Winter Climbs 2018: Everest and K2 Winter Expeditions Come to an End

While I was away last week there were massive developments in the two major climbing expeditions that we've been following closely this winter, with one coming to an end and the other losing its strongest climber after he went AWOL on the mountain. Today, we also received news that the winter expedition to K2 is ending as well, all but bringing an end to the winter climbing season.

We'll start on Everest where Alex Txikon has pulled the plug on his winter attempt without the use of supplemental oxygen. When last we checked in, the Basque alpinist, along with climbing partner Muhammad Ali Sadpara and a strong team of Sherpa guides, was heading upwards to make a summit bid with a narrow weather window opening last weekend. But, that window slammed shut and the team was forced to return to Base Camp.

Unfortunately, their climbing permit expired on February 28, and while it would have been relatively easy to extend its deadline, Txikon decided to head home instead. Sadapara and one of the Sherpas were forced to return to Kathmandu and the weather in the days ahead didn't look promising. Alex said it was a tough decision to make, but ultimately he knew it was the right one. The entire squad has left the mountain now.

Meanwhile, over on K2 things have been equally eventful. This morning the Polish Ice Warriors team  have announced that they are ending their attempt at the first winter ascent of that mountain due to a number of factors. After looking at the weather forecasts, team leader Krzysztof Wielicki found poor conditions throughout the month of March with only one narrow weather window to take a shot at the summit. He also cited avalanche dangers and deep snow on the upper flanks of the mountain, as well as the high likelihood that Camps 1, 2, and 3 have been destroyed by the current weather pattern. With the safety of the climbers in question, he has decided to go home, leaving K2 unclimbed in winter once again.


This comes after what can only be described as a tumultuous few days last week. That's when climber Denis Urubko went rogue, leaving the team and setting out on a solo summit bid. Urubko has been highly critical of Wielicki and his tactics, and has taken shots at his teammates who he didn't feel were climbing fast enough. In his defense, Urubko was clearly the strongest person on the team, and fixed most of the ropes himself. This led to frustration on his part, which boiled over several times, before coming to a head last week.

Without saying a word to Wielicki, Urubko left Base Camp and headed up the mountain with the intent of reaching the summit completely on his own. He managed to climb above C3 before poor weather turned him back, He then returned to BC where he reportedly was unapologetic. He was banned from using the team's Internet, and then later left altogether on February 28. He has yet to share more details on his side of the story.

Finally, Lonnie Dupre has also called off his attempt on Mt. Hunter in Alaska. He was set to make a solo winter attempt on that difficult mountain but heavy snow is preventing that from happening. The forecast calls for more than 6 feet (2 meters) of snow in the next few days, making it a very dangerous climb. Dupre says he will now wait until next winter to make the attempt once again.

That pretty much wraps up the winter climbing season altogether at this point. These were the last three expeditions I was following and I'm not aware of any other major climbs that are currently underway. Of course, in a few weeks we'll start looking ahead to the spring climbing season, which promises to be as eventful as ever.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Everest Weather Window Looks Good Heading into Weekend

It is go time on Everest at long last. Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, and the rest of the crew are now on their summit push with a favorable weather forecast heading into the weekend. But conditions on Everest are fickle and since they are climbing without the use of supplemental oxygen, this ascent into extremely cold temperatures is far from a sure thing. Still, this is the opportunity that Alex has been waiting two years for, and it looks like it will be now or never on the world's tallest mountain. 

As we reported yesterday, the team launched its summit bid mid-week and was already in Camp 2. Their last update indicated that they were still there at 6400 meters (20,997 ft) preparing to move up. They may already have moved to Camp 3, but haven't updated their status yet, which would put them in position to climb to C4 with an eye on summiting on Sunday morning. This is all according to plan, as Alex predicted that the final summit push would happen on either Saturday or Sunday. Exactly when they'll make the ascent remains to be seen. 

Alan Arnette has had a look at the forecasts – courtesy of EverestWeather.com – and says that winds are expected to subside both Saturday morning and Sunday morning, which means the team will be climbing throughout the night to take advantage of those conditions. Alan also points out they are on a typical schedule for a spring expedition to the South Side of the mountain, with Alex and company not feeling a particular need to rush things. 

While conditions do look good and the stage is set for this dramatic climb to unfold, keep in mind that the weather can shift quickly in the Himalaya. With the jet stream on the summit dying down in the mornings, this is a fairly narrow weather window. On top of that, a true winter ascent of the mountain – meaning the expedition took place entirely in the winter season – is a rare feat, let alone doing it without the use of oxygen. Alex and Ali Sadpara are both experienced climbers who will no doubt take every precaution, but this will be a struggle even with the weather conditions in their favor. 

We'll keep a close eye on the proceedings and bring you an update when when know more. Alex has said this will be the one and only summit bid, so lets hope everyone gets up and down safely, regardless of whether or not they reach the top. 

