Nepal Supreme Court Overturns Rules Banning Disabled Climbers

Well that didn't take long.

Yesterday I posted a story about a legal brief that was filed with the Supreme Court in Nepal asking to overturn new regulations that banned disabled climbers from Everest, most notably blind mountaineers and double amputees. This new rule has been widely criticized in the mountaineering community, and apparently rightly so. The highest court in Nepal took very little time in rendering its judgement, ordering the government to remove the clause altogether.

Several lawyers argued in front of the court on behalf of disabled climbers saying that the new rules were discriminatory against the disabled. They argued that not only were the new regulations unconstitutional under Nepali law, but they were in violation of United Nations conventions as well. Apparently those argument were well founded, as the five-person Supreme Court quickly issued a request to the Council of Ministers in Nepal to withdraw these new regulations.

This is good news for a number of climbers with disabilities who had hoped to attempt Everest this year or next. Most notably amongst them is Hari Budha Magar, a double-amputee who summited Mera Peak this past autumn and had hoped to potential go to Everest this spring. Magar lost both of his legs above the knee while serving as a British Ghurka soldier in Afghanistan.

Officials from the Department of Tourism have indicated that they would comply with the court order once it is officially given to them. They have heard and understand the ruling, but have yet to get the official paperwork. That formality should be taken care of shortly however, clearing the way for these climbers to proceed to Everest this spring.

All I can say is that this is good news all around. I've been fairly critical of these new rules and I'm happy to see that they won't stand and the disabled climbers will get their chance. Well done Nepal. (That's something I don't get to say often!)

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Nepal's Everest Ban for Double Amputees Challenged in Supreme Court

Remember all of the new regulations that Nepal put in place a few months back? The provisions included good things like ensuring Sherpas get their summit certificates, but it also banned solo climbs on Everest and prevented double amputees from making the attempt as well. That hasn't set well with some climbers, and now the ban on amputees is actually being challenged in the country's Supreme Court.

A petition was submitted to the court last week by Madhav Prasad Chamlagain, a lawyer who has represented persons with disabilities in the past as well. He seeks to have a specific sub-clause of the new regulations removed, most notably the one that bans blind climbers and double amputees. Chamlagain argues that the court should intervened on this issue immediately on the grounds that it is a violation of human rights granted by Nepal's constitution, as well as the United Nations conventions on the rights of people with disabilities.

According to the Himalayan Times story linked to above, the case will be heard in court tomorrow, with a possible ruling to follow quickly. That could mean that a decision will be rendered before the start of the 2018 spring climbing season, allowing disabled climbers to still join any planned expeditions that could take place this year. Among them could be Hard Budha Magar, who was training for just such a climb this past fall on Mera Peak.

The feeling amongst most in the mountaineering community is that a ban on disabled climbers is too sweeping, and that individuals who have proven their abilities should still be allowed to climb the mountain. The fatality rate amongst disabled climbers on Everest is next to nothing, usually because they have a good support team around them. This provision was passed under the guise of making things safer, but considering the overwhelming number of deaths that occur on the mountain are for able-bodied climbers, this rule doesn't seem to make Everest safer for anyone.

Hopefully we'll get a swift ruling on this and those who want to climb Everest will still be given a chance. It should be interesting to see how this plays out in the days ahead.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Everest Weather Window Looks Good Heading into Weekend

It is go time on Everest at long last. Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, and the rest of the crew are now on their summit push with a favorable weather forecast heading into the weekend. But conditions on Everest are fickle and since they are climbing without the use of supplemental oxygen, this ascent into extremely cold temperatures is far from a sure thing. Still, this is the opportunity that Alex has been waiting two years for, and it looks like it will be now or never on the world's tallest mountain. 

As we reported yesterday, the team launched its summit bid mid-week and was already in Camp 2. Their last update indicated that they were still there at 6400 meters (20,997 ft) preparing to move up. They may already have moved to Camp 3, but haven't updated their status yet, which would put them in position to climb to C4 with an eye on summiting on Sunday morning. This is all according to plan, as Alex predicted that the final summit push would happen on either Saturday or Sunday. Exactly when they'll make the ascent remains to be seen. 

Alan Arnette has had a look at the forecasts – courtesy of EverestWeather.com – and says that winds are expected to subside both Saturday morning and Sunday morning, which means the team will be climbing throughout the night to take advantage of those conditions. Alan also points out they are on a typical schedule for a spring expedition to the South Side of the mountain, with Alex and company not feeling a particular need to rush things. 

While conditions do look good and the stage is set for this dramatic climb to unfold, keep in mind that the weather can shift quickly in the Himalaya. With the jet stream on the summit dying down in the mornings, this is a fairly narrow weather window. On top of that, a true winter ascent of the mountain – meaning the expedition took place entirely in the winter season – is a rare feat, let alone doing it without the use of oxygen. Alex and Ali Sadpara are both experienced climbers who will no doubt take every precaution, but this will be a struggle even with the weather conditions in their favor. 

We'll keep a close eye on the proceedings and bring you an update when when know more. Alex has said this will be the one and only summit bid, so lets hope everyone gets up and down safely, regardless of whether or not they reach the top. 

