Winter Climbs 2018: Everest and K2 Winter Expeditions Come to an End

While I was away last week there were massive developments in the two major climbing expeditions that we've been following closely this winter, with one coming to an end and the other losing its strongest climber after he went AWOL on the mountain. Today, we also received news that the winter expedition to K2 is ending as well, all but bringing an end to the winter climbing season.

We'll start on Everest where Alex Txikon has pulled the plug on his winter attempt without the use of supplemental oxygen. When last we checked in, the Basque alpinist, along with climbing partner Muhammad Ali Sadpara and a strong team of Sherpa guides, was heading upwards to make a summit bid with a narrow weather window opening last weekend. But, that window slammed shut and the team was forced to return to Base Camp.

Unfortunately, their climbing permit expired on February 28, and while it would have been relatively easy to extend its deadline, Txikon decided to head home instead. Sadapara and one of the Sherpas were forced to return to Kathmandu and the weather in the days ahead didn't look promising. Alex said it was a tough decision to make, but ultimately he knew it was the right one. The entire squad has left the mountain now.

Meanwhile, over on K2 things have been equally eventful. This morning the Polish Ice Warriors team  have announced that they are ending their attempt at the first winter ascent of that mountain due to a number of factors. After looking at the weather forecasts, team leader Krzysztof Wielicki found poor conditions throughout the month of March with only one narrow weather window to take a shot at the summit. He also cited avalanche dangers and deep snow on the upper flanks of the mountain, as well as the high likelihood that Camps 1, 2, and 3 have been destroyed by the current weather pattern. With the safety of the climbers in question, he has decided to go home, leaving K2 unclimbed in winter once again.


This comes after what can only be described as a tumultuous few days last week. That's when climber Denis Urubko went rogue, leaving the team and setting out on a solo summit bid. Urubko has been highly critical of Wielicki and his tactics, and has taken shots at his teammates who he didn't feel were climbing fast enough. In his defense, Urubko was clearly the strongest person on the team, and fixed most of the ropes himself. This led to frustration on his part, which boiled over several times, before coming to a head last week.

Without saying a word to Wielicki, Urubko left Base Camp and headed up the mountain with the intent of reaching the summit completely on his own. He managed to climb above C3 before poor weather turned him back, He then returned to BC where he reportedly was unapologetic. He was banned from using the team's Internet, and then later left altogether on February 28. He has yet to share more details on his side of the story.

Finally, Lonnie Dupre has also called off his attempt on Mt. Hunter in Alaska. He was set to make a solo winter attempt on that difficult mountain but heavy snow is preventing that from happening. The forecast calls for more than 6 feet (2 meters) of snow in the next few days, making it a very dangerous climb. Dupre says he will now wait until next winter to make the attempt once again.

That pretty much wraps up the winter climbing season altogether at this point. These were the last three expeditions I was following and I'm not aware of any other major climbs that are currently underway. Of course, in a few weeks we'll start looking ahead to the spring climbing season, which promises to be as eventful as ever.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Is it Almost Go Time on Everest?

Since our last update on the winter climbs there hasn't been a whole lot of progress, but the future schedule is starting to become a bit clearer. Meanwhile, over on K2, things remain contentious, with one member of the team clearly unhappy with the current situation.

We'll start in Nepal, where Alex Txikon and his team have been relaxing and waiting in Base Camp. Everyone seems to be in good spirits while they watch the weather forecasts for an opportunity to make a summit push. Currently there is a projected weather window that could come next week on February 20, which means that everyone could be on the move as early as tomorrow to get themselves into position for a dash to the summit. The weather models predict that the wind speeds will die down at last, granting access to the top.

Of course, Alex, Ali Sadpara, and the rest of the squad will carefully pour over the data to ensure that it is safe to make the ascent, otherwise they'll just end up wasting energy. But, if there is a chance that they could complete the climb, it seems like they are poised to do so. Remember, the Basque climber will be going up without the use of supplemental oxygen, so this winter climb is far from a sure thing.

Over on K2, the Polish Ice Warriors continue their work on the Abruzzi Route. According to reports, Denis Urubko has now been as high as 6500 meters (21,325 ft) before being forced back down due to poor weather. The team has shuttled gear up to their new campsites but are now forced to stay in Base Camp while they wait for their next opportunity, which coincidentally could come on February 20 as well.

