One of the biggest stories in outdoor adventure this year is definitely Alex Honnold's free solo of El Capitan in Yosemite this past summer. In this video, we hear Alex talk about this historic feat and his inspiration for climbing, with a set of animated clips helping to convey the story. The entire video is charming and fun, while we listen to one of the greatest climbers of all time talk about one of the greatest climbs of all time. It is definitely worth the three minute time commitment, and by the end you'll probably be wanting more.
Showing posts with label El Capitan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label El Capitan. Show all posts
Video: 13-Minutes of Footage From the New Speed Record on the Nose
Back in October, rock climbers Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds set a new speed record on The Nose in Yosemite, zipping up the most iconic climb in the world in a blistering 2 hours, 19 minutes, and 44 seconds. That's 4 minutes faster than the previous record held by Hans Florine and Alex Honnold. In this video clip we get a look at the two men on the wall, as they're making their way up. This isn't some stylized, highly produced climbing documentary, but is instead raw footage captured on their way to the record. That makes it all the better.
Climbers Set New Speed Record on The Nose in Yosemite
The duo used a mix of both free climbing and aid climbing to make the ascent, preferring to go without safety equipment on the easier pitches, but employing it where they felt its was most needed. The climb took place on Saturday, with Gobright and Reynolds overcoming the 31 pitches in the fastest time yet.
About a decade or so ago there were a number of attempts to set new speed records on The Nose, with the mark being lowered four times in 2007 and 2008 alone. Honnold and Florine set their record back in 2012 however, taking nearly 13 minutes off the previous fastest time. That is where the bar has stayed until this past weekend, when Gobright and Reynolds were able to take it even lower still. Whether or not anyone will step up to challenge their pace in the near future remains to be seen.
You can read more about the climb and new record at Climbing.com. And while you're at it, check out the awesome video from the ascent too.
Putting Alex Honnold's Free Climb of El Cap into Perspective
Since the announcement of Alex's accomplishment hit the newswires a number of climbers have stepped forward to offer their thoughts on what this means for the sport. Most view it as a monumental shift in what is believed to be possible, with some saying that it not only ranks amongst the best climbs ever done, but that it is actually amongst the most impressive achievements in any sport – ever.
One of the best article's I've read on this story comes our way courtesy of Tommy Caldwell who wrote about the climb for Outside magazine. The post, which can be found here, explains in no uncertain terms just how difficult this climb is and why the very thought of it is mind boggling, even to someone as accomplished as Caldwell. Tommy also happens to know Alex very well, and was climbing with him in Yosemite the day before he made his historic ascent. In a previous article, he referred to it as the "moon landing" of free climbing.
As if that wasn't enough, Alpinist magazine called Honnold's climb “indisputably the greatest free solo of all time,” which helps to put it further into perspective. Legendary climber Peter Croft described the feat as “... the obvious next step. But after this, I really don’t see what’s next. This is the big classic jump.” Gripped magazine went on to add that this was by far the most groundbreaking accomplishment of Alex's already incredibly career.
In short, we're looking at a major shift in climbing and it is nearly impossible to overstate just how big this is for the sport. Hopefully we won't see a major rash of other climbers looking to repeat Alex's success, as there are very few who could pull it off. Still, it is wildly impressive and he deserves all of the accolades that have come is way and are sure to follow in the days ahead.
Alex Honnold Climbs El Cap Without Ropes
Honnold launched his bid at 5:32 AM and completed the historic climb at 9:28 AM, which means his finished the tough, iconic ascent up El Cap in 3 hours, 56 minutes. For the length of the entire climb, he essentially used just a pair of climbing shoes and a chalk bag filled with chalk. There were no ropes or other safety devices involved, marking this the first true free solo of one of the most famous rock faces in the entire world.
To put this in perspective, Tommy Caldwell told National Geographic that this is the "moon landing" of free soloing, meaning it is truly ground-breaking and historical, taking the sport into new, uncharted territory. According to Nat Geo, only two other climbers have even mentioned attempting the climb themselves. They were Michael Reardon and Dean Potter, both of which have passed away in recent years. At the moment, Honnold seems to be the only climber in the world who could pull off such a big ascent.