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Winter Climbs 2018: Summit Bid Begins on Everest

The moment we've all been waiting for has finally arrived on Everest. After months of planning and weeks of preparation on the mountain, Alex Txikon, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, and the rest of the team have launched a summit bid on Everest, and things are already going well. But, as with all things involving the highest mountain on the planet, it won't be an easy ascent.

The attempt on the summit – the first so far this season – got underway yesterday with the Alex and company reaching Camp 2 in a single push. They'll likely move up to C3 today and be in their final position tomorrow for a potential push to the top on Saturday or Sunday (February 24/25) of this week.

The forecast calls for a good weather window over the next few days. That is a relative forecast of course, this being winter in the Himalaya. Temperatures on the summit are expected to hover around -40ºF/C, with windchills approaching -80ºF/-62ºC. In other words, it will be brutally cold on the way up, and remember Alex is attempting this summit without the use of supplemental oxygen.

In a post on Facebook Alex has called this the "first and last chance to get to the summit of Everest," indicating that he expects this to be their only real chance at topping out this winter. With about a month to go yet before the end of the season, I would have expected the team to at least consider a second summit bid should they not make it this time. But, it has been a long couple of months on the mountain and the entire squad is probably ready to get the expedition over with. Hopefully that means they'll come home with their mission completed.
Meanwhile, over on K2 the Polish Ice Warriors have posted a short and sweet message about their current status. The entire team is now in Base Camp where they are resting and recovering from recent efforts. The group has now gone as high as 7200 meters (23,622 ft) in their acclimatization and gear shuttling efforts. They'll now spend a few days regaining some strength before launching the next phase of the expedition, which looks to make the first winter ascent of the mountain.

Finally, fresh off of his failed-attempt on Mt. Lucania with Pascale Marceau, Lonnie Dupre has announced he is about to embark on a late winter solo attempt on Mt. Hunter in Alaska. The peak was first climbed in winter back in 1980, but no one has managed to solo it during that season just yet. Dupre himself made an attempt last year, but was turned back on that expedition too. Now, he's returning to the 4441-meter (14,573-ft) peak to give it another go.

Hunter is considered one of the more challenging and technically demanding 14ers in North America.  This is especially true during the winter when high winds, deep snow, and brutally cold temperatures add to the equation. Durpre says he'll head to the mountain in the final week of February and will begin by first shuttling gear up the first 450 meters (1500 feet) to create and advanced base camp not he mountain. When the forecast gives him a good window, he'll launch a week-long, ultra-light push to the top. No doubt the plan is to sleep in snow caves like he did on his solo summit of Denali a few years back.

The entire expedition, which is dubbed "Cold Hunter One," is expected to take just 15 days to complete.

We'll of course keep an eye on all of these climbs as they continue to unfold.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Continued Progress on K2, Still Waiting on Everest with One Month to Go

It will be an unusual week here at The Adventure Blog in terms of updates. I'm on the road a couple of days and then leave the country on Friday. But until then, we'll share any news we can on what's happening in the outdoor world of exploration and adventure, including the ongoing winter expeditions that we've been following on K2 and Everest, where one team is making steady progress, while the other continues to wait.

On K2, the Polish Ice Warriors are continuing to take what the mountain gives them and are slowly and steadily working their way upward. In the latest update on the expedition it was revealed that Adam Bielecki and Denis Urubko have now established camp at 7200 meters (23,622 ft), while other teammates are following behind in regular rotations. The entire squad continues to work on acclimatization and are shuttling gear and supplies up the mountain.

After making the change to the Abruzzi Route the team has had to reinstall fixed ropes and redo some of the work they had already done elsewhere. But, as of today, they still have one month to go to complete the first winter ascent of K2, so there is still plenty of time for them to put everything together, adjust to the altitude, and look for a weather window. But in another week or two, things will start to get tight, so making steady progress is important. Weather will ultimately dictate the final schedule, but the team is putting in the work to get them into the right position to potentially have a shot at reaching the top.

Meanwhile, over on Everest, Alex Txikon and crew continue to wait. High winds further up the mountain are preventing them from making a summit push. The team is ready to go but need a proper window that stays open for several days, before they can leave Base Camp. Some forecasts predicted that would happen early this week, but for now conditions have not improved enough to allow them to go up.

While in BC thins aren't completely without incident. Yesterday, Alex posted the video below on Facebook showing an avalanche that occurred above camp. These happen all the time and aren't dangerous provided you're not close to them, but the noise keeps everyone on their toes and watching the glacier above them.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Is it Almost Go Time on Everest?

Since our last update on the winter climbs there hasn't been a whole lot of progress, but the future schedule is starting to become a bit clearer. Meanwhile, over on K2, things remain contentious, with one member of the team clearly unhappy with the current situation.

We'll start in Nepal, where Alex Txikon and his team have been relaxing and waiting in Base Camp. Everyone seems to be in good spirits while they watch the weather forecasts for an opportunity to make a summit push. Currently there is a projected weather window that could come next week on February 20, which means that everyone could be on the move as early as tomorrow to get themselves into position for a dash to the summit. The weather models predict that the wind speeds will die down at last, granting access to the top.

