Showing posts with label Chronograph. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chronograph. Show all posts

Seiko Spirit Chronograph Giugiaro Design 'Ripley Aliens' Limited Edition SCED041 - Cute and Quirky Timepiece that Speaks Volume, A Review (plus Video)

Designed by the Italian designer, Giorgetto Giugiaro, the Seiko Giugiaro 7A28-7000 is an asymmetric chronograph first seen in the movie Aliens. In fact, this watch was one of the first of the collaboration between the two powerhouses using the 7A28 movement. This caliber is famous as being the first analogue quartz chronograph movement in the world. The year was 1983. It was only in 1986 with the release of the movie 'Aliens' did the watch became insanely famous.

When it was announced in 2016 of the reissue, I was initially interested. However, the urge waned as I was more interested in mechanical watches (On hindsight, I didn't realised that I was turning into a typical 'mechanical watch snob' - everything not mechanical considered trash. Fortunately, I saw the light to the correct path for a horologist). 

The Seiko Giugiaro 'Ripley Aliens' reissues are all limited edition pieces. Due to the indecisiveness, I missed out a lot of the models on sale. I thought I would never get the chance to get one until I saw an offer by SeiyaJapan. The model reference was SCED041 and I quickly made the order. This is the second Giugiaro designed watch in the collection.
The SCED041 has a black stainless steel case with matching bracelet. The black paint is PVD coated. However, the rectangle pusher housing is polished stainless steel. Measuring 41.8 mm tall, 42.2 mm wide and a thickness of 10.8 mm, this model is limited to 2,000 examples only. The dial is protected by Hardlex crystal. Made in 2016, the watch weighs in at 113 grams total.


Other major characteristics of the watch are: (a) It is made in China (b) It has a simple deployment clasp (c) It uses the Seiko Caliber 7T12 Chronograph movement (d) Listed price of YEN38,800 (e) Bracelet capable of supporting up to maximum wrist size of 195 mm or 7.7 inch (f) 100 meter water rating (g) Battery life of 5 years (h) Manufacturer's stated accuracy of +15/-15 seconds per month.

The SCED041 is not strictly a reproduction of the original 7A28-7000 series but an adaptation. There are a number of differences that differentiate it from the original. Since there are a lot of reviews written about the differences, I shall refrain from spending too much time highlighting them. If you want to know more, do visit some of the reviews for the required information. 



The Back Story 

Giugiro Design is synonymous with Mr Giorgetto Giugiaro, an Italian automotive designer who created many iconic cars, such as various Alfa Romeos, the 1977 BMW M1 and the DeLorean. In 1983, Seiko in collaboration with Giugiaro released a series of motoring watches under the 'Speedmaster' moniker. Created from a fertile mind of a futurist, the watches were either liked with a passion or loath with a vengeance. There were only the two extremes when it came to opinions. 

It was only after one of the designs was used by the lead character of the movie 'Aliens' in 1986 did it became famous. The very industrial style of the 7A28-7000 watch blend in nicely with the concept of the movie and that what made it feel 'natural'. People started to take notice of it almost immediately.


The Casing

As highlighted earlier, you either love the design or you hate it. In my case, I love the design due purely to it quirkiness. From a design standpoint, there are a lot of inefficient characteristics which can be simplified or made more ergonomically better. However, once you think like a futurist, you would start to appreciate what Giugiaro was trying to accomplish with this project. I believe the message that he want to tell is that we humans, if we continue to pursue creating mega industrial businesses as the only reason to being human, future products will no longer be made to our requirements but rather on what the industrial complex wants to make. In the future, it is the industry that dictates wants and needs instead of humans. A bleak future for mankind but let's hope it doesn't come to this.


Closely sharing the same case design of the 1983 original, the watch is modestly proportions. Measuring 41.8 mm (tall),  42.2 mm (wide) and 10.8 mm (thick), it sits nicely of an average sized wrist. The rectangle housing on the right side of the watch casing creates an illusion of a large watch but in reality it wears well. Moreover, the choice of not painting the rectangle pusher housing black reduces the size impression somewhat.

The main case is a monoblock construction with a snap-on case back. It has a step-up dial lip that creates a strong circular element to the design. Coupled with the short hooded lugs, the designer is able to create a watch that can sit squarely on any wrist by reducing the possibility of any lug overhang. The rectangle box that contains the pusher housing is bolted on to the right side with two large hex screws straddling the crown. In the push-in position, the crown is well protected as it is tucked inside the housing. Unfortunately, I feel the crown to be a bit small. Measuring just 4.5 mm across, it is difficult to use if you have stubby fingers.