You can read the entire story of this amazing feat on the Nat Geo website. It is quite a story that not only provides more details, but also profiles Alex and what sets him apart from the field. Right now, he's climbing on another level, and getting the entire scoop is inspiring to say the least.
Miranda Oakley Sets New Female Speed Record on the Nose in Yosemite
A few days back, Oakley completed a solo summit of Yosemite's most iconic route in 21 hours and 50 minutes. That shaved more than 2.5 hours off the previous record, which was set by Chantel Astorga back in 2014. Astorga went up the nose in 24 hours, 39 minutes, which means Oakley is also the first woman to break the 24-hour mark as well.
The Nose has a long and storied history in climbing. It is considered one of the most famous routes in all of rock climbing, requiring equal parts skill, strength, and stamina to complete. Rated a 5.9 C2, the classic ascent is a 3000-foot monster that tests the dedication and determination of any climber. Oakley did it solo for the first time last year, completing her climb in a little under 27 hours.
For reference sake, the current speed record on The Nose for a two-person team is held by Hans Florine and Alex Honnold. That talented duo managed so complete the route in 2 hours, 23 minutes, and 46 seconds. The solo record for men is held by Tommy Caldwell, who topped out in just under 12 hours.
Congratulations to Miranda for an impressive display of skill and strength. Well done!
Actor Jared Leto Joins Alex Honnold on El Cap in Yosemite
Academy Award winning actor Jared Leto seems to have added yet another skill to his resume that already includes musician, songwriter, director and author. It seems the celeb is also an accomplished rock climber, as was evidenced last weekend when he went climbing in Yosemite with Alex Honnold.
On Friday Leto and Honnold scaled the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral, which is ranked amongst the 50 classic climbs of North America. Then on Saturday, the two men climbed three shorter, easier routes on the 600-foot Manure Pile Buttress, before moving onto the East Buttress of El Capitan on Sunday.
Later, Leto posted a photo of The Nose on El Cap – perhaps the most iconic climb in the world – hinting that he might like to try that at some point. Later, he shared the photo below on his Instagram account of he and Honnold. They're joined by Jimmy Chin, who dropped by for a photo bomb apparently.
On Friday Leto and Honnold scaled the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral, which is ranked amongst the 50 classic climbs of North America. Then on Saturday, the two men climbed three shorter, easier routes on the 600-foot Manure Pile Buttress, before moving onto the East Buttress of El Capitan on Sunday.
Later, Leto posted a photo of The Nose on El Cap – perhaps the most iconic climb in the world – hinting that he might like to try that at some point. Later, he shared the photo below on his Instagram account of he and Honnold. They're joined by Jimmy Chin, who dropped by for a photo bomb apparently.
Video: Emily Harrington Climbs El Capitan's Golden Gate Route
El Capitan is arguably the most iconic climbing wall in the entire world, drawing in the best rock climbers from across the globe. That includes Emily Harrington, who visited Yosemite National Park to attempt the difficult Golden Gate route, which features a rating of 5.13 VI. It took her six days to complete the 40 pitches, but eventually she conquered the route. You can follow her efforts in the video below, which gives us an amazing look at the rock face, and the spectacular valley below.
Video: Tommy Caldwell Climbs the Four Hardest Routest at The Monastery in a Single Day!
Tommy Caldwell is one of the best climbers working the rock today. He proves that once again in this video, in which he takes on four of the hardest climbs at The Monastery in Colorado in a single day. Each of these routes is incredibly challenging in their own right, but doing all of them in one day only adds to the difficulty. Caldwell uses the experience to help prepare him for his ultimate project – climbing the Dawn Wall on El Capitan, a project he has been working on for five years.
Tommy Caldwell Climbs The Four Hardest Routes at the Monastery, In a Day!!! from BlueWater Ropes on Vimeo.