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Winter Climbs 2018: Summit Bid Begins on Everest

The moment we've all been waiting for has finally arrived on Everest. After months of planning and weeks of preparation on the mountain, Alex Txikon, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, and the rest of the team have launched a summit bid on Everest, and things are already going well. But, as with all things involving the highest mountain on the planet, it won't be an easy ascent.

The attempt on the summit – the first so far this season – got underway yesterday with the Alex and company reaching Camp 2 in a single push. They'll likely move up to C3 today and be in their final position tomorrow for a potential push to the top on Saturday or Sunday (February 24/25) of this week.

The forecast calls for a good weather window over the next few days. That is a relative forecast of course, this being winter in the Himalaya. Temperatures on the summit are expected to hover around -40ºF/C, with windchills approaching -80ºF/-62ºC. In other words, it will be brutally cold on the way up, and remember Alex is attempting this summit without the use of supplemental oxygen.

In a post on Facebook Alex has called this the "first and last chance to get to the summit of Everest," indicating that he expects this to be their only real chance at topping out this winter. With about a month to go yet before the end of the season, I would have expected the team to at least consider a second summit bid should they not make it this time. But, it has been a long couple of months on the mountain and the entire squad is probably ready to get the expedition over with. Hopefully that means they'll come home with their mission completed.
Meanwhile, over on K2 the Polish Ice Warriors have posted a short and sweet message about their current status. The entire team is now in Base Camp where they are resting and recovering from recent efforts. The group has now gone as high as 7200 meters (23,622 ft) in their acclimatization and gear shuttling efforts. They'll now spend a few days regaining some strength before launching the next phase of the expedition, which looks to make the first winter ascent of the mountain.

Finally, fresh off of his failed-attempt on Mt. Lucania with Pascale Marceau, Lonnie Dupre has announced he is about to embark on a late winter solo attempt on Mt. Hunter in Alaska. The peak was first climbed in winter back in 1980, but no one has managed to solo it during that season just yet. Dupre himself made an attempt last year, but was turned back on that expedition too. Now, he's returning to the 4441-meter (14,573-ft) peak to give it another go.

Hunter is considered one of the more challenging and technically demanding 14ers in North America.  This is especially true during the winter when high winds, deep snow, and brutally cold temperatures add to the equation. Durpre says he'll head to the mountain in the final week of February and will begin by first shuttling gear up the first 450 meters (1500 feet) to create and advanced base camp not he mountain. When the forecast gives him a good window, he'll launch a week-long, ultra-light push to the top. No doubt the plan is to sleep in snow caves like he did on his solo summit of Denali a few years back.

The entire expedition, which is dubbed "Cold Hunter One," is expected to take just 15 days to complete.

We'll of course keep an eye on all of these climbs as they continue to unfold.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Continued Progress on K2, Still Waiting on Everest with One Month to Go

It will be an unusual week here at The Adventure Blog in terms of updates. I'm on the road a couple of days and then leave the country on Friday. But until then, we'll share any news we can on what's happening in the outdoor world of exploration and adventure, including the ongoing winter expeditions that we've been following on K2 and Everest, where one team is making steady progress, while the other continues to wait.

On K2, the Polish Ice Warriors are continuing to take what the mountain gives them and are slowly and steadily working their way upward. In the latest update on the expedition it was revealed that Adam Bielecki and Denis Urubko have now established camp at 7200 meters (23,622 ft), while other teammates are following behind in regular rotations. The entire squad continues to work on acclimatization and are shuttling gear and supplies up the mountain.

After making the change to the Abruzzi Route the team has had to reinstall fixed ropes and redo some of the work they had already done elsewhere. But, as of today, they still have one month to go to complete the first winter ascent of K2, so there is still plenty of time for them to put everything together, adjust to the altitude, and look for a weather window. But in another week or two, things will start to get tight, so making steady progress is important. Weather will ultimately dictate the final schedule, but the team is putting in the work to get them into the right position to potentially have a shot at reaching the top.

Meanwhile, over on Everest, Alex Txikon and crew continue to wait. High winds further up the mountain are preventing them from making a summit push. The team is ready to go but need a proper window that stays open for several days, before they can leave Base Camp. Some forecasts predicted that would happen early this week, but for now conditions have not improved enough to allow them to go up.

While in BC thins aren't completely without incident. Yesterday, Alex posted the video below on Facebook showing an avalanche that occurred above camp. These happen all the time and aren't dangerous provided you're not close to them, but the noise keeps everyone on their toes and watching the glacier above them.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Is it Almost Go Time on Everest?

Since our last update on the winter climbs there hasn't been a whole lot of progress, but the future schedule is starting to become a bit clearer. Meanwhile, over on K2, things remain contentious, with one member of the team clearly unhappy with the current situation.

We'll start in Nepal, where Alex Txikon and his team have been relaxing and waiting in Base Camp. Everyone seems to be in good spirits while they watch the weather forecasts for an opportunity to make a summit push. Currently there is a projected weather window that could come next week on February 20, which means that everyone could be on the move as early as tomorrow to get themselves into position for a dash to the summit. The weather models predict that the wind speeds will die down at last, granting access to the top.