The flat Hardlex crystal that protects the dial sits slightly above the dial lip. I would have preferred it to be flushed with the dial lip to reduce the possibility of a side impact. 

The primary purpose of the rectangular housing is to create the necessary space to add a special mechanism to redirect the pushers vertically. Mechanically, the push rods are located at the 2 o'clock and 4 o'clock positions. However, the ecstatic of the design requires a special mechanism to rearrange the pushers motion alignment. Unfortunately, the additional complication makes the pushers less sensitive that what you would expect of pushers on a typical Seiko chronograph. The fact that the pushers feel loose due to the substantial gap between the pusher caps and the pusher slot, makes for a poor chronograph experience. Although a lot of reviewers highlighted this problem, I find it impossible to believe that Seiko would allow such 'poor' quality control. If my assessment is correct on the design concept, I believe this was done (the pusher issue) on purpose to reflect the fact that humans are no longer in control. In the future, it is no longer what we want that is important. In the future, we may no longer have a choice. Philosophically, this is deep.

 


The Dial

The dial of the SCED041 also stays very close to the original. The dials consists of two surfaces and a chapter ring.

The sloping chapter ring is painted black and consist of a Tachymeter scale in white. With this scale, one can use the stopwatch to determine how many seconds it takes to go 1 km or 1 mile and use the corresponding scale to indicate the speed of travel.

The top surface is white and features a black index scale. The index features large rectangles for the hours, smaller lines for the minutes and seconds, and very small lines for the 1/5th seconds. The SCED041 features a quartz movement that does tick at 1/5th second intervals, which makes the scaling useful to some extent.

The lower surface is seen through a large partial-circle cutout in the upper white surface. Black in colour, it creates a nice contrast to the white. On this surface at 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock are sub-dials for the 24 hours, 60 minute counter and active seconds, respectively. There is also a date aperture at the sub-dial at 3 o'clock with a white on black date wheel. If given a choice, I would replace the 24 hours hand with a normal chrono hour-counter.

The hour and minute hands are black with white lines running down their middle. No luminous paint is used throughout the dial. Meanwhile, the chrono-seconds hand is a thin stick in black. Two interesting aspects of the chrono-seconds hand is that (one) it looks like it stays very thin as it passes through the center of the watch, but it actually connects to a white disk, and (two) as the chrono-seconds hand moves over the hours and minutes hands, it appears to merge or disappear as the black chrono-seconds hand covers the centre white lines of the other two hands.


The Bracelet

The SCED041 comes with a unique steel bracelet that is very close to the original. Again, it's a love or hate to most people. I guess those that hate it could be due to two factors. The complexity of resizing the bracelet and the overall feel of it. Those that love it could also be due to two factors. The clean look of the links and its pure uniqueness.



The bracelet is very steampunk yet industrial. It starts at the lugs with a width of 18 mm. The bracelet then spreads immediately to 20 mm before slowly tapering back down to 18 mm at the clasp.

Each links are thin rectangles, each with 3 square slots for esthetics. Each link consist of an outer folded shell, an inner sheet and a separate hidden hinge piece. Since the links are hinged at the back, it gives each link a very clean look. Using the technique of folding metal creates a vintage feel to the bracelet.

It is here where opinions differs considerably. On one side of the fence, the 'vintage' style manufacturing process of the bracelet seems cheap and flimsy whereas the other side of the fence find it very true to the original.



Resizing the bracelet is a lot different than resizing a typical Seiko bracelet. Instead of a typical 'pin-and-collar' system, the bracelet on the SCED041 has a sliding plate that needs to be removed (similar to a pin). An additional step of removing the hinge pieces left and right of the link that is to be removed is required before it can be completely separated. This makes it rather tedious. This factor also polarized opinions. Some welcome the resizing complication while some frown on it.



When I was resizing the bracelet, despite being gentle, I did scratch a bit of the paint. The fact is that it is very difficult to not scratch since you need tools and some effort to dislodge the sliding plate.


