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| Mark snorkeling at Virgin Gorda's Baths |
The journey from St. Maarten to Turks and Caicos has brought Jon and Jen very close to completing their trip around the world. On this leg, Jon’s brother Mark, who is writing this blog entry, and his daughter Maggie spent two weeks heading east enjoying their first oceanic voyage. After all four of us flew together to St. Maarten (southern Dutch side) and spent a day preparing the boat, we headed north for a night anchored off St. Martin (French side), where the previous blog entry left off. A blaring few overnight hours of musical thump from the onshore bars kept us awake and on the next day the guests had their first real snorkeling jaunt near Grand Case. The trek then continued in earnest with a mostly overnight 90 mile sail/motor to anchor off Spanishtown, British Virgin Islands. The sun was strong and it was literally and figuratively cool to later dinghy at The Baths, a famous beach area with spectacular rock formations and excellent snorkeling. Marine eye candy abounded as we all flippered and hiked about the popular park.
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| A glassy sea, en route to Turks and Caicos |
The next morning we began a short motor to Jost Van Dyke, during which time Jen called out “whale!” – after which we all looked quickly enough to see the cooperating mammal off our starboard bow. Just after lunch we anchored in the thin, crowded boat parking lot immediately offshore, where the water was clear enough and the shore close enough for us to swim ashore to the Soggy Dollar oceanside bar (with inflation and tourist pricing the bar should really change its name to the plural form). Some pub food and boat drinks were enjoyed open air that day before heading out the next morning for the long 500 mile leg to Turks and Caicos. The first day we moved under sail with reasonable winds, as we did with part of the second day. But then the winds faded and by the third day the seas were beyond calm, as we chugged our way over the very deep Puerto Rico trench. Eventually the flat seas resembled a hazy, metallic undulating mirror, something that may be as memorable as the heavy winds that never came.
It is not easy to briefly describe the human element of being on a round-the-clock cruise, even if only for four days and on a roomy, well-equipped vessel. The calmness and experience level that Jon and Jen possess made the journey enjoyable and even possible. As we approached Turks and Caicos Islands (TCI) from the south, our arrival across the broad shallow banks made for beautifully colored seas and even included a prolonged escort from a school of dolphins. We briefly anchored in Sapodilla Bay on the south side of Providenciales (known locally as Provo), the main island in the western Caicos Islands, separated by a deep trench, from the eastern Turk Islands. We changed strategies and decided to pull anchor and head for the Southside Marina, after four days in the open seas, and begin another chapter in the voyage with a four-day stay tethered to the docks of Bob’s marina.
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| ile de Grace at capacity ... |
TCI is relatively dry (~15 inches rain/year) and mostly flat, dominated by limestone features that uplifted over time above the surrounding sea. On the next day, Jon and Jen’s longtime friends, the Taylor family, joined the crew. Maggie especially appreciated the new crew as it included the two mates who are nearly her age, and these three younger folks laughed and entertained themselves and their parents. Their presence also set a new occupancy record for the boat and led to sleeping locations probably never before seen. Rental of a van allowed for lots of island options, including scuba diving by most folks, during which time a shark and other fish presented themselves.
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| Maggie, driving the dinghy "Doodlebug" |
Snorkeling along the public north-side beaches was also enjoyed, where the beautiful white sand morphed into an extended coral and grass carpeted sea of beautiful shades of blue, which was then swallowed by the open sea in the distance. On the last day, we took a horseback ride along the beaches, culminating in a romp through the surf, which might technically be called a high speed swim. We met and enjoyed the company of our marina mates and were welcomed by the local natives and residents of this relatively wealthy island. We now return to the suburban, concrete world, healthier than when we left for two weeks in the sun and sea. We are so happy for Jon and Jen as they approach their own sailor’s version of Promontory Summit – the circumnavigation of the world.