Of course, Alex, Ali Sadpara, and the rest of the squad will carefully pour over the data to ensure that it is safe to make the ascent, otherwise they'll just end up wasting energy. But, if there is a chance that they could complete the climb, it seems like they are poised to do so. Remember, the Basque climber will be going up without the use of supplemental oxygen, so this winter climb is far from a sure thing.

Over on K2, the Polish Ice Warriors continue their work on the Abruzzi Route. According to reports, Denis Urubko has now been as high as 6500 meters (21,325 ft) before being forced back down due to poor weather. The team has shuttled gear up to their new campsites but are now forced to stay in Base Camp while they wait for their next opportunity, which coincidentally could come on February 20 as well.

Perhaps the biggest challenge for the Poles at the moment is team unity. Urubko continues to criticize his teammates, the group's leadership, and even their selection of a climbing route. As usual, he seems like the strongest climber in the group, and has been shouldering much of the work up high, but he also hasn't held back in his critique of how things are going either, taking shots at the other climbers for things like not properly hydrating or assisting with the fixing of ropes. This discord can't be good for morale and could eventually lead to issues between the men. On the other hand, Urubko might be the team's best chance for getting to the summit, so it is a fine line to walk for sure.

We'll continue to keep an eye on things to see how they develop. Right now, the weather is keeping everyone in place, but it seems we're on the verge of summit bids on Everest, and possibly K2 as well. There are still four more weeks of winter to go however, so there is time for both teams to be patient and wait for the right opportunity.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Poles Make a Change on K2, Summit in Siberia

While it has only been a couple of days since I posted my last update on the major winter expeditions that we've been following so far this year. There has been a steady stream of news over the weekend that makes it worth of yet another update. Things are happening quickly right now, and the fate of these climbs is hanging in the balance.

On K2, the Polish Ice Warriors team has made the jump from the Česen Route over to the Abruzzi after yet another climber suffered an injury, this time serious enough to send him home. Last week, you'll recall, Adam Bielecki was struck by a falling rock, breaking his nose and opening a cut that required six stitches to heal. Over the weekend, Rafael Fronia also was hit be a falling rock, this time breaking his arm. This was enough of an injury to send him packing for home, and convince the team to switch to what they hope will be a safer route.

While conditions have been cold and windy on K2, there hasn't been a lot of snowfall, making rockslides much more common. Frozen snow and ice helps to keep that kind of debris in place, but a lack of it has created unsafe conditions. The hope is that the longer, less-steep climb up the Abruzzi will help mitigate some of these issues.

Meanwhile, the team has had some internal problems it seems as well. Denis Urubko posted some blistering thoughts about the progress so far, blasting his teammates to a degree. Urubko took umbrage with the fact that he was the only one installing ropes at higher altitude, and was critical of the other climbers for not staying hydrated and using their cooking stoves inside tents that aren't ventilated properly. Are these messages signs of discontent amongst the group or just his frustration on the lack of progress thus far? We'll have to wait to see, but perhaps the change of route will be good for morale all around.

Over on Everest, the Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, and the rest of the team continue to wait out the winds. Conditions high on the mountain are expected to improve early this week and they are tentatively planning a summit push once the forecast indicates better weather. For now though, there isn't much to do but rest, watch the skies, and prepare for the work yet to come. With 5 weeks of winter still on the calendar, they can afford to be patient.

Finally, there is new of a successful summit in Siberia. Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have reached the top of Pik Pobeda, a remote mountain located in the Chersky Range. The peak is just 3003 meters (9852 ft) in height, but it is located an a bitterly cold location. Last week, prior to launching their summit bid, temperatures were hovering around -40ºC/F, with winds making it feel even colder than that. Despite those conditions however, the duo were able to top out over the weekend, logging the first winter ascent of this mountain.

That's all for now. More updates soon.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Injury on K2, Summit Bid Scheduled for Everest

It seems the news from the two big winter expeditions that we've been following is coming at a fast pace. Just when you think there isn't much new to share, suddenly their is an update that brings important information. Such is the case for both K2 and Everest, where things are progressing nicely.

We'll start on K2 where the Polish Ice Warrior team continues to make slow but steady progress. They aren't particularly close to launching a summit bid, but with more than a month to go in the winter season, they still have plenty of time.

But, the team did have quite a scare this week when a large rock tumbled down the slope and hit Adam Bielecki in the face, breaking his nose and tearing a large gash in the process. Teammates Piotr Tomala and Marek Chmielarski performed emergency surgery in Base Camp, where Bielecki received six stitches after being helped down by two high altitude porters. He is not in any danger however, and will resume climbing after resting for a few days.

The rest of the team has continued with its regularly scheduled acclimation rotations, with several members now having spent the night at Camp 2 to allow their bodies to become accustomed to the altitude. The winds have been remained fairly light, at least below 6500 meters (21,325 ft) so far, although snow seems to be falling steadily on most days. How that will impact things as the team goes higher has yet to be seen, but for now things are going according to plan.