The Movement

The case-back is solid and is a snap-in instead of a screw-down. Underneath the polished case-back is Seiko's 7T12 quartz chronograph caliber. This movement has time functions such as 24-hours, hours, minutes, small seconds; calendar function such a date wheel; stopwatch functions such as measures up to 60 minutes in 1/5th of a second increments as well as split time measurement.


The 7T12 has the following specifications:
1 Frequency of crystal oscillator: 32,768 Hz
2 Loss/gain (monthly rate): ±15 seconds at normal temperature range (between 5° C and 35° C)
3 Operational temperature range: Between –10° C and +60° C
4 Driving system: 3 step motors
5 Battery: 1 Seiko SR927SW
6 Energy reserve: average 5 years if the stopwatch is used less than 2 hours per day

Replacing the battery will need some care due to the black PVD coated case. As the case-back is snap-in design, the need to use a prying blade increases the possibility of scratching the paint. It would be interesting to note how a Seiko technician would tackle this risk. I suspect Seiko must have a unique tool to overcome this problem. If anyone knows anything about this, please feel free to put a note on it in the comment section below.
This is also the first quartz chronograph movement from Seiko in the collection.


The Packaging

For a limited edition piece, the packaging appears very simple and generic. I half expected something more ornate to reflect its association to a movie classic. I guess Seiko did not have a commercial arrangement with the movie 'Aliens' hence the lack of any explicit movie tie-in.

The manual is just a large thin printed sheet folded neatly into a 7 cm by 3.5 cm booklet.


The Price

I bought the watch from SeiyaJapan. Based on a coupon that I have, I was able to get it for USD308.75 (listed price USD325.00) or RM1,312.59 (plus a further RM100.05 for taxes). The manual for the watch is attached at the end of this review.

The MSRP for the watch is YEN36,000 (before taxes).

As highlighted earlier, the SCED041is limited to just 2,000 units. I got number 1748/2000.


The Wearing Experience

At 113 grams, the watch is very light compared to most of my other watches. It wears well on the wrist, despite the rectangle pusher housing extending the width by an addition few millimeters to the right. Although, the watch casing is asymmetrical along the lugs axis, it does not affect balance due to the light weight of the watch. Wearing the watch on the left wrist or the right wrist is also not an issue.



As the corners of the bracelet links are not beveled, you do feel some sharpness along the edge. This increases the possibility of nicks and bumps appearing along the edge of the bracelet. Luckily, the edges of the watch casing are beveled. Below is the watch on my wrist.

Below is a video of the watch on my wrist. 




Conclusion

Having an industrial feel and unique at the same time is special. The SCED041 is iconic in that it was able to connect and resonate with a lot of people about the future. The brilliance of Mr. Giorgetto Giugiaro by incorporating futuristic expectations in a design that goes against the conventional ideas of 'quality' is commendable. Hats off to Seiko to buy into the idea and bankrolled the project. 

The SCED041 is a cute and quirky timepiece that speaks volume. Granted it feels 'cheap' but for USD300 and a bit, with big names such as Seiko and Giugiaro plus the famous movie tie-in associated with the watch, its worth it.

My only regret was not committing to the purchase when Seiko first announced the reinterpretation of the 'Ripley Watch'. I would have preferred the SCED035 with its matte steel surface (similar to the original 7A28-7000) instead of the black PVD and polished surface combination of the SCED041.





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Seiko Prospex SBEC001 TRANSOCEAN 200 meter Chronograph Diver (similar to SBEC002 and SBEC003) - A Boardroom Quality Tool Watch, A Review (plus Videos)


Earlier this year, Seiko announced a series of new watches under the Prospex line. A new sub-line of Prospex called the Transocean Series was created by Seiko to bridge the quality gap between the more tool-like Prospex line and the more refined Grand Seiko line.

I was fortunate enough to be able to grab the SBDC039 when I visited Japan in June of this year. I was actually very impressed with the finishing quality of the watch. Read the full review of that watch here: SEIKO Transocean SBDC039 Dive Watch - A Chic Executive Watch With Elegance Yet Capable Of Extreme Adventure, A Review. Since I have written about the philosophy behind the new Transocean Series, I will dispense from it up again in this review. If you want to know more, read my review on the SBDC039.

About the same time, Seiko announced a new model under this sub-line which would incorporate a new mechanical chronograph movement with the designation 8R49. The SBEC001 (as well as the SBEC002 and SBEC003) was expected to be released on 8 July 2016.