Perhaps the biggest challenge for the Poles at the moment is team unity. Urubko continues to criticize his teammates, the group's leadership, and even their selection of a climbing route. As usual, he seems like the strongest climber in the group, and has been shouldering much of the work up high, but he also hasn't held back in his critique of how things are going either, taking shots at the other climbers for things like not properly hydrating or assisting with the fixing of ropes. This discord can't be good for morale and could eventually lead to issues between the men. On the other hand, Urubko might be the team's best chance for getting to the summit, so it is a fine line to walk for sure.

We'll continue to keep an eye on things to see how they develop. Right now, the weather is keeping everyone in place, but it seems we're on the verge of summit bids on Everest, and possibly K2 as well. There are still four more weeks of winter to go however, so there is time for both teams to be patient and wait for the right opportunity.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Poles Make a Change on K2, Summit in Siberia

While it has only been a couple of days since I posted my last update on the major winter expeditions that we've been following so far this year. There has been a steady stream of news over the weekend that makes it worth of yet another update. Things are happening quickly right now, and the fate of these climbs is hanging in the balance.

On K2, the Polish Ice Warriors team has made the jump from the Česen Route over to the Abruzzi after yet another climber suffered an injury, this time serious enough to send him home. Last week, you'll recall, Adam Bielecki was struck by a falling rock, breaking his nose and opening a cut that required six stitches to heal. Over the weekend, Rafael Fronia also was hit be a falling rock, this time breaking his arm. This was enough of an injury to send him packing for home, and convince the team to switch to what they hope will be a safer route.

While conditions have been cold and windy on K2, there hasn't been a lot of snowfall, making rockslides much more common. Frozen snow and ice helps to keep that kind of debris in place, but a lack of it has created unsafe conditions. The hope is that the longer, less-steep climb up the Abruzzi will help mitigate some of these issues.

Meanwhile, the team has had some internal problems it seems as well. Denis Urubko posted some blistering thoughts about the progress so far, blasting his teammates to a degree. Urubko took umbrage with the fact that he was the only one installing ropes at higher altitude, and was critical of the other climbers for not staying hydrated and using their cooking stoves inside tents that aren't ventilated properly. Are these messages signs of discontent amongst the group or just his frustration on the lack of progress thus far? We'll have to wait to see, but perhaps the change of route will be good for morale all around.

Over on Everest, the Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, and the rest of the team continue to wait out the winds. Conditions high on the mountain are expected to improve early this week and they are tentatively planning a summit push once the forecast indicates better weather. For now though, there isn't much to do but rest, watch the skies, and prepare for the work yet to come. With 5 weeks of winter still on the calendar, they can afford to be patient.

Finally, there is new of a successful summit in Siberia. Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have reached the top of Pik Pobeda, a remote mountain located in the Chersky Range. The peak is just 3003 meters (9852 ft) in height, but it is located an a bitterly cold location. Last week, prior to launching their summit bid, temperatures were hovering around -40ºC/F, with winds making it feel even colder than that. Despite those conditions however, the duo were able to top out over the weekend, logging the first winter ascent of this mountain.

That's all for now. More updates soon.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Poles Reunited on K2

While most of us in the U.S. gathered around our television sets to watch the Big Game yesterday, the winter mountaineering expeditions that we've been following closely over the past month or so continued to work towards their goals. As usual, weather is the biggest stumbling block at the moment, although the squads on K2 and Everest are extremely happy with the way things are progressing.

We'll start in Pakistan, where the Polish Ice Warriors have reunited on K2. You'll recall that several members of the team left Base Camp last week to assist in the rescue of Elisabeth Revol on Nanga Parbat. After getting her back down the mountain safely, they accompanied her to Islamabad before catching a flight out to Skardu where they could then return to BC. But weather kept them grounded for several days, preventing them from getting back to the work at hand. Late last week however, things cleared up just long enough to allow the entire team to gather together once again and resume their efforts to make the first winter ascent of K2.