Over on Everest, Alex Txikon and Muhammad Ali Sadpara are starting to see their schedule firm up as well. The squad has been in Base Camp after climbing as high as 7850 meters (25,754 ft), poor weather forced them back down to BC where they have been waiting for things to improve for the past week or so. High winds and heavy snow have kept them in place, but things may be improving.

To make matters worse, sections of the Khumbu Icefall have collapsed as well, forcing the team to repair the route they are using through that treacherous section of the mountain. For now, things seem to be holding, but it is a good reminder that the icefall is extremely dangerous, even during the more frigid months of the year.

Conditions are expected to get much better starting this weekend however, which could clear the path for them to go back up next week. In fact, Ali Sadpara has said as much on Facebook indicating that they hope to make a summit push next week. We'll have to wait to see if the summit window actually opens, but for now things are looking optimistic.

Elsewhere, the Pakistani team making the first winter ascent of Mashbrum II has called it quits after finding too much snow on the route. It was making the climb without much funding or resources, and the conditions were just too much for them to overcome. The team is already on its way home.

Finally, there has been an update from Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger, who are attempting to climb the 3003 meter (9852 ft) Pik Pobeda located in the Chersky Range of Siberia. The duo have been on the mountain for awhile now and have established Base Camp and Camp 1. They indicate that there is a lot of snow there and temperatures are hovering around -45ºC/-49ºF, with strong winds.

That's all for now. More updates soon I'm sure.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Poles Reunited on K2

While most of us in the U.S. gathered around our television sets to watch the Big Game yesterday, the winter mountaineering expeditions that we've been following closely over the past month or so continued to work towards their goals. As usual, weather is the biggest stumbling block at the moment, although the squads on K2 and Everest are extremely happy with the way things are progressing.

We'll start in Pakistan, where the Polish Ice Warriors have reunited on K2. You'll recall that several members of the team left Base Camp last week to assist in the rescue of Elisabeth Revol on Nanga Parbat. After getting her back down the mountain safely, they accompanied her to Islamabad before catching a flight out to Skardu where they could then return to BC. But weather kept them grounded for several days, preventing them from getting back to the work at hand. Late last week however, things cleared up just long enough to allow the entire team to gather together once again and resume their efforts to make the first winter ascent of K2.

The team didn't waste and time in getting back to work either. Well rested after a few days off the mountain, and with a weather window to take advantage of, Denis Urubko and Marcin Kaczkan immediately went up the mountain and have now spent the night in both Camp 1 and 2. That helps to maintain their acclimatization efforts as they look to go higher soon. Depending on the weather conditions, they may even proceed up the peak tomorrow, looking to establish C3 and possibly even spend the night there as well.

In other words, things are back to "normal" on K2.

Meanwhile, over on Everest, Alex Txikon and company have been stuck in Base Camp for a few days. High winds have blasted onto the mountain, keeping them from climbing any higher for now. The team was likely ready for a break, so this weather front may have come at a good time. Last week they reached 7850 meters (25,754 ft) and have been climbing ahead of schedule for the entire season. A bit of down time in BC will allow them to rest, recharge their batteries, and get ready for the next push up the mountain. I would imagine they'd like to establish a camp above 8000 meters, and maybe spend some time acclimatizing above that altitude before making plans for a summit attempt.

Remember, this isn't just about climbing Everest during the winter, which is a pretty impressive feat in its own right. Alex is hoping to summit without the use of bottled oxygen as well, making this truly an expedition for the ages. Technically, there has only ever been one another true winter expedition to Everest, and only one person has ever topped out without oxygen as well. If he is successful, it will be one of the most impressive feats on Everest in recent memory, if not ever.

That's it for now. I'll continue to keep an eye on things on both of these major expeditions and post updates when there is important news to share.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Everest Team Nears 8000 Meters, It's Over on Mt. Lucania

We've got more news today from the big winter expeditions that we've been following this year, some good, some not so good. And as the season progresses, we're reminded why this is the toughest, most demanding, and brutal season of all.

We'll start with an update from Everest, where when we last checked in the team was heading up to Camp 3 for a night to continue their acclimatization process. That plan went well, and the following day Alex Txikon and company continued upward to 7850 meters (25,754 ft) before turning back. It seems that they could have potentially gone up to Camp 4 above 8000 meters (26,246 ft), but one of the climbers started to feel under the weather and the high winds began to move into the area. At that point, the squad decided that they had done enough this week, and proceeded back down the mountain. At the moment, they are all gathered back in Base Camp, where they will rest, recuperate, and watch the weather forecast before deciding when they'll head back up again.

Meanwhile, over on K2, the Polish Ice Warrior team isn't waiting around for their compatriot to rejoin them before heading back up the mountain. Several members of the group were involved in the rescue operation that helped bring Elisabeth Revol safely down the mountain, and those climbers are still in Skardu awaiting improved weather to catch a helicopter flight back to BC. In the meantime, two other members of the squad – Artur Malek and Merek Chmielarski – have set off today back up to Camp 1 to check the status of their ropes and gear.