This got me excited as I have yet to add in a Seiko mechanical chronograph movement into my collection thus far. After a lot of searching (the unit was sold out in many places) I finally was able to land one through my long-time watch agent.



The SBEC001 is a chunky watch. With a width of 46.5 mm (excluding crown), it is a watch that not everyone can carry confidently. Its lug-to-lug length of 53 mm can cause an overhang for smaller wrists. Moreover, the addition of a chronograph function makes it a tall watch at 16 mm. All this makes the SBEC001 a watch more suited to the outdoors instead of boardrooms.



Two core elements were used in this watch, stainless steel and black zirconia ceramic. The latter is the material that makes up the unidirectional bezel as well as the top of the crown. Coupled with Seiko's special "DiaShield" coating (super scratch-resistant and ultra-tough) and "Zarastu" polishing technique, the surface of the watch is unbelievably smooth. The dial is protected by a flat Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface.

The ceramic bezel has an illuminated pip at 12 o’clock as required of dive watches under the ISO 6425 divers’ watch international standard. This pip is located in a triangular pilot watch-like marker. There are minute markers around the bezel with Arabic numbering at every 10th minutes except for the 10 minute and 60 minute marks.



The SBEC001 comes with a full DiaShield coated steel bracelet with a double-locking divers clasp with push button release and divers extension. This bracelet design is new and is more angular than the typical bracelets used by Seiko. It is specially suited to the unique lug design based on a central lug concept instead of a pair of corner lugs. This makes it difficult to find strap replacements.

There are two schools of though about this. On one extreme, proponents are dead set against this styling as it does not provide strap options like other typical watches. I, on the other hand, is more on the other extreme where it does not matter at all. To me, making sure the watch remain stock standard is more critical to preserve originality.



Apart from this particular 'uniqueness', the lugs have pass-through holes that facilitate easier engagement of the spring-bars. Using the traditional pin-and-collar friction system to connect the bracelet links, the watch comes four micro-adjustment points on the clasp to make for a perfect adjustment. 




Due to the size and the material used in the making of the watch, it weights in at a hefty 242 grams.

The dial has a black textured surface. This watch has six hands and three sub-dials arranged in the typical 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions. The seconds sub-dial is located at the 3 o'clock position. The 12 hours chronograph timer is located at the 6 o'clock position while the 30 minutes chronograph timer is located at the 9 o'clock position. The date aperture is located between 4 o'clock and 5 o'clock. The date wheel has the date in white on a dark background. This help it blend nicely with the black dial. Moreover, no markers were sacrificed for the aperture which I can appreciate immensely. Meanwhile, the crown and chronograph pushers are located on the right side of the casing.

There are minute markers (finer 1/5 of a minute sub-markers are also included) located along the chapter ring while the main hour markers are located on the dial itself. All the hour marker are painted with liberal amount of luminous LumiBrite paint.

The hands for the two chronograph timer sub-dials are simple hands painted in white paint. The hand on the seconds sub-dial is more elaborate with a rounded weight at the hilt and a dagger-like shape on the other end. It is also painted white except for the rounded weight where it is painted with LimiBrite. The main minutes hand has a broadsword designed while the hours hand has the arrow shaped design. Both are painted with Lumibrite with edges left bare. Meanwhile, the chronograph seconds hand is as thin as a foil sword and painted black (the back third) and gold (front two thirds).

There are seven lines of text. On the center-line there are four lines; the brand name, the Prospex logo,  the watch genre and water rating, and (in very small print) the manufacturing reference in code. Inside the seconds sub-dial is the fifth line of text which highlights the type of calibre, "AUTOMATIC". The sixth and seventh are the scales for the chronograph timer sub-dials.

As a dive watch, the SBEC001 is capable of diving down to 200 meters of water pressure. To ensure it is able to dive to such a depth, the crown is a screw-down as well as the case-back. Since this watch is also a chronograph, the two chronograph-pushers also have a screw-down function to eliminate any potential water ingress. However, to engage the screw-down function for the chronograph-pushers, one has to screw it OUT of the watch casing to LOCK.

The watch is also advertised to have anti-magnetic protection system in place. It has a magnetic resistance of up to 4,800A/m.



The solid screw-down case-back has the iconic Prospex Tsunami logo in the centre. Basic information about the watch is etched around the logo.