Of course, Alex, Ali Sadpara, and the rest of the squad will carefully pour over the data to ensure that it is safe to make the ascent, otherwise they'll just end up wasting energy. But, if there is a chance that they could complete the climb, it seems like they are poised to do so. Remember, the Basque climber will be going up without the use of supplemental oxygen, so this winter climb is far from a sure thing.

Over on K2, the Polish Ice Warriors continue their work on the Abruzzi Route. According to reports, Denis Urubko has now been as high as 6500 meters (21,325 ft) before being forced back down due to poor weather. The team has shuttled gear up to their new campsites but are now forced to stay in Base Camp while they wait for their next opportunity, which coincidentally could come on February 20 as well.

Perhaps the biggest challenge for the Poles at the moment is team unity. Urubko continues to criticize his teammates, the group's leadership, and even their selection of a climbing route. As usual, he seems like the strongest climber in the group, and has been shouldering much of the work up high, but he also hasn't held back in his critique of how things are going either, taking shots at the other climbers for things like not properly hydrating or assisting with the fixing of ropes. This discord can't be good for morale and could eventually lead to issues between the men. On the other hand, Urubko might be the team's best chance for getting to the summit, so it is a fine line to walk for sure.

We'll continue to keep an eye on things to see how they develop. Right now, the weather is keeping everyone in place, but it seems we're on the verge of summit bids on Everest, and possibly K2 as well. There are still four more weeks of winter to go however, so there is time for both teams to be patient and wait for the right opportunity.

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What it Takes to Start a New Guide Service on Everest

If you follow the climbing season on Everest, you probably know most of the companies that guide there by name. Himalayan Experience, International Mountain Guides, Altitude Junkies, and others are practically household names within the mountaineering community. It can be extremely challenging for a new company to break into that world where the risks on the mountain equal those of starting a new business. But this year, a operator will launch in the Himalaya and Alan Arnette recently had the chance to find out just what it takes to start a new guide service on Everest.

The new company is called Climbing the Seven Summits, and as its name indicates, it will help clients climb the tallest peaks in the world. In its inaugural year, CTSS will offer expeditions to Denali, Elbrus, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Vinson, Cho Oyu, and of course Everest. This new operator was founded by professional mountain guide Mike Hamill, who has been a lead guide for IMG for years, heading up their private 1-on-1 expeditions. Now, he's decided to try his hand at running his own company.

In the interview he discusses why he made that decision, the logistics of launching a new guide service, and the challenges that lie ahead for CTSS. He also shares information about his background, how he got started in the business, and how he found time to write a book dedicated to climbing the Seven Summit. Mike also shares stories of the company's first expedition, talks about the competition that all operators face on the Seven Summits, and what it is like to be a guide, launch a new business, and be newly married at the same time. He even tells us which of the Seven are his favorite.

The interview is a good one not just to hear Mike's personal story but for insights into the challenging business of leading clients up big mountains all over the world. At a time when the big operators are seeing increased pressure from smaller, low-budget companies in the Himalaya, it can be a risky proposition to launch a new venture such as this one. But Hamill's reputation is stellar and he is positioning his company to be the authority on climbing the highest peaks on all the continents.

We wish him the best of luck. Hopefully we'll be hearing about CTSS for many years to come.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Poles Make a Change on K2, Summit in Siberia

While it has only been a couple of days since I posted my last update on the major winter expeditions that we've been following so far this year. There has been a steady stream of news over the weekend that makes it worth of yet another update. Things are happening quickly right now, and the fate of these climbs is hanging in the balance.

On K2, the Polish Ice Warriors team has made the jump from the Česen Route over to the Abruzzi after yet another climber suffered an injury, this time serious enough to send him home. Last week, you'll recall, Adam Bielecki was struck by a falling rock, breaking his nose and opening a cut that required six stitches to heal. Over the weekend, Rafael Fronia also was hit be a falling rock, this time breaking his arm. This was enough of an injury to send him packing for home, and convince the team to switch to what they hope will be a safer route.

While conditions have been cold and windy on K2, there hasn't been a lot of snowfall, making rockslides much more common. Frozen snow and ice helps to keep that kind of debris in place, but a lack of it has created unsafe conditions. The hope is that the longer, less-steep climb up the Abruzzi will help mitigate some of these issues.

Meanwhile, the team has had some internal problems it seems as well. Denis Urubko posted some blistering thoughts about the progress so far, blasting his teammates to a degree. Urubko took umbrage with the fact that he was the only one installing ropes at higher altitude, and was critical of the other climbers for not staying hydrated and using their cooking stoves inside tents that aren't ventilated properly. Are these messages signs of discontent amongst the group or just his frustration on the lack of progress thus far? We'll have to wait to see, but perhaps the change of route will be good for morale all around.

Over on Everest, the Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, and the rest of the team continue to wait out the winds. Conditions high on the mountain are expected to improve early this week and they are tentatively planning a summit push once the forecast indicates better weather. For now though, there isn't much to do but rest, watch the skies, and prepare for the work yet to come. With 5 weeks of winter still on the calendar, they can afford to be patient.

Finally, there is new of a successful summit in Siberia. Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have reached the top of Pik Pobeda, a remote mountain located in the Chersky Range. The peak is just 3003 meters (9852 ft) in height, but it is located an a bitterly cold location. Last week, prior to launching their summit bid, temperatures were hovering around -40ºC/F, with winds making it feel even colder than that. Despite those conditions however, the duo were able to top out over the weekend, logging the first winter ascent of this mountain.