The team didn't waste and time in getting back to work either. Well rested after a few days off the mountain, and with a weather window to take advantage of, Denis Urubko and Marcin Kaczkan immediately went up the mountain and have now spent the night in both Camp 1 and 2. That helps to maintain their acclimatization efforts as they look to go higher soon. Depending on the weather conditions, they may even proceed up the peak tomorrow, looking to establish C3 and possibly even spend the night there as well.

In other words, things are back to "normal" on K2.

Meanwhile, over on Everest, Alex Txikon and company have been stuck in Base Camp for a few days. High winds have blasted onto the mountain, keeping them from climbing any higher for now. The team was likely ready for a break, so this weather front may have come at a good time. Last week they reached 7850 meters (25,754 ft) and have been climbing ahead of schedule for the entire season. A bit of down time in BC will allow them to rest, recharge their batteries, and get ready for the next push up the mountain. I would imagine they'd like to establish a camp above 8000 meters, and maybe spend some time acclimatizing above that altitude before making plans for a summit attempt.

Remember, this isn't just about climbing Everest during the winter, which is a pretty impressive feat in its own right. Alex is hoping to summit without the use of bottled oxygen as well, making this truly an expedition for the ages. Technically, there has only ever been one another true winter expedition to Everest, and only one person has ever topped out without oxygen as well. If he is successful, it will be one of the most impressive feats on Everest in recent memory, if not ever.

That's it for now. I'll continue to keep an eye on things on both of these major expeditions and post updates when there is important news to share.

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Tomek Mackiewicz Perishes on Nanga Parbat Following Heroic Rescue Attempt

While I was away at Winter Outdoor Retailer last week, one of the biggest stories in recent memory from a mountaineering aspect was unfolding on Nanga Parbat. The massive peak known as "the Killer Mountain" amongst alpinist was the backdrop for a dramatic rescue attempt that left one climber dead, while rescuing another.

When last we checked in on the winter climbing expeditions, Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol were in Camp 3 on Nanga Parbat waiting out poor weather conditions. They had planned to move up to C4 later in the week and then make an attempt on the summit on Thursday or Friday. Unfortunately, things didn't go as planned and they found themselves in trouble when descending from the 8000-meter (26,246 ft) mark.

Eventually the duo were able to descent to 7400 meters (24,278 ft) where they huddled in the tent. It was at that point that Revol discovered that her climbing mate was suffering from severe frostbite and snow blindness. Eventually, Tomek would slip into unconsciousness as well, leaving the Frenchwoman to make what was probably the hardest decision of her life. With things looking very grim, she made a call to inform their support team to the situation and began descending the mountain on her own. She had no food or water and had been high on the mountain for several days.

When the Pakistani government received word of the situation they contacted the Polish team attempting the first winter ascent of K2 to see if they could help. The rescue operation was delayed due to poor weather, but on Friday Denis Urubko, Adam Bielecki, Piotr Tomala and Jarek Botor were picked up by helicopter in K2 Base Camp and flown to Nanga Parbat to launch a rescue operation.

Urubko and Bielecki were the tip of the spear in that operation, setting off at lighting quick speed to go up the mountain in an attempt to bring Tomek and Elisabeth down. They flew up the Kinshoffer Route covering an astounding 1250 meters (4101 ft) in seven and a half hours. That is an amazing pace considering how technical the route is and the fact that they were climbing at night.


Eventually, Denis and Adam were able to locate Elisabeth, but the weather began to deteriorate at a rapid rate and they were forced to turn back down. She was suffering from frostbite and hadn't had any water or food for more than two days. But, they were able to get her safely down from the mountain where she was taken by helicopter to Islamabad for medical attention. Unfortunately, the poor conditions prevented anyone from being able to climb up to Tomek's position, and the Polish climber is now believed to have died on the mountain.

One of the key aspects of this story is that the mountaineering community from around the world rallied together to raise the necessary funds to mount the rescue operation in the first place. Hiring a helicopter in Pakistan is not cheap or easy, and the Nanga Parbat expedition was a low-budget affair. But, when word of the situation reached the rest of the world, a fundraiser was launched to help with the process. That fundraiser is still going on, with the money now being directed to Tomek's wife and three children.