Once the entire team is reunited and back to full strength, they'll continue their regular climbing operations. The next goal will be to establish Camp 3 somewhere around the 7000 meter (22,965 ft) mark. Before that can happen however, the weather will first have to allow the climbers in Skardu to return to BC, and then stay calm enough to allow them to resume shuttling gear up the Česen Route. It could be a few days yet before those things happen.

Finally, we get the disappointing news today that Lonnie Dupre and Pascale Marceau have pulled the plug on their attempt to climb Mt. Lucania in Canada. Conditions have been difficult from the start on this expedition, and they were made worse when the duo couldn't be dropped off at their preferred starting point due to poor conditions. That meant they had to manhaul their sleds further than they had planned, leaving them exhausted before they ever made camp. After that, they discovered the route they had intended to take up the mountain was impassable, and to make matters worse, the high winds and extreme cold made it impossible to get warm, even in their sleeping bags inside a tent each night.

So, with all of that in mind, Dupre and Marceau have skied back to their pick-up point and are waiting for a plane to pick them up. The weather will dictate when exactly that will happen, but they could be retrieved as early as today.

There are a couple of other winter expeditions that are ongoing, although we've had few updates from so far. For instance, according to Alan Arnette, Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have only now just arrived on Pik Pobeda in remote Northern Siberia, while ah team of Pakistani climbers has set its sights on Masherbrum II. There have been few dispatches on either squad to know if they have made much progress however.

For now, we'll continue watching Everest and K2 to see how things progress.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Camp 3 on Everest, K2 Team in Skardu

The tragic events on Nanga Parbat have dominated the mountaineering news cycle over the past few days, leaving most of us on the edge of our seat as we watched those events unfold. With the outcome now revealed, it is time to get back to climbing and we have updates from the major expeditions currently underway.

We'll start on Everest, where Alex Txikon and Muhammad Ali Sadpara reveal that they were also following the events on Nanga Parbat closely. Txikon had climbed with Tomak in the past and is no doubt feeling the loss deeply. But, he still has things that he needs to accomplish on the highest mountain on the planet, and the team continues to make good progress there.

Alex and company have now established Camp 3 on the mountain and spent last night in C2 as part of their acclimatization efforts. Today, they'll shuttle more gear up to Camp 3 and will spend the night there as well. After that, it will be back to Base Camp to rest and recuperate before deciding their next move. If a weather window comes, and the team is feeling strong, it is possible they could start to talk about summit bids. Alternatively, they could also look to establish Camp 4 before even thinking about going any higher. They still have plenty of time left in winter and there is no major rush, although they will have to take advantage of any weather windows that come their way. For now, the plan will be to wait and see what Everest offers them.

The members of the Polish team that assisted in the rescue operations on Nanga Parbat are preparing to head back to K2 to resume their own expedition there. After helping get Elisabeth Revol down the mountain and back to Islamabad, the squad has now gathered in Skardu where they are waiting for the weather to improve before going back to Base Camp. That could take a few days but they are committed to resuming their attempt to become the first to summit K2 in winter, despite the effort they just put in as part of the search and rescue team.

Finally, Lonnie Dupre and Pascale Marceau are finding it tough going on Mt. Lucania in Canada. The duo have been tentbound for the past two days with high winds preventing them from climbing higher up the mountain. They are currently camped at 12,000 feet (3673 meters) while 40 mph (64km/h) winds whip outside their shelter. Wind chills have dropped the temperature to roughly -42ºF/C, making it dangerous to be outside in those condition.

The plan is to wait out the storm, and drop down to a safer location before reevaluating the situation and planning their approach to the summit. At 17,257 feet (5259 meters) in height, Lucania doesn't push climbers with its altitude. Instead, it offers technical challenges and difficult weather instead, which is exactly what Lonnie and Pascale are feeling at the moment.

That's all for today. I'll post more updates when there is news to share.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Camp 2 on Everest, Stalled Out on K2

The major mountaineering expeditions that we're following this winter seem to have updates on an almost daily basis at the moment. That's a bit unusual considering the weather can often cause them to stall out for extended periods of time. But, there is news on several fronts with progress being made.

On K2, the Polish team reports that two of the members of the team have now gone up to 5900 meters (19,356 ft) and returned safely to Base Camp. Their jaunt up the mountain was meant to scout the route, and they discovered that there was little protection from the elements to be had in their intended spot for Camp 1, so instead they will set things up at 6200 meters (20,341 ft) instead.

The plan is to start shuttling gear to that spot in the coming days, but high winds are expected to hit the mountain soon, which will leave them tentbound in BC while they wait for things to improve. After that, they'll continue their acclimatization and gear shuttling efforts.

While the Poles sit and wait for the weather to improve, Alex Txikon continues to make good progress over on Everest. After spending the night at Camp 1 on Sunday, the following day he and one of the Sherpas made their first foray up to Camp 2 at 6500 meters (21,325 ft). Right now, the expedition is running well ahead of schedule, shaving off several days from the timetable that was used last year.