Video: Impossible Invitation On El Cap
We've seen some good climbing videos of late and you can add this one to the mix. It features climber Kevin Jorgenson, who is working on climbing a new, very difficult route on El Capitan in Yosemite. This project has been an ongoing one for several years, but progress continues to be made. What makes this a great clip to watch is the subtle nature of the climbing on display. You'll get some great shots of Kevin working the wall, and you'll see just how small the hand and foot holds that is is working with are. Impressive and scary stuff.
Impossible Invitation from adidas Outdoor on Vimeo.
Female Climbers Set New Speed Record On The Nose
Both of the ladies have held the record in the past, but with different climbing partners. In 2011, Sauter and her partner scaled The Nose in 10 hours, 40 minutes, which established a record at the time. A year later, Smith-Gobat and her partner dropped that time down 7 hours, 26 minutes. This team-up of two of the world's top female climbers was able to lower the time dramatically, although they both say there is still room for improvement.
For comparison sake, the Adventure Journal points out that the route was first climbed back in 1958 over a period of 47 days. The current men's record is held by Hans Florine and Alex Honnold and stands at 2 hours, 36 minutes, 45 seconds. Smith-Gobat also teamed with Sean Leary to set the mixed-gender record of 4 hours, 22 minutes.
Obviously this climb took place prior to the closing of the park for the government shutdown this past Tuesday. Anyone who want to challenge the record will have to wait for the park to reopen again before they can give it a go.
Congrats to Mayan and Libby on an impressive outing. Well done!
First Man To Climb El Cap With Cerebral Palsy Interviewed By Outside
Back on September 12th, Steven Wampler became the first person with Cerebral Palsy to climb El Cap in Yosemite National Park. It took him six days to scale that epic rock face, pulling himself up an estimated 20,000 times in the process. The climb was made possible thanks to a custom designed chair, a special system of ropes and the help of two friends who secured the route and accompanied him to the top of the 3000 foot wall.
A few days ago, Outside magazine had the opportunity to sit down and chat with Steven, who has had a few weeks to reflect on his accomplishment. The interview was posted on the Outside Blog earlier today, with Wampler sharing his insights on the scariest parts of the climb (He's afraid of heights!), why he chose El Cap for his first real climb, and what's next for him.
Pretty incredible story if you ask me. El Cap is a challenge for anyone to climb, and to do it while afflicted by Cerebral Palsy is just astounding. Quite an impressive feat to say the least.
You can find out more about Steven and the climb in the video below, which comes our way courtesy of ABC News.
A few days ago, Outside magazine had the opportunity to sit down and chat with Steven, who has had a few weeks to reflect on his accomplishment. The interview was posted on the Outside Blog earlier today, with Wampler sharing his insights on the scariest parts of the climb (He's afraid of heights!), why he chose El Cap for his first real climb, and what's next for him.
Pretty incredible story if you ask me. El Cap is a challenge for anyone to climb, and to do it while afflicted by Cerebral Palsy is just astounding. Quite an impressive feat to say the least.
You can find out more about Steven and the climb in the video below, which comes our way courtesy of ABC News.
Talking Speed Climbs With Alex Honnold
In the interview, Alex talks about training with Ueli Steck for a speed run on The Nose, but when that fell apart, mostly out of lack of interest, he found himself in good shape and ready to take on some big challenges, hence the series of climbs he made in Yosemite back in June and July. He also talks about the challenges of climbing El Capitan, which he spent a lot of time on this summer, as well as his love for climbing in Yosemite in general.
It's a brief, but excellent interview, with good insights from a guy who is one of the top climbers in the world. As for what he's got planned for the future, he doesn't give too much away, but Alex does say that climbing a big wall like the Nose has him interested and inspired to possibly go to the Himalaya or Patagonia and tackle some of the massive rock faces there in solo fashion.
Reading this, Alex comes across as a very humble guy who just enjoys doing what he is doing.
