EuropaFb: Dress

I have been fascinated with the Orient Bambino for some time. It was just the last year that the interest started to bloom more vigorously. The launch of version 4 of the Bambino series was the trigger that made me decide to get one.

Orient launched the version 4 in the first half of 2016 herald the fourth iteration of the classic Bambino collection by Orient. It is the first Bambino model to use the new automatic in-house Orient Caliber F67 type movement. It also has a number of changes from previous models.

The signature domed crystal is still there. However, unlike the previous models, the hour markers are rounded and diamond shaped. The hands are a lot thinner and the seconds hand has its tip painted red. It is also slightly larger, from the previous standard of 40.5 mm width on earlier versions to becoming 41.5 mm wide in this latest iteration. Concurrently, the lugs have also shifted wider to a more generic 22 mm from the previous 21 mm. Meanwhile, thickness is at 11.8 mm.

The version 4 is also the first Bambino to use the new automatic in-house Orient Caliber F67 movement. This is a new movement that has upgraded features, such as hacking and hand-winding. More about this later in the review.

There are three options to choose from. I was rather smitten by the midnight blue sunburst dial so I chose the model reference FAC08004D0. It was not hard to find in Kuala Lumpur and my supplier from Solar Time was able to source one almost immediately.

This is the FAC08002F0 with the gold plated casing and green dial

This is the FAC08003A0 with the polished stainless steel casing and grey dial

Before I start the in-depth review, I would like to mention a peculiar aspect of the Bambino series. If you were to look for reference in Orient’s main website, www.orient-watch.com, you won’t find any information on this particular watch (as at 16 December 2016). However, if you were to look at the regional orient website from USA, www.orientwatchusa.com, you will find reference to the version 4. This peculiarity has been noted and discussed in a number of watch forums but no satisfactory answers were put forth. I guess this is a particular quirk of Orient which gives that lure of mystery to the brand. Similar to the issue of Seiko of not having a dedicated website for the complete Seiko 5 offering (Orient is owned by Seiko….I suppose following the same mysterious strategy).

This latest version of the Bambino retains all the charm that makes it a classical timepiece. Positioned as a formal dress watch, it has the wrist presence that belies its price point and attains cult status that even more established and more expensive brands find hard to muster.

The jewel in the crown has to be the dial. The dial is a blue sunburst with a black edge. The texture of the blue dial is very versatile; it shifts from fairly dark to metallic blue in the right light and angle.

As this is my first Bambino, it would not be fair for me to pass judgment on it when compared with previous models. Suffice to say I will only describe the watch as I see it.

There are five lines of texts and logo on the dial. The main logo as well as the brand and the words “Automatic” are located on the top half of the dial. The other two lines of text, “Water Resistant” (in readable font) and a series of manufacturing coding (in very small font - near the peripheral of the dial) are located on the bottom half of the dial. There is a date aperture with a white border line located at 3 o’clock. The date wheel chosen by Orient has black numbers over a white background. I am quite happy that Orient decided against replacing completely the 3 o’clock marker with the date aperture. Although the marker had to be reduced in length slightly, it still provides the necessary balance and symmetry.

Protecting the dial surface is a domed mineral glass crystal. I am fine with this material though a number of people have wished that sapphire crystal was used instead. From an aesthetic point of view, sapphire crystal would be cool but it can cause a key essence of the Bambino, a value-for-money watch, to disappear. Affordability has always been the watch’s call to fame.

The crown is a simple push/pull mechanism with polished surface. It has three positions; safe (flush with the case) – allows manual winding; first position (one notch out) – adjust the quickset date, and; second position (two notches out) – adjust the time with hacking function.

The watch is paired with a leather strap with a similar blue colour scheme, on the sides and back. A simple signed buckle is used. If given the option, a nice deployment clasp would make it look even more regal. With the new 22 mm wide lug width, owners can now freely choose to accessorise the watch with countless other types of straps available in the market. I personally am not into the habit of changing straps often but I can see the opportunity that presents itself to owners that do love to change straps.

The F67 caliber is a 22 jewel automatic movement with a date complication. It has a seconds hand halt mechanism and capable of hand winding. Operating at 21,600 BPH or 3 Hertz, the main springs is capable of retaining more than 40 hours of power reserve. The manufacturer warranty states the caliber has an error rate of a maximum of +25 seconds to -15 seconds per day. Unfortunately, there is no display case-back to see the movement in action.

On the solid case-back, apart from some etching on the centre, some basic information is also made available. The case-back uses a screw-down system. The watch has a water resistance rating of 3 ATM or 30 meters.

The Wearing Experience

The watch feels rich and sophisticated. It feels like how a middle age James Bond 007 can get the best of men half his age when it comes to skills, agility and endurance (yes, I know, it is just a movie but don’t you ever wish to be 007?). The blue dial is mesmerizing and the way it reflect light is very attractive.

The leather is rather stiff right from the box. It takes a few days of wearing to soften up nicely. Below is a video of the watch on my wrist.

The listed price in Malaysia is RM930 but I was able to get it for RM650. From a value point of view, this pricing is just ridiculously low. It is hard to imagine Orient able to make something as beautiful as the Bambino and priced it at this level (inclusive of profit margin!). They did and we should be thankful to them for it.

Overall, a must have for anyone that loves watches.

Photo Gallery

This is my first tonneau shaped wristwatch. The Orient Star Open Heart Tonneau with reference number DAAA004W (or WZ0121DA in Japan) has a vertical cross-section barrel shaped casing seldom used by watch manufacturers due to a number of reasons. It has the classical aura of a formal timepiece which I find very appealing. This particular model was released back in April 2014.