Alex, climbing partner Ali Sadpara, and the Sherpa support team have taken advantage of a good weather window to get plenty of work done on the mountain, including shuttling 600 meters of rope up to C2. They are currently back in Base Camp and resting up, with the Basque mountaineer reporting that high winds hit Everest while they were on their descent, so it could be a few days before they head back up again.


Finally, after a few delays due to poor weather conditions, Lonnie Dupre and Pascale Marceau should be ready to fly out to their starting point today. They've set their sights on Mt. Lucania, located in the St. Elias Range in a remote area of the Canadian Yukon. At 5240 meters (17,192 ft) in height, it is the third highest peak in Canada. What makes it so intriguing is the extreme cold they'll face on the way to the top.

High winds and cold temperatures kept the duo's flight grounded for the past few days, but conditions have improved enough to allow them to get started today. The'll be dropped off at a safe landing zone, then ski to the mountain, pulling sleds filled with gear behind them as they go. Those sleds will have about 100 pounds (45 kg) of supplies and gear to help get them through this expedition.

Stay tuned for more updates as the season continues to unfold.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Teams Reach Camp 1 on Everest and K2

Despite the fact that the winter climbing season is really just getting underway in the Himalaya and Karakoram, good progress is already being made by the teams on both Everest and K2. The squads on those mountains have taken advantage of good conditions and have spent little time in Base Camp before heading up to Camp 1.

Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, and their support team have already been very busy on Everest. Not only did they shuttle their first gear loads up to C1 by Thursday of last week but today they'll be spending the night at that spot as they truly begin their acclimatization process. It took the team just four days to finish the route through the Khumbu Icefall, which is a pretty impressive accomplishment to say the least. Remember, during the spring climbing season on Everest, there is a whole team of Sherpas who handle those duties.

So far, Alex and his crew are ahead of last year's schedule. It has taken a lot of work for each man to carry loads as heavy as 35 kilos (77 pounds) up the slopes to the C1 campsite, but as of now they have finished that process about five days faster than they did last year. There is obviously still a lot of work to be done for the Basque mountaineer to claim his no-oxygen winter ascent, but things are definitely off to a good start.

Meanwhile, the Poles are also making good headway in their efforts on K2. As of today, they have not only established Base Camp on that mountain, but they have also set up their communications systems to share progress with the rest of the world too. Apparently they haven't been resting on their laurels since arriving in BC last week either, as they have already climbed as high as 5700 meters (18,700 ft) while scouting the route and acclimatizing. Tomorrow they will make their first foray up to 5900 meters (19,356 ft) to begin shuttle gear to create Camp 1 at that point as well.

Finally, Lonnie Dupre and climbing partner Pascale Marceau have delayed the start of their climb on Mt. Lucania in Canada after the weather took a turn for the worse. The mountain is currently experiencing temperatures that are hovering around -40ºC/F with the windchill and windspeed in the 45+ km/h (27 mph) range. Those speeds are down from as much as 110 km/h (68 mph) over the weekend, but things should improve further over the next few days. They hope to get a good window for their flight to the mountain where they can finally get underway.

Stay tuned for more updates as the season continues to unfold.

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Winter Climbs 2018: Teams Reach Camp 1 on Everest and K2

Despite the fact that the winter climbing season is really just getting underway in the Himalaya and Karakoram, good progress is already being made by the teams on both Everest and K2. The squads on those mountains have taken advantage of good conditions and have spent little time in Base Camp before heading up to Camp 1.

Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, and their support team have already been very busy on Everest. Not only did they shuttle their first gear loads up to C1 by Thursday of last week but today they'll be spending the night at that spot as they truly begin their acclimatization process. It took the team just four days to finish the route through the Khumbu Icefall, which is a pretty impressive accomplishment to say the least. Remember, during the spring climbing season on Everest, there is a whole team of Sherpas who handle those duties.

So far, Alex and his crew are ahead of last year's schedule. It has taken a lot of work for each man to carry loads as heavy as 35 kilos (77 pounds) up the slopes to the C1 campsite, but as of now they have finished that process bout five days faster than they did last year. There is obviously still a lot of work to be done for the Basque mountaineer to claim his no-oxygen winter ascent, but things are definitely off to a good start.

Meanwhile, the Poles are also making good headway in their efforts on K2. As of today, they have not only established Base Camp on that mountain, but they have also set up their communications systems to share progress with the rest of the world too. Apparently they haven't been resting on their laurels since arriving in BC last week either, as they have already climbed as high as 5700 meters (18,700 ft) while scouting the route and acclimatizing. Tomorrow they will make their first foray up to 5900 meters (19,356 ft) to begin shuttle gear to create Camp 1 at that point as well.

Finally, Lonnie Dupre and climbing partner Pascale Marceau have delayed the start of their climb on Mt. Lucania in Canada after the weather took a turn for the worse. The mountain is currently experiencing temperatures that are hovering around -40ºC/F with the windchill and windspeed in the 45+ km/h (27 mph) range. Those speeds are down from as much as 110 km/h (68 mph) over the weekend, but things should improve further over the next few days. They hope to get a good window for their flight to the mountain where they can finally get underway.