Alex Honnold Up To His Old Tricks
Climbing.com is reporting that Honnold, along with climbing partner Sean Leary, linked up three routes in Yosemite, climbing the Nose, Salathé Wall, and Lurking Fear all in one day. The climb began at 8 PM, and the dynamic duo knocked off the Nose in just 4 hours and 15 minutes. From there it was on to Salathé, which they reportedly conquered in six hours, before moving on to the Lurking Fear route.
Climbing doesn't give a time for Lurking Fear, but they note that Alex and Sean were seen eating pizza in Curry Village the following evening at 8 PM, which means that they managed to climb 85 pitches spread out over 2400 meters (7875 feet), in less than 24 hours time.
Thanks to the Goat for the head's up on this story.
Alex Honnold Sets New Half Dome and El Cap Speed Records
Honnold began his assault on the record books by scaling the Northwest Face route on Half Dome in just 2 hours and 9 minutes, which shaves 41 minutes off the old record. He then proceeded to go directly to the Nose on El Cap, which he scaled in just under six hours, giving him a new record for the combined climb of both routes. Essentially, he did them in just 8 hours total. Amazing!
Honnold's climbing buddy Ueli Steck was on hand to observe the proceedings. Apparently the two are still planning on making a speed attempt on the Nose as well, although we haven't had a lot of updates on their progress in the past month. That record currently stands at 2 hours 37 minutes and was set last October by Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayma.
More Climbing Vids: Free Climbing El Cap?
Speaking of cool climbing vids, these two come our way courtesy of The Backcountry Goat Blog and Climbing Narc. The two part video, both of which are found below, show Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson working a new route on the Southeast face of El Capitan in Yosemite. Caldwell is hoping to free climb the route, which requires new pitches in the 5.13 to 5.14 difficulty range. This is a project he has been working on for some time, and isn't sure is possible to complete. More good stuff on video!
VIDEO Part 1: BD athletes Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson attempting to free El Cap's hardest climb from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.
VIDEO Part 2: BD athletes Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson attempting to free El Cap's hardest climb from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.
Awesome Video of Speed Record on the Nose
Earlier this year climbers Hans Florine and Yuji Hiriyama set a new speed record on The Nose, perhaps the most well known and iconic climbing route on El Capitan in Yosemite. The twosome scaled the face in just 2 hours, 37 minutes, 5 seconds, besting their old record by more than six minutes in the process.
Now, you can check out these two rock stars doing their thing, thanks to some great video over at Climbing.com. The videos are part of their new Master's of Stone series, and there are currently three videos in place showing the climb at various stages.
It's very impressive to watch Hans and Yuji go to work. They aren't flying up the wall by any means, but instead are going at a steady pace, focused on their work, and continuing to move nearly at all times. The results speak for themselves, as they can manage to take down one of the world's top big walls in a little more than two and a half hours. When the 2900 foot Nose was first climbed back in 1958, it required a team to spend 47 days on the rock to reach the top.
New Speed Record On The Nose, Again!
Hans Florine and Yuji Hiriyama, who already held the speed record on The Nose route of El Capitan in Yosemite, have broken their own record according to various reports on the web, including this one over at About.com.
According to the article, the dynamic duo of rock climbing took just 2 hours 37 minutes and 5 seconds. That's six minutes faster than their old record set back in July. Yuji lead all the pitches once again, with Hans following along, taking care of the gear, and simul-climbing with his partner.
The 2900 foot face of The Nose is one of the most iconic climbs in the entire sport. It was first completed back in 1958, by a team that spent 47 days on the face. They approached it much the way that big mountain climbers in the Himalaya would, establishing camps along the face and laying siege to the mountain. In 1960, the second ascent was put up, and took just 7 days, as the team, led by Royal Robbins, completed the first non-stop climb. It took until 1975 before the first single day climb of The Nose was completed, and even now, it traditionally takes most climbers a couple of days to complete.
I wonder what those first climbers would think about a pair doing it in under three hours. Obviously equipment has improved, and new techniques haven't been developed, but that's some serious time to shave off in just 50 years. Impressive work, and once again, congrats to Hans and Yuji.