That's all for now. More updates soon.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Injury on K2, Summit Bid Scheduled for Everest

It seems the news from the two big winter expeditions that we've been following is coming at a fast pace. Just when you think there isn't much new to share, suddenly their is an update that brings important information. Such is the case for both K2 and Everest, where things are progressing nicely.

We'll start on K2 where the Polish Ice Warrior team continues to make slow but steady progress. They aren't particularly close to launching a summit bid, but with more than a month to go in the winter season, they still have plenty of time.

But, the team did have quite a scare this week when a large rock tumbled down the slope and hit Adam Bielecki in the face, breaking his nose and tearing a large gash in the process. Teammates Piotr Tomala and Marek Chmielarski performed emergency surgery in Base Camp, where Bielecki received six stitches after being helped down by two high altitude porters. He is not in any danger however, and will resume climbing after resting for a few days.

The rest of the team has continued with its regularly scheduled acclimation rotations, with several members now having spent the night at Camp 2 to allow their bodies to become accustomed to the altitude. The winds have been remained fairly light, at least below 6500 meters (21,325 ft) so far, although snow seems to be falling steadily on most days. How that will impact things as the team goes higher has yet to be seen, but for now things are going according to plan.

Over on Everest, Alex Txikon and Muhammad Ali Sadpara are starting to see their schedule firm up as well. The squad has been in Base Camp after climbing as high as 7850 meters (25,754 ft), poor weather forced them back down to BC where they have been waiting for things to improve for the past week or so. High winds and heavy snow have kept them in place, but things may be improving.

To make matters worse, sections of the Khumbu Icefall have collapsed as well, forcing the team to repair the route they are using through that treacherous section of the mountain. For now, things seem to be holding, but it is a good reminder that the icefall is extremely dangerous, even during the more frigid months of the year.

Conditions are expected to get much better starting this weekend however, which could clear the path for them to go back up next week. In fact, Ali Sadpara has said as much on Facebook indicating that they hope to make a summit push next week. We'll have to wait to see if the summit window actually opens, but for now things are looking optimistic.

Elsewhere, the Pakistani team making the first winter ascent of Mashbrum II has called it quits after finding too much snow on the route. It was making the climb without much funding or resources, and the conditions were just too much for them to overcome. The team is already on its way home.

Finally, there has been an update from Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger, who are attempting to climb the 3003 meter (9852 ft) Pik Pobeda located in the Chersky Range of Siberia. The duo have been on the mountain for awhile now and have established Base Camp and Camp 1. They indicate that there is a lot of snow there and temperatures are hovering around -45ºC/-49ºF, with strong winds.

That's all for now. More updates soon I'm sure.

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China and Nepal are Battling it Out for the Future of Everest

Last week I wrote a story about how evolving politics and climate change are having an impact on expeditions to Everest. That post was prompted by an article from Channel Newsasia, which examined a potentially growing trends of mountaineering operators choosing to head north into Tibet rather than staying in Nepal. Now, another article is taking a closer look at what could be a mounting battle between the two nations to see who will lure climbers to the world's highest peak in the future.

This week's article comes our way courtesy of Men's Journal, which has been knocking it out of the park lately with its adventure coverage. This story takes a closer look at how China and Nepal are squaring off with one another to see which of them will play the most prominent role in the direction that Everest will go in the years ahead.

On the one hand, you have the traditional South Side climb in Nepal, which has been the most trafficked route on the mountain for decades. Most climbers go there because they know what to expect, it has been a stable environment for years, and while there are some annoyances and bureaucratic issues to contend with, it is generally a known quantity.

In contrast to this, China has shut its borders on multiple occasions and has tightly controlled access to Base Camp for some time. But, that is changing quickly, and the country is investing heavily in infrastructure – including a new climbing school. Chinese and Tibetan officials of underscored the fact that they are focused on making the North Side much safer and accommodating to climbers.  That includes launching a helicopter rescue service by the 2019 season, matching the one that has been active in Nepal for some time.

Like the previous article that I linked to, this one also quotes Alpenglow Expeditions leader Adrian Ballinger, who moved his operations to the North Side three years back. This year, the Altitude Junkies are following suit, and is seems others could join them. And while this isn't likely to be a major shift that takes place in just a year or so, the days of simply going to Nepal to climb seem to be nearly over. China is prepared to offer real competition, and considering some of the dubious choices and actions by the Nepali government over the past few years, their stronghold on Everest could soon be coming to an end.

Check out MJ's full story here.

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Nepal's Climbing Sherpas Are Finally Getting Their Summit Certificates

Amidst all of the controversy surrounding the new climbing regulations passed by the Nepali Council of Ministers late last year, there was one bright spot. Those new rules indicated that the climbing Sherpas who accompanied their clients to the summit of Everest or other major peaks, would at long last get climbing certificates that would make their accomplishments official. Now, the Department of Tourism, which oversees climbing operations, is starting to make good on that promise.