This is a sad story all around. Tomek has been obsessed with climbing Nanga Parbat for the better part of the past decade, spending seven winter seasons in his attempt to reach its summit. Finally he is at rest on the mountain that he had spent so much time trying to crack. Elisabeth reportedly has severe frostbite on three of her toes and is in a weakened state, but is otherwise in good condition. She will likely fly home in a few days time, although she will no doubt be haunted by the experience for years to come.

The Poles on K2 put up a heroic effort and will now return to Base Camp on that mountain as well. They'l resume their expedition there and will continue the pursuit of the first winter ascent of K2 in the days ahead.

Our condolences go out to Tomek's friends and family. It is a terrible loss and he will indeed be missed.

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Polish Team Prepares for Winter Ascent of K2

A few weeks back I took a look at some of the upcoming mountaineering expeditions scheduled to take place this coming winter. Chief amongst them was the Polish team that is targeting K2 this year, which as you know is the only 8000-meter peak that remains unclimbed during the winter season. Now, we're starting to get more details on this attempt, and it is safe to say that this team is incredibly serious about reaching the summit of the "Savage Mountain."

Alan Arnette has posted a story about the expedition, sharing some interesting insights into their approach to the climb. He notes that the squad will consist of Adam Bielecki, Marek Chmielarski, Rafał Fronia, Janusz Gołąb, Marcin Kaczkan, Artur Małek, Piotr Tomala, Jarosław Botor, Dariusz Załuski, and Denis Urubko. The team leader for the expedition famed Polish alpinist Krzysztof Wielicki, who is 67 years-old but comes with a wealth of experience. Wielicki lead the last Polish K2 attempt in 2003 and has summited all of the 8000-meter peaks without supplemental oxygen.

Unlike teams in the past who have arrived on the mountain on December 21 – the first day of winter – the Poles are planning on reaching Base Camp sometime after Christmas. They'll apparently be bringing a lot of gear and supplies with them, as the team reportedly has 600 kg (1322 pounds) of cargo that is being carried by porters, while they'll bring another 400 kg (881 pounds) themselves. Alan also reports that the Polish Ministry of Sport and Tourism is backing the winter attempt on K2 with $275,000 in funds as well.

The current plan is to make the attempt up the Česen Route, although the Poles haven't ruled out scouting the Abruzzi Route either. If conditions prove better on one of those paths as compared to the other, this gives them the flexibility to change course. As Alan points out, their biggest obstacle is likely to be the weather, which is extremely challenging even during the summer months. Cold temperatures, high winds, heavy snow, and unexpected avalanches have all conspired to keep previous winter attempts from reaching the summit, and this season will likely be no different.

At the moment, we're still several weeks away from the start of the expedition, but the team is now hurriedly putting their last minute plans together, preparing for journey to Pakistan, and the long weeks ahead of them in a cold and inhospitable place. This climb will not be easy and will test them from day 1, and of course we'll be following it closely in the days ahead. It should be a fascinating adventure to say the least.

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Winter Climbs 2014-2015: Chinese Deny Urubko and Company Climbing Permit for K2

The winter climbing season is set to officially get underway in just a few days, and as I write this, the teams that are planning major expeditions this year are busy putting the finishing touches on their plans. But one squad received bad news yesterday when they learned that the Chinese have denied them a permit to climb on K2 on the eve of their departure. Now, they are left wondering what they can do to salvage an expedition they have been planning for months.

One of the most interesting expeditions that was set to take place this winter was the attempt to complete the first ascent of K2 from the North Side of the mountain. The very experienced team of Denis Urubko, Adam Bilecki, and Alex Txikon were preparing to depart for China this week with the hopes that they could be in Base Camp shortly after the official start of winter. But yesterday Denis posted an update to his Facebook page sharing the news that they had been denied their permit, and as you can imagine, that was a devastating blow.

With no permit, it is difficult to say what the team will do now. They still have a few days before their flight to try to sort through the bureaucracy that prevented them from getting the permit in the first place, but it is hard to know why the Chinese denied their request to climb from the North Side. Perhaps the expedition can still be salvaged provided the communications from Chinese government is forthcoming with their demands.