Age must be getting to me. During the start of my watch collection hobby I was keened on dive or sports watches. Formal or dress wristwatches were seldom in my radar. However, in recent times, my interest in dress watches started to grow and I have been shifting my focus towards that genre ever since.

The Orient Star Open Heart Tonneau is a stainless steel construction with polished and brushed surfaces. It has mirror finished top surface and a matte finished side. It has a curved sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflection coating protecting the dial and a flat crystal glass as a display case-back. The case-back panel is attached to the watch casing via four screws. The signed push-in crown is located at 3 o’clock and the watch comes with a power reserve complication. It is powered by an automatic engine that can be manually wound. The wristwatch is paired with a black matte calf leather strap with crocodile embossing and signed buckle.

The dimensions of the watch are rather on the higher side relative to other formal timepieces. It is 47.00 mm long and 37.00 mm wide. It has a varying thickness from just 9.75 mm at the edge up to 13.00 mm at the center of the watch. This is caused by the curved sapphire crystal glass. As such, the length coupled with the height makes it sit high on the wrist. Those with smaller wrist may find wearing this watch rather awkward. Meanwhile, the lug size is a rather unique 23.00 mm wide. Nevertheless, a 22 mm after-market strap fits in nicely. Overall, the watch weighs in at 82 grams.

The dial is all white. It has an area bordered by the hour markers with embossed vertical stripes. The markers at the 12 o’clock and the 6 o’clock are substituted with Roman numerals. There is no marker for the 9 o’clock position. Instead, a circular aperture traced with polished stainless steel which allows one to view the escapement mechanism on the movement is positioned there. This is the open-heart designed incorporated into this particular model.

Just below the 12 o’clock is the power reserve indicator. The scale is in hours from 0 to a maximum of 40 hours in 10 hour increments. The hand for the power reserve indicator is not painted with luminous paint.

The watch comes with the standard 3 hands. Both the hour and minute hands have sections painted with luminous paint. At the end of each marker, closer to the edge of the dial, a dot with luminous paint was also added for ease of referencing in the dark.

On the dial there are only two rows of text plus a logo. All of these are located on the bottom half of the dial. The Orient Star logo as well as in name are made out of polished stainless steel. The second row of text is the words “JAPAN” as well as some production codes in very small font size. In recent times, watch makers are more often than not put a lot of information on the dial. For a dress watch, this is not the direction that manufacturers should follow. Instead, a minimal amount of text on the dial is preferable.

The signed crown has the Orient Star logo stamped on its top. It has a nice polished surface and gear tooth sides to facilitate grip. Meanwhile, the lugs have pass-through pinholes. The traditional way of trying to maneuver the strap changing tool could cause it to accidentally scratched the surface of the watch. By having the pass-through pinholes, it helps facilitates an easy strap changing experience with small likelihood of ‘accidents’. I definitely endorse this style of lug design.

The back of the watch is where you can see the magic happening. The display case-back with a circular crystal glass window is fixed in place with four screws. Around the viewing port, some basic information about the watch is printed on. Note the water rating of 5 ATM or 50 meters for this model.

Through the display case-back you can see the Orient Caliber 40R54 at work. This made in Japan movement is totally designed as built in-house by Orient. It is an automatic movement with hand winding capabilities. It has a built-in clutch to engage a halt mechanism for the second hand when adjusting the time. This clutch is engaged when the crown is pulled out of its rest position. The watch can be manually wound when in the rest position.

The Caliber 40R54 has 22 jewels and operates at the 21,600 VPH or 3 Hertz range. It has a reported daily accuracy of between +25 to -15 seconds per day. The main spring is capable of retaining more than 40 hours of power which is recorded on the power reserve scale. From the photo above, the movement is decorated.

For this particular model, the standard strap provided is adequate. It is able to support wrists with circumference of between 140 mm to 190 mm. The signed buckle is unique and gives that added sophistication and exclusiveness. Nevertheless, I would like to recommend to Orient to upgrade the simple buckle system to either a deployant clasp or a butterfly clasp instead. Due to the weight of the watch, there is a possibility that the watch could slip from the grasp of the wearer at the point of putting it on or taking it off. A deployant clasp or a butterfly clasp reduces this likelihood considerably as it acts like a metal bracelet, keeping both strap ends attached even when putting it on or taking it off the wrist.

The Wearing Experience

The calf leather is soft with a little hint of stiffness straight from the box. After less than a day of wearing, the leather strap has become supple and comfortable on the wrist.

As highlighted earlier, the watch is rather long. If you do have small wrists, you may find the lug ends to be hanging over your wrist. Even with my 7.25 inch circumference wrist, the watch just barely rest completely on the skin. The curved sapphire crystal creates an illusion that the watch is also ‘curved’. In reality, it wears like a round watch with a diameter of 47 mm!

Visually, an open heart aperture is only an attraction to be if it is located in the correct position. To me, form is everything and without the correct symmetry, it has limited value. In this particular example, the location of the aperture does not provide the symmetry that is desirable. A better location would be at the 6 o’clock position to balance the power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. Some internal restructuring of the movement would have to be made to enable the new location to display the escapement mechanism. As it stands, I am fine if there is no aperture at all. A clean white dial with just the power reserve indicator is just nice for a dress watch.

Below is a short video of the watch on my wrist.

Options in This Series

There are there other models that make up this series. Below is a snapshot of the options plus the reference numbers.

DAAA003B/WZ0151DA

DAAA001W/WZ0141DA

DAAA002T/WZ0131DA

The Purchasing Experience

I got this watch from Solar Time in Mid Valley Megamall. The MSRP on this watch was RM2,438 (inclusive of the 6% GST). The purchase price was RM1,760. With this purchase I was also given a nice folding pouch bag by Orient as a free gift.