Searching for ancient graffiti in Israel

It’s hot. A haze of heat hangs flat over a copse of hundred-year-old oaks and dry scrubland of the Judean foothills where people may have lived for millennia, but not a soul is around today.


“Don’t worry. The air conditioner is on inside,” jokes Boaz Zissu, a rugged, tall archaeologist with a swagger that makes it easy to conjure up his past as the former commander of the unit for protection of antiquities in Israel.

Shortly later, after clambering through the thicket and fig trees, crawling down steps carved into the earth, we are sitting in the cool, darkened halls of a cave staring at its white limestone walls and trying to decipher the mysterious scratches. 

“It says ‘Christo.’ It’s the name of Jesus but in vocative, like ‘O Jesus,’” says Zissu, pointing out the ancient Greek letters chi and epsilon carved about chest height.

Ancient graffiti, etched into the walls of burial caves, tombs and quarries, is a postcard from the past and gives us a look into the minds of our ascendants. In a way, graffiti is like the Facebook of earlier eras.

“Graffiti are a way of expressing yourself,” says Zissu, today a senior lecturer at Bar Ilan University. “In a period when Internet and blogs didn’t exist and somebody wanted to express himself and to say something they were doing, they did it with a nail on a wall of a cave.”


Graffiti in the modern world are seen by many as vandalism. For others, it’s a sort of pop culture on the boundaries of modern art, never mind that it defaces someone else’s property. But it’s not new. Graffiti has been around since ancient times, ever since ordinary people could write, really. It’s a generally overlooked nuisance for most archaeologists. But for some, it’s another glimpse into the past.

It has been nearly 13 years since Zissu has last visited this cave, and it takes a moment for him to get his bearings. The cool cave was once a home to Byzantine hermits and they left their marks on the walls, which have remarkably remained untouched for 1,500 years.

“I hope to find more inscriptions that I overlooked then,” says Zissu as we scour the cave niches. At the far end we come to a carved cross with the Greek letters delta, alpha nu, iota, eta and lambda. ΔΑΝΙΗΛ. Daniel followed by the name John. It is surrounded by the images of two lions, evoking the biblical story Daniel in the lions’ den.

“We have plenty of depictions of Daniel in the lions’ den because it’s a story of salvation,” Zissu says.