According to The Himalayan Times, more than 500 Nepali mountain guides who successfully reached the summit of a climbing mountain (as opposed to a trekking mountain) over the past two years can now apply to receive their certificates. Since 2015, the government had been refusing to issue such certificates citing a clause in the mountaineering regulations. That clause has now been removed, clearing the way to start issuing the official documents once again.

Prior to 2015, all Sherpa guides received summit certificates just like their foreign clients. But, for some reason the Nepali government changed the rules that year, and there haven't been any certificates issued since then. As you can imagine, this was a source of irritation for the Sherpas, who are instrumental in almost all mountaineering operations in the Himalaya. The failure to prove the documents soon became a source of contention between the ruling ministers and the guides, which was thankfully addressed in these new regulations.

The new rules will impact Sirdars (head Sherpa guides), mountain guides, and high-altitude workers, who reach the summit of the mountains that they are climbing, including Everest. Earning such a certificate has always been a tremendous source of pride for the Sherpas who are the backbone of most expeditions. Now, they'll finally be getting their proper credit once again.

I don't agree with most of the new regulations that Nepal put into place, but I'm happy to see this one was included in the changes. The summit certificates are much deserved. I don't say it often, but well done Nepal.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Poles Reunited on K2

While most of us in the U.S. gathered around our television sets to watch the Big Game yesterday, the winter mountaineering expeditions that we've been following closely over the past month or so continued to work towards their goals. As usual, weather is the biggest stumbling block at the moment, although the squads on K2 and Everest are extremely happy with the way things are progressing.

We'll start in Pakistan, where the Polish Ice Warriors have reunited on K2. You'll recall that several members of the team left Base Camp last week to assist in the rescue of Elisabeth Revol on Nanga Parbat. After getting her back down the mountain safely, they accompanied her to Islamabad before catching a flight out to Skardu where they could then return to BC. But weather kept them grounded for several days, preventing them from getting back to the work at hand. Late last week however, things cleared up just long enough to allow the entire team to gather together once again and resume their efforts to make the first winter ascent of K2.

The team didn't waste and time in getting back to work either. Well rested after a few days off the mountain, and with a weather window to take advantage of, Denis Urubko and Marcin Kaczkan immediately went up the mountain and have now spent the night in both Camp 1 and 2. That helps to maintain their acclimatization efforts as they look to go higher soon. Depending on the weather conditions, they may even proceed up the peak tomorrow, looking to establish C3 and possibly even spend the night there as well.

In other words, things are back to "normal" on K2.

Meanwhile, over on Everest, Alex Txikon and company have been stuck in Base Camp for a few days. High winds have blasted onto the mountain, keeping them from climbing any higher for now. The team was likely ready for a break, so this weather front may have come at a good time. Last week they reached 7850 meters (25,754 ft) and have been climbing ahead of schedule for the entire season. A bit of down time in BC will allow them to rest, recharge their batteries, and get ready for the next push up the mountain. I would imagine they'd like to establish a camp above 8000 meters, and maybe spend some time acclimatizing above that altitude before making plans for a summit attempt.

Remember, this isn't just about climbing Everest during the winter, which is a pretty impressive feat in its own right. Alex is hoping to summit without the use of bottled oxygen as well, making this truly an expedition for the ages. Technically, there has only ever been one another true winter expedition to Everest, and only one person has ever topped out without oxygen as well. If he is successful, it will be one of the most impressive feats on Everest in recent memory, if not ever.

That's it for now. I'll continue to keep an eye on things on both of these major expeditions and post updates when there is important news to share.

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Will Politics and Climate Change Cause More Climbers to Head to the North Side of Everest?

The next few years could be a tipping point on Mt. Everest, with potentially more climbers heading to the North Side in Tibet rather than tackling the traditional route up the South Col in Nepal. That's the  assertion of a new article posted online yesterday, which points to politics, overcrowding, and climate change as reasons why mountaineers could abandon the South Side over the next few years.

The article notes that several high profile expedition operators – including Alpenglow and Altitude Junkies – have already made the transition to the North Side, and more are expected to follow. Part of that exodus is a result of increased competition on the Nepali side of the mountain, where low-cost operators are bringing larger and larger groups to Base Camp. That has resulted in overcrowding and more inexperienced climbers on the mountain. That trend doesn't look to end soon either, with interest in climbing the world's highest peak on the rise.

On top of that, the political situation in Nepal has made it more challenging for some climbers to attempt Everest. Recent changes to the rules have forbidden disabled or "medically unfit" alpinists from even attempting the climb, with new regulations also banning solo attempts as well. While those may seem like good rules to have in place, it has brought a level of instability and uncertainty to the mountaineering scene there, while also arbitrarily banning climbers who may are perfectly prepared to take on the challenges. This has left some of those climbers to switch to the North Side already, with more expected to follow.

Beyond that however, there is the issue with crossing through the Khumbu Icefall. This section of the climb from the Nepali side has always been challenging and dangerous, but climate change is increasing the hazards dramatically. As temperatures warm, the icefall becomes more unstable, making it not only harder to maintain a safe route through the seracs and crevasses, but also far more likely to collapse, claiming lives in the process. And while the North Side offers its share of technical challenges, it doesn't have anything quite like the icefall to contend with.