The other alternative would be to attempt to jump to the Pakistani side of the mountain, although that doesn't seem likely either. This entire expedition hinged on a specific route that Denis had planned from the North Side. The small team was hoping to climb along a new route that would potentially shield them from some of the worst weather that K2 will throw at them in the weeks ahead. The trio of climbers was not training or preparing for the more exposed route along the "normal" path to the summit in Pakistan, which of course has not yielded much success during the winter in the past.

For now, we'll have to just wait to see what will happen. Clearly the team is heartbroken by this news, but hopefully they'll still be able to get something organized for this winter. Time is running short however, and the Chinese bureaucrats are not well known for being flexible. I'll post an update as soon as we know more.

Meanwhile, elsewhere teams are preparing to travel to Nanga Parbat for the first winter ascent of that mountain as well. Expect updates soon. And of course, Lonnie Dupre is already in Alaska, and waiting for the weather to clear so he can travel to Denali in preparation for his attempt at a January ascent of that mountain. The season is just about to really get going, so expect more updates soon.

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Winter Climbs 2014: Denis Urubko Talks K2 in Winter Prior to Departure to China

In just a couple of short weeks the 2014-2015 winter climbing season will get underway in the Himalaya, Karakoram, and beyond. This year, we know that there will be teams on both Nanga Parbat and K2, as climbers attempt to complete the first winter ascents of both of those mountains. Kazakh mountaineer Denis Urubko, a veteran of winter climbing on big peaks, will lead his team – which includes Adam Bilecki of Poland and Alex Txikon of Spain – to the North Face of K2, the toughest mountain in the world no matter the season. Prior to setting out, he sat down for a two-part interview with Medium.com that offers some insight into what the team has planned.

In the first part of the interview, Denis talks the logistics of K2 in winter, saying it will certainly be amongst his toughest projects while comparing it to the new routes he opened on Broad Peak in 2005 and Cho Oyu in 2009. He says that some of the biggest challenges of this expedition will be to stay healthy and patient, while waiting for the perfect weather window to give the climbers a shot at the summit. Urubko goes on to talk about why he wants to climb K2 in the winter, how he keeps these dangerous expeditions to the big peaks in perspective, and the minimalist approach the climbers will take above Base Camp.

In one interesting segment of the interview, Denis is pressed about the limits of his climbing abilities, to which he replies that he feels he is capable of climbing to 9500 meters (31,167 ft) of altitude without the use of supplemental oxygen. Of course, there isn't a mountain on the planet that reaches that high, so he is essentially saying that he can go up any mountain in the world without using O2. He adds that when he was younger, that limit was closer to 8600 meters (28,215 ft).

In the second part of the interview, the Russian climber talks about the mountaineers he admires (Vlad Smirnov, Eric Shipton, Reinhold Messner, etc.), the importance of every piece of gear that you have with you at altitude, and the importance of meeting the needs of sponsors in the modern age of exploration. He calls climbing on an 8000 meter peak in the summer months "a kind of tourism," and when asked who is the best mountaineer in the world today, he artfully dodges the question by saying you would first have to define the style of climbing, with great athletes attempting very different things.

All in all, both parts of the interview are very interesting and insightful to read. If you have an interest in the upcoming K2 expedition, I'd highly recommend them both.

Denis, Adam and Alex will depart for China on December 16. Once there, they'll sort their gear, work out the logistics and paperwork, and then proceed to the mountain. Winter officially begins on December 21, and they should arrive in Base Camp shortly there after. Stay tuned for plenty of updates on their climb.

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ExWeb Interviews Denis Urubko on Winter K2 Climb

Last week, Explorers Web posted an interesting interview with Denis Urubko, one of the climbers heading to K2 to attempt a winter ascent of that mountain. As you probably already know, K2 and Nanga Parbat are the only 8000 meter peaks that remain unclimbed during the winter, and this year, both peaks will see ambitious teams attempting to summit them once again. Urubko will lead an all-star squad of mountaineers to K2, where they'll attempt the North Face of the mountain from the Chinese side. Joining him will be Adam Bielecki and Alex Txikon, two very experienced climbers, as well as Artiom Braun and Dmitry Siniew.