Stay tuned for more updates as the season continues to unfold.

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It's Official! Alex Txikon Heading Back to Everest This Winter

Just one day after I posted a story speculating on his return to Everest this winter, it is now official. Spanish climber Alex Txikon is returning to the Big Hill for the second year in a row to attempt a winter ascent without oxygen, and he's being joined by an old friend on this endeavor.

While Alex himself has yet to confirm the expedition, news leaked out when his climbing partner – Ali Sadapara from Pakistan – posted farewell images to his Facebook page as he said goodbye to friends and family. Ali has been on several major winter expeditions over the past few years, and has become a national hero in his home country. His departure is big news there, as he sets out to climb the world's highest peak in the coldest season of all.

The Spanish climber is expected to confirm the climb tomorrow, December 22, the first full day of winter in the Northern Hemisphere. As the article linked above indicates however, some of his sponsors have already stared hinting at the impending climb as well.

Last year, Txikon made a valiant attempt at a true winter ascent without oxygen, but came up just a little short. Only one climber has ever been able to reach the summit of Everest in winter without the use of bottled O's. That was Ang Rita Sherpa, who accomplished that feat back in 1987. I also say a "true" winter ascent, because many of the winter summits of Everest actually took place in the first day or two of the season, meaning that teams acclimated in the fall, then made a dash to the top when the calendar officially changed. In the case of Txikon, he is waiting until it is officially winter to actually begin the climb, meaning all efforts will take place during the cold and harsh season.

Yesterday we speculated that Txikon may be joined by Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger on this expedition, but so far there is no indication that that will happen. That announcement, if it is real, could come tomorrow when the expedition is officially confirmed too. For now, we'll just have to wait to see.

We followed Alex's attempt on Everest all season long last winter, and this year will be no different. Stay tuned for regular updates on his progress.

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Video: Reinhold Messner Visits Alex Txikon in Everest Base Camp

One of the major expeditions we followed closely last winter was Alex Txikon's attempt to summit Everest solo in winter. There are some rumblings that he might be headed back to try again this year, but I haven't seen official confirmation of those plans yet. This video was shot in Base Camp last winter and it features a special moment when Reinhold Messner – perhaps the greatest mountaineer of all time – came to visit Alex there. The two men share a common bond of the mountains and talk a bit of strategy for making the ascent in winter.

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Winter Climbs 2017: Txikon Back in Base Camp, Ready for Summit Attempt

At the end of last week I wrote that Spanish climber Alex Txikon had set out from Everest Base Camp to take advantage of a brief weather window that had opened on the mountain. At the time, there was some speculation that he might be making an attempt on the summit, although I suspected it would be his final acclimatization rotation instead. Now, after a very busy couple of days on the mountain, we know two things: The weather window has closed and Alex is ready to make history once again this winter. 

Txikon and his band of Sherpa climbing partners left BC last Thursday to make a push up the Lhotse Face. The team made solid time as they enjoyed good weather on their way up the mountain, first staying in Camp 2 for the night, before proceeding up to C3 the following day. Ultimately, they would establish Camp 4 at 7950 meters (26,082 ft) on Saturday, where they would deposit gear that will eventually be needed for the coming summit push. Once they dropped off the equipment, they immediately turned around and descended back down the mountain, with the Sherpas remaining in C2 while Alex himself continued back to Base Camp.

Now, all the members of the team have safely reached BC, where they are awaiting a storm that is expected to arrive early this week. That storm will bring high winds, lots of snow, and very cold conditions. But, it isn't expected to be a large weather pattern, and the forecast says it will move on later in the week. That means that another weather window could open within a few days, giving the team a chance to go for the summit at long last. 

Alex says that he is now full acclimatized but he needs rest before launching his summit bid. He'll get time to regather his strength while the weather is bad. Once the storm passes and he's had a few days to recuperate, the final push will begin. The Spaniard says that he is now ready to go and the stage has been set. All he needs is a stretch of good weather conditions and he will have a go at the summit. 

As if climbing Everest in the winter isn't challenging enough, Alex is also doing so without the use of bottled oxygen, something that has only been accomplished once in the past. You may recall that the Spanish climber is use to making history during the winter, as last year he was part of the squad that put up the first ascent of Nanga Parbat during that season as well. 

For now, just like Alex and his teammates, we have to sit and wait. But the next time he leaves BC, it should be for an attempt on the summit. I'll let you know when that happens and will have regular updates on his progress in the days ahead. 

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Winter Climbs 2017: Txikon in BC After Reaching Camp 3

Spanish mountaineer Alex Txikon has set a blistering pace for himself so far on Everest this winter, but he is currently back in Base Camp after reaching a milestone in his current expedition to that mountain. And while things have been going well so far, the biggest challenges are yet to come, and he hasn't accomplished all of his goals just yet. 

