefer to South Side because of the cultural similarities and close proximity to home, while some Chinese climbers go to Nepal because the government there doesn't require they climb another 8000-meter peak first. In other words, it doesn't look like Nepal's hegemony on Everest will necessarily come to a complete end, but more and more operators are seeing a viable alternative that is safer and more approachable.
Check out the entire story here.