In the interview, Denis discusses why they chose this route – he feels it offers better protection from the elements – and what conditions he expects to find there during the winter. There has been some discussion that this side of the mountain will be darker and colder than the South Side, but Denis disputes that, saying that they'll be climbing along a route that faces to the east, which should providing good morning sun, and when they climb out of the mountain's shadow they'll find plenty of light to help guide them on their way. He also says that while he expects the mountain to protect them from the harshest of weather conditions, they anticipate they could face -50ºC/-58ºF temperatures and 100 km/h (62 mph) winds. They hope to go to the summit when temperatures are at -40ºC/F, and with winds in a more manageable 50 km/h (31 mph).

Other portions of the interview touch on snow conditions on K2 during the winter, obstacles that the team will face on the route, and their approach to fixing ropes versus just climbing as light as possible. The team hopes to use snow caves at higher altitudes for their camps, and as shelter from the weather, and they plan on making an alpine style push once they are acclimatized and the conditions are right.

As you can imagine, Denis also touches on some important aspects of the climb that he is most concerned about as well, including an icefall that looks like it could be a very dangerous section of the climb, as well as knife edge ridge at 7500 meters (24,606 ft), and a rockfall at 8000 meters (26,246 ft) right below he summit. If the team hopes to reach the top, they'll need to overcome those challenges along the way.

The team will leave for China in just a couple of weeks, and will begin their winter attempt on the toughest mountain on the planet not long after that. I will, of course, be following this expedition very closely in the weeks ahead.

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Winter Mountaineering 2014: K2 and Nanga Parbat Take Center Stage

Earlier this week we turned out the light on the 2014 fall Himalayan climbing season by wrapping up the last couple of expeditions that were still ongoing. Now, there will be a bit of a respite on the big mountains, while most of the attention turns to the spring climbing season on Everest. But before that occurs, the winter climbing season awaits, and in just over a month's time, teams will begin heading to some of the most difficult peaks on the planet in an attempt to summit during the coldest, most demanding season of all.

As of now, there are just two 8000 meter peaks that remain unclimbed in winter, They are K2 and Nanga Parbat. This winter, teams have targeted both peaks in an attempt to knock off one, or both, of these incredibly difficult mountains.

While most of the winter climbing expeditions are heading to Nanga, the team that we'll be watching the closest will no doubt be on K2. As previously announced, a team consisting of climbing all-stars Denis Urubko, Adam Bielecki and Alex Txikon, who will be joined by Artiom Braun and Dmitry Siniew, has set its sights on a new route on the toughest mountain on the planet. The team will climb from the Chinese side of K2, up the North Face, along the Northeast Ridge. According to ExWeb, the squad will depart for the Karakoram on December 16.


Of course, this team has a great deal of experience climbing during the winter. Urubko was part of the team that put up the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II a few years back, and Bielecki has two first ascents during the season under his belt as well – Gasherbrum I and Broad Peak. They'll need all of that skill, experience, and determination if they hope to reach the summit of K2 in a few months.

Meanwhile, ExWeb is also offering solid details on the plans for Nanga Parbat as well. They claim that Tomek Mackiewicz, Daniele Nardi, Elisabeth Revol and Roberto Delle Monache will all share Base Camp on that mountain, although beyond that point Tomek intends to make a solo summit bid. That will be a bold expedition to follow as well, as he attempts to go up the Mummery Rib. The group is expected to depart for Pakistan on December 20.

According to Russian Climb, Nickolay Totmjanin, Valery Shamalo, Serguey Kondrashkin and Victor Koval are also attempting Nanga this winter. They are planning on setting off for Pakistan on December 22 for their own winter 8000-meter expedition.

Finally, Simone Moro is up to something in the Himalaya this winter, but we're not sure exactly what yet. He has promised his wife he would not attempt K2, so he won't join his friend Denis Urubko on that expedition, and he has also ruled out Nanga Parbat. Apparently, the expedition is still coming together, and he isn't quite ready to reveal plans just yet. Hopefully we'll hear more about what he has in store in the days ahead. As usual with Simone, he generally has some big idea. Perhaps he'll bring his friend Ueli Steck along for the ride as well.

That's all for now. These expeditions will begin to take center stage in about a month, but until then, the mountaineering world will be a bit quiet. It is certainly shaping up to be an interesting winter in the big mountains though. Stay tuned for updates.

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