After arriving in Nepal a little over a month ago, and spending the first week and a half of the expedition trekking to Everest Base Camp, Alex and his climbing partner Carlos Rubio, along with a small but very dedicated team of Sherpas, began their expedition in the early part of January. Since then, the squad has completed a route through the difficult Khumbu Icefall, and shuttled gear up to several high camps as part of their acclimatization efforts. With good weather aiding the cause, things were evolving rapidly and surprisingly well early on.

But as we learned last week, Rubio was forced to leave the mountain when he developed a medical condition that was serious enough to prevent him form continuing the climb. That dealt a severe blow to the team's morale, but Alex is a seasoned alpinist and has soldiered on without his friend. In fact, while Carlos was getting evacuated from the mountain, Txikon was on his way to Camp 3, and even higher. Last week he reached that point, and 7300 meters (23,950 ft). Once there, they deposited some gear and spent the night, allowing their bodies to grow accustomed to the thin air. Later, they went up even further, reaching 7800 meters (25,590 ft), before returning to Base Camp for a much deserved rest. 

Since then, Alex has stayed in BC and is regaining strength while watching the weather closely. He also wrote a blog post in which he discusses the team's efforts so far, and provides some insights into what they've been going through. While from the outside, it seems they've had a fairly successful and relatively easy go of it so far, the reality is that climbing Everest is hard work, and doubly so during the winter with limited support. The mere fact that this team has to build and maintain its own route through the Icefall speaks volumes of the challenges that they've faced. During the regular climbing season in the spring, an entire team of very experienced Sherpas are dedicated to that very task. 

Alex also expressed his appreciation of the team that he has around him. It isn't large, but it is very dedicated, with everyone working very hard and focused on achieving their goal – a summit of Everest in winter without the use of supplemental oxygen. 

As of now, there is still more than a month and a half to go to achieve that goal. To do that, they'll need to overcome extremely cold temperatures, poor weather conditions, and sheer physical exhaustion. Can they do it? We'll just have to continue watching and waiting to see if it happens. If Alex and his team do summit however, it'll be the first time in decades anyone has done without oxygen during the most difficult season of all. 

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Winter Climbs 2017: Txikon and Company in Camp 2 on Everest

With Lonnie Dupre abandoning his attempt to summit Mt. Hunter in Alaska this winter, we have one less expedition to follow this season. Still, there are major climbs taking place on Everest and Manaslu that should keep us occupied over the next two months, which is exactly the amount of time remaining until winter comes to an end. That may seem like a long time, but with winter weather often keeping teams stuck in Base Camp for extended periods, those days and weeks can disappear in a hurry. But for now, at least one team is making good progress towards their goal.

It has been about a week since we last had an update from Elisabeth Revol regarding her winter expedition to Manaslu. At the time, she had just arrived in Base Camp and was reporting heavy snow falling on the mountain, with 2.5 meters (8.2 ft) of snow falling in the first half of January alone. But since then there has been no further updates on her team's progress, so we can only presume that things are proceeding, but how well the expedition is unfolding remains a bit of a mystery for now. Hopefully we'll hear something soon.

On the other hand, Alex Txikon has done a good job of keeping us up to date on the progress of his small team on Everest. After completing a route through the Khumbu Icefall last week, the group made its way up to Camp 1 for an acclimatization rotation. After securing a campsite there, and depositing some gear, Alex and his climbing partners – Carlos Rubio and Nurbu Sherpa – descended back to BC for a rest.


Fortunately for them, the weather has been fairly cooperative so far however, so it wasn't too long before they were headed back up the mountain. Yesterday we received word that they had established Camp 2 at 6400 meters (20,997 ft) and have spent the night there as part of the ongoing acclimatization process.

It is possible that if the weather holds, the team will stay at that spot for another night or two, before once again returning to Base Camp. This is all according to plan, and much like an Everest expedition that would take place at any other time of the year. The difference being if the weather does make a shift, Alex and company will probably see incredibly cold temperatures and heavy snow start to fall. How they react to that change in weather, and jus how severe the conditions are, will play a major role in the eventual outcome of the expedition.

Txikon is hoping to summit without the use of supplemental oxygen, something that has happened only one other time during the winter months. If he can pull it off, it will be no small feat, as temperatures will likely be around -60ºF/-51ºC at the top of the mountain when a summit bid finally does come. It is impossible to judge when that might happen, although if they manage to stay on their current schedule, we could see an attempt in about two weeks time. The weather will ultimately dictate the schedule however, so don't count on that happening just yet.

We'll continue to keep an eye on Everest and watch Alex's progress closely. So far, he has to be pretty pleased with how things are proceeding.

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Video: Up to Camp 1 on Everest in Winter

One of the expeditions we're following closely at the moment is Alex Txikon's attempt to summit Everest during the winter without the use of supplemental oxygen. The team has been making good progress so far, and having reached Camp 1, are now back in BC resting. In this video, we join Alex, and his partners Carlos Rubio and Nurbu Sherpa as they pass through the dangerous Khumbu Icefall and up to C1 – a path that the Spaniard calls "the Runner of Death." The footage in this short clip is dramatic and wild, but it gives you a great look at what these climbers are dealing with right now on the highest mountain on the planet.

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