The movement is the 8R49, which is a vertical clutch and column wheel chronograph designed and manufactured solely in-house by Seiko.  There are 34 jewels and a power reserve of at least 45 hours. It operates in the 28,800 VPH frequency (or 4 Hertz). The Caliber is an automatic movement with manual winding mechanism (seconds hand stop function when adjusting the time). It has a reported accuracy of -15 to +25 seconds per day although in reality it is much better than that. Its functions include: a date aperture, a chronograph up to 12 hours with 30 minutes increments and a seconds sub-dial.

The 8R49 is the latest movement by Seiko. The SBEC001 is the first watch by Seiko to have this new movement. Below is the movement of the sub-seconds hand.



Below is the manual for the watch. Please note that the English version is on the second half of the document.

Manual: Seiko Prospex SBEC001 TRANSOCEAN 200 meter Chronograph Diver (8R49 movement) on Scribd (the English version is on the second half of the document)



The Series
  1. SBEC001 is the standard production run stainless steel model with black dial
  2. SBEC002 is the standard production run black coated stainless steel model with rose gold pusher and crown panel
  3. SBEC003 is the limited edition stainless steel model with blue dial

The Wearing Experience

The watch has the shine that is seldom seen in any stainless steel watch apart from Rolex’s 904L. The special DiaShield coating to protect the surface of the watch from normal wear-and-tear has the added benefit of providing a clear glass-like exterior finish to the base metal. The SBEC001 is definitely designed to be more presentable than a tool watch.




Adjusting the watch is uncomplicated. Unscrewing the main crown which is protected by a couple of shoulders protruding out of the watch casing puts it in position one. In this position, the watch can be manually wound up. Pulling the crown further to position two give you access to adjust the date. The last position, position three is where adjustment of the main hands is done. At this position, the seconds sub-hand will stop (hacking).



Unlike the previous Seiko Prospex dive watches, the crown on the SBEC001 easily catches the thread inside the watch casing when screwing down to lock without needing to try for a couple of times. This has always been a complaint especially by owners who happened to also own Swiss branded dive watches that do not have such an issue.

The chronograph pushers are easily manipulated. It has a nice ‘trigger-pull’ effect where it will engage only when a certain pressure on the button is exceeded (somewhere along the line of 2lb of force is required for the pushers to engage). The reset is quick, precise and consistent. The alignment is also perfect through visual inspection. The only quirkiness is the water ingress protection system utilized for this watch. The locking screws are to be engage away from the casing instead of towards the casing like the crown. This needs getting used to.



The watch is weighty and tall. Surprisingly, despite the extreme dimensions, it has no problem pairing itself with formal attire. The ceramic bezel is a major help as it allows the watch to slip in and out of shirt cuffs smoothly. Come to think of it, I have to correct myself – this watch is well suited for the boardroom.

I find it to be comfortable on the wrist despite its size and weight. Even with the pushers and crown on the right side of the casing, due to the height of the watch, one would not face any issue of the pushers and crown pinching into one’s hand or skin when flexing the wrist.

The ceramic bezel is a 120-click unidirectional that is smooth without any looseness. It is kept in place using two small screws at the side near the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock position.

As mentioned earlier, the bracelet is unique. The width of the bracelet tapers down from the lug area to 20 mm at the clasp. I like the more angular design of this bracelet compared to the other previous stainless steel bracelets used in earlier Prospex watches. It feels more modern and sophisticated.

Overall, I like the watch immensely. Originally I had some reservations when I ordered it as I was keener to have the 8R49 movement instead of the watch itself. However, after seeing it in real life, it is a stunner.

Below is a video of the watch on my wrist.





The Un-boxing

The packaging for the watch comes in two parts. The outer covering is a cardboard box in black with the logo printed in silver at the top. At the bottom is printed information about the watch box and the fact that is made in Japan. The part of the package measures 16 cm long by 12.5 cm wide and 10 cm tall.



Inside this box is the main watch box which is also in black. Having the same length and width as the outer box, it is however on 8 cm tall. The difference in height is taken up by a small sleeve which holds the guarantee document and manual. The main watch box is also painted black and hinged at the back. At the top of the watch is printed the words ‘SEIKO’ and ‘PROSPEX’ as well as sub-brand logo in silver.



 Flipping the top open reveals the SBEC001 sitting on a pillow in the centre.



Free Gift

My AD was nice enough to give me a gift of a watch winder by Beco Technic of Germany. More about this watch winder in dedicated review later.




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