The article does note that Tibet took a hit to its credibility back in 2008 when the Chinese government closed the North Side to take the Olympic torch to the summit. That move came swiftly and without much warning, ending several expeditions abruptly. The closure was widely seen as a way to prevent embarrassing protests from being captured by the media or foreign visitors in a time when China was preparing for its modern coming out party.

Since then however, things have been much more stable and open. The country even hires a professional team of climbers to install the ropes to the summit each year, allowing expeditions to worry about other logistical concerns instead. That doesn't happen on the South Side, where a loose association of operators band together to split the workload of installing the lines.

It is for all of these reasons that we could start to see a movement by guide services to the North Side in the years to come. The article does point out however that a growing number of Indian and Chinese climbers are flocking to Everest, with many still going to Nepal to climb. Indians prefer to South Side because of the cultural similarities and close proximity to home, while some Chinese climbers go to Nepal because the government there doesn't require they climb another 8000-meter peak first. In other words, it doesn't look like Nepal's hegemony on Everest will necessarily come to a complete end, but more and more operators are seeing a viable alternative that is safer and more approachable.

Check out the entire story here.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Everest Team Nears 8000 Meters, It's Over on Mt. Lucania

We've got more news today from the big winter expeditions that we've been following this year, some good, some not so good. And as the season progresses, we're reminded why this is the toughest, most demanding, and brutal season of all.

We'll start with an update from Everest, where when we last checked in the team was heading up to Camp 3 for a night to continue their acclimatization process. That plan went well, and the following day Alex Txikon and company continued upward to 7850 meters (25,754 ft) before turning back. It seems that they could have potentially gone up to Camp 4 above 8000 meters (26,246 ft), but one of the climbers started to feel under the weather and the high winds began to move into the area. At that point, the squad decided that they had done enough this week, and proceeded back down the mountain. At the moment, they are all gathered back in Base Camp, where they will rest, recuperate, and watch the weather forecast before deciding when they'll head back up again.

Meanwhile, over on K2, the Polish Ice Warrior team isn't waiting around for their compatriot to rejoin them before heading back up the mountain. Several members of the group were involved in the rescue operation that helped bring Elisabeth Revol safely down the mountain, and those climbers are still in Skardu awaiting improved weather to catch a helicopter flight back to BC. In the meantime, two other members of the squad – Artur Malek and Merek Chmielarski – have set off today back up to Camp 1 to check the status of their ropes and gear.

Once the entire team is reunited and back to full strength, they'll continue their regular climbing operations. The next goal will be to establish Camp 3 somewhere around the 7000 meter (22,965 ft) mark. Before that can happen however, the weather will first have to allow the climbers in Skardu to return to BC, and then stay calm enough to allow them to resume shuttling gear up the Česen Route. It could be a few days yet before those things happen.

Finally, we get the disappointing news today that Lonnie Dupre and Pascale Marceau have pulled the plug on their attempt to climb Mt. Lucania in Canada. Conditions have been difficult from the start on this expedition, and they were made worse when the duo couldn't be dropped off at their preferred starting point due to poor conditions. That meant they had to manhaul their sleds further than they had planned, leaving them exhausted before they ever made camp. After that, they discovered the route they had intended to take up the mountain was impassable, and to make matters worse, the high winds and extreme cold made it impossible to get warm, even in their sleeping bags inside a tent each night.

So, with all of that in mind, Dupre and Marceau have skied back to their pick-up point and are waiting for a plane to pick them up. The weather will dictate when exactly that will happen, but they could be retrieved as early as today.

There are a couple of other winter expeditions that are ongoing, although we've had few updates from so far. For instance, according to Alan Arnette, Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have only now just arrived on Pik Pobeda in remote Northern Siberia, while ah team of Pakistani climbers has set its sights on Masherbrum II. There have been few dispatches on either squad to know if they have made much progress however.

For now, we'll continue watching Everest and K2 to see how things progress.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Camp 3 on Everest, K2 Team in Skardu

The tragic events on Nanga Parbat have dominated the mountaineering news cycle over the past few days, leaving most of us on the edge of our seat as we watched those events unfold. With the outcome now revealed, it is time to get back to climbing and we have updates from the major expeditions currently underway.

We'll start on Everest, where Alex Txikon and Muhammad Ali Sadpara reveal that they were also following the events on Nanga Parbat closely. Txikon had climbed with Tomak in the past and is no doubt feeling the loss deeply. But, he still has things that he needs to accomplish on the highest mountain on the planet, and the team continues to make good progress there.

Alex and company have now established Camp 3 on the mountain and spent last night in C2 as part of their acclimatization efforts. Today, they'll shuttle more gear up to Camp 3 and will spend the night there as well. After that, it will be back to Base Camp to rest and recuperate before deciding their next move. If a weather window comes, and the team is feeling strong, it is possible they could start to talk about summit bids. Alternatively, they could also look to establish Camp 4 before even thinking about going any higher. They still have plenty of time left in winter and there is no major rush, although they will have to take advantage of any weather windows that come their way. For now, the plan will be to wait and see what Everest offers them.

The members of the Polish team that assisted in the rescue operations on Nanga Parbat are preparing to head back to K2 to resume their own expedition there. After helping get Elisabeth Revol down the mountain and back to Islamabad, the squad has now gathered in Skardu where they are waiting for the weather to improve before going back to Base Camp. That could take a few days but they are committed to resuming their attempt to become the first to summit K2 in winter, despite the effort they just put in as part of the search and rescue team.

Finally, Lonnie Dupre and Pascale Marceau are finding it tough going on Mt. Lucania in Canada. The duo have been tentbound for the past two days with high winds preventing them from climbing higher up the mountain. They are currently camped at 12,000 feet (3673 meters) while 40 mph (64km/h) winds whip outside their shelter. Wind chills have dropped the temperature to roughly -42ºF/C, making it dangerous to be outside in those condition.

The plan is to wait out the storm, and drop down to a safer location before reevaluating the situation and planning their approach to the summit. At 17,257 feet (5259 meters) in height, Lucania doesn't push climbers with its altitude. Instead, it offers technical challenges and difficult weather instead, which is exactly what Lonnie and Pascale are feeling at the moment.

That's all for today. I'll post more updates when there is news to share.

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Miss Elizabeth Hawley Has Passed Away

Sad news out of Kathmandu today where it was announced that Miss Elizabeth Hawley, the legendary chronicler of climbing in the Himalaya has passed away at the age of 94. While she never climbed a single mountain, her shadow loomed large over the mountaineering scene as she served as the historian who recorded every climbing expedition to Nepal and Tibet for the past 58 years.

Miss Hawley travels to Nepal back in 1960 and essentially fell in love with the place, and never wen back home. A journalist by trade, she began covering mountaineering expeditions and soon became the authority on climbing on Everest and other major peaks.

In recent years, Hawley turned over the maintenance of her Himalayan Database to a team of supporters, but still remained very active in the process. For decades climbers made a pilgrimage to visit her to discuss their climbs, and often she was the faint arbiter of whether or not the expedition was actually successful. Tales of her intense inquiries were well known and often shared around the campfire with climbers who admitted to being intimidated by the diminutive reporter.

It is impossible to overstate her contribution to the mountaineering community. Our hearts go out to her friends and family. Condolences on this loss.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Summit Bid on Nanga Parbat, Updates From K2 and Everest

More new from the major winter climbing expeditions this season with progress on just about every front. Lets get into the latest updates from all over.

We'll start today on Nagna Parbat, where it appears that Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisbeth Revol are preparing to make an attempt on the summit. The duo arrived on the mountain just after Christmas, and have been acclimatizing there ever since, but for the past two weeks they've been bogged down with high winds. Yesterday, those winds subsided at last, and they now report good conditions. After making a gear deposit at 6700 meters (21,981 ft), they now report that they are going for the summit.

If they launched that bid yesterday, and everything goes exactly right, they may top out as early as Sunday or Monday of this coming week. It is a tough ascent, and snow and ice don't make it any easier, but it is definitely possible for them to complete the climb in that time frame depending on the conditions. In winter however, deep snow could slow their progress. For now, we'll just have to wait and hope that the weather window stays open long enough for them to reach the summit.

Over on K2, the winds have died down as well. The Polish Ice Warrior team had expected conditions to be bad for several more days at the least, but the weather has improved dramatically. This has allowed them to begin sending gear up to their first campsite, which will actually be in what is traditionally C2, located at 6200 meters (20,341 ft).


After scouting the mountain and having a look at the conditions there, the team has elected to try the Česen Route rather than the Abruzzi. As Alan Arnette reports, this is a steeper route, but has some serious advantage, namely it will allow the strong Polish climbers to cover more ground at a faster pace. It also avoids some of the more technical rock climbing sections that can slow climbers down tremendously.

Finally, the Everest winter team of Alex Txikon and Muhammad Ali Sadpara have left Base Camp, but aren't heading back up the mountain. Instead, they'll jump over to nearby Pumori for some much needed acclimatization before going higher on the Big Hill. The reason for the shift is to avoid going through the dangerous Khumbu Icefall too often. On Pumori they can go up and down the mountain much more safely, at least to Camp 2. Higher than that they run the risk of serious avalanches, although I haven't seen a report on the snow conditions on that mountain this season, so it is possible they will head up to the summit if it is safe to do so.

After they've done a few acclimatization rotations on Pumori, they'll head back to Everest and resume their operations there. For now though, they're content with getting their bodies ready for higher altitude on a generally safer peak.

More to come soon.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Camp 2 on Everest, Stalled Out on K2

The major mountaineering expeditions that we're following this winter seem to have updates on an almost daily basis at the moment. That's a bit unusual considering the weather can often cause them to stall out for extended periods of time. But, there is news on several fronts with progress being made.

On K2, the Polish team reports that two of the members of the team have now gone up to 5900 meters (19,356 ft) and returned safely to Base Camp. Their jaunt up the mountain was meant to scout the route, and they discovered that there was little protection from the elements to be had in their intended spot for Camp 1, so instead they will set things up at 6200 meters (20,341 ft) instead.

The plan is to start shuttling gear to that spot in the coming days, but high winds are expected to hit the mountain soon, which will leave them tentbound in BC while they wait for things to improve. After that, they'll continue their acclimatization and gear shuttling efforts.

While the Poles sit and wait for the weather to improve, Alex Txikon continues to make good progress over on Everest. After spending the night at Camp 1 on Sunday, the following day he and one of the Sherpas made their first foray up to Camp 2 at 6500 meters (21,325 ft). Right now, the expedition is running well ahead of schedule, shaving off several days from the timetable that was used last year.

Alex, climbing partner Ali Sadpara, and the Sherpa support team have taken advantage of a good weather window to get plenty of work done on the mountain, including shuttling 600 meters of rope up to C2. They are currently back in Base Camp and resting up, with the Basque mountaineer reporting that high winds hit Everest while they were on their descent, so it could be a few days before they head back up again.


Finally, after a few delays due to poor weather conditions, Lonnie Dupre and Pascale Marceau should be ready to fly out to their starting point today. They've set their sights on Mt. Lucania, located in the St. Elias Range in a remote area of the Canadian Yukon. At 5240 meters (17,192 ft) in height, it is the third highest peak in Canada. What makes it so intriguing is the extreme cold they'll face on the way to the top.

High winds and cold temperatures kept the duo's flight grounded for the past few days, but conditions have improved enough to allow them to get started today. The'll be dropped off at a safe landing zone, then ski to the mountain, pulling sleds filled with gear behind them as they go. Those sleds will have about 100 pounds (45 kg) of supplies and gear to help get them through this expedition.

Stay tuned for more updates as the season continues to unfold.

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Disabled Climber Delays Attempt on Everest in Wake of Nepal Climbing Ban

This past fall I shared the inspiring story of Hari Budha Magar, a former Ghurka soldier who lost both of his legs in combat in Afghanistan. Determined to not let that stop him from pursuing his goals however, Magar not only summited Mera Peak a few months back, he also set his sights on attempting Everest this spring too. Now, thanks to the strict new climbing rules passed by the Nepali government, he is being forced to postpone his expedition.

According to the Himalayan Times, Magar and his team have decided to delay their attempt on Everest until 2019. This shift in date will allow them to better organize the climb, give Hari more of a chance to hone his mountaineering skills, and plan the climb more fully. They also hope to petition the Nepali government to give the former Ghurka a permit to attempt the mountain.

In December, the Nepali Council of Ministers voted to ban blind climbers, double-amputees, and those deemed "medically unfit" from climbing on the South Side of the mountain. Those same regulations also now forbid solo climbs as well. These new guidelines have been met with sharp criticism as they seem to be aimed at a very small subset of climbers that don't really need protection. The fatality rate amongst disabled mountaineers is extremely low, in large part because they are well supervised throughout every phase of their climb.

In a statement announcing the postponement of his climb, Magar and his squad say that they agree with the government's efforts to make Everest safer, but those efforts should be aimed at those who are not properly prepared to be on the mountain. They argue that it shouldn't matter whether they are able bodied or disabled in any way, it should instead come down to their level of skill, experience, and preparation.

It is quite possible that Magar and his team will leave the South Side of Everest and head to the North Side instead. So far, the Chinese officials that oversee climbing operations in Tibet have not indicated that they will institute a similar ban on disabled climbers there. It is possible that Hari and his team will try to first resolve this issue with Nepal, but if those efforts fail, they'll head north instead.

This seems to be a story that continues to evolve at a steady pace right now. I'm sure we haven't heard the last of it.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Teams Reach Camp 1 on Everest and K2

Despite the fact that the winter climbing season is really just getting underway in the Himalaya and Karakoram, good progress is already being made by the teams on both Everest and K2. The squads on those mountains have taken advantage of good conditions and have spent little time in Base Camp before heading up to Camp 1.

Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, and their support team have already been very busy on Everest. Not only did they shuttle their first gear loads up to C1 by Thursday of last week but today they'll be spending the night at that spot as they truly begin their acclimatization process. It took the team just four days to finish the route through the Khumbu Icefall, which is a pretty impressive accomplishment to say the least. Remember, during the spring climbing season on Everest, there is a whole team of Sherpas who handle those duties.

So far, Alex and his crew are ahead of last year's schedule. It has taken a lot of work for each man to carry loads as heavy as 35 kilos (77 pounds) up the slopes to the C1 campsite, but as of now they have finished that process about five days faster than they did last year. There is obviously still a lot of work to be done for the Basque mountaineer to claim his no-oxygen winter ascent, but things are definitely off to a good start.

Meanwhile, the Poles are also making good headway in their efforts on K2. As of today, they have not only established Base Camp on that mountain, but they have also set up their communications systems to share progress with the rest of the world too. Apparently they haven't been resting on their laurels since arriving in BC last week either, as they have already climbed as high as 5700 meters (18,700 ft) while scouting the route and acclimatizing. Tomorrow they will make their first foray up to 5900 meters (19,356 ft) to begin shuttle gear to create Camp 1 at that point as well.

Finally, Lonnie Dupre and climbing partner Pascale Marceau have delayed the start of their climb on Mt. Lucania in Canada after the weather took a turn for the worse. The mountain is currently experiencing temperatures that are hovering around -40ºC/F with the windchill and windspeed in the 45+ km/h (27 mph) range. Those speeds are down from as much as 110 km/h (68 mph) over the weekend, but things should improve further over the next few days. They hope to get a good window for their flight to the mountain where they can finally get underway.

Stay tuned for more updates as the season continues to unfold.

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