Pieria: In the shadow of the gods

Pieria prefecture, southwest of Thessaloniki in Macedonia, is the epitome of the Greek landscape -- a perfect combination of mountain and sea, hosting not only the country’s highest summit, Mytikas (2,917 meters), on legendary Mount Olympus (or Olympos), but also its longest stretch of beach.

pieria4_390_0902It takes just 45 minutes to descend from Prionia, the base for climbing the mountain of the gods, to the coast. Besides its irresistible allure for mountain lovers, the area also presents considerable archaeological interest, and is therefore suitable for breaks and vacations throughout the year.

The region is bordered to the east by the Thermaic Gulf, with Mt Olympus and the Pieria mountains to the south and west, and the Aliakmon River to the north.

The southern and western parts of the region are mountainous, including the largest part of the Olympus National Park. In contrast, the coastal area is an extensive and fertile valley.

Katerini, the capital of Pieria, 440 kilometers from Athens and 70 km south of Thessaloniki, is one of Greece’s newest towns, established at the end of the 19th century when repatriated Greeks from the area of the Monastery of St Catherine (Aghia Aikaterini) on Mt Sinai in Egypt settled there.

The lush district is dotted with many beautiful small towns and villages. Just 4 kilometers from the sea, on the slopes of Mt Olympus, is the listed settlement of Palaios Panteleimon, about four centuries old. Built by craftsmen from the western region of Epirus skilled in the use of stone (who later also worked in the charming Pilio district to the south), the village --dubbed the “aerie of Olympus” -- blends Macedonian and Epirote architectural traditions. Palaios Panteleimon was gradually abandoned after World War II, but has since been resettled and most of the old houses have been beautifully restored.

Litohoro, with 6,500 inhabitants, remains one of the most representative examples of Macedonian architecture, despite the considerable development spurred by tourism in recent decades.

The old town, set in the shadow of the majestic snow-capped summits at an elevation of 300 meters next to the lush and wild Enipeas river gorge is the most popular base for those exploring the Mt Olympus area. A stroll along its narrow alleyways is like taking a trip into the past: usually two-story houses, with arched wooden lintels over the outer gates and large reception areas where family life is still centered. There are also a few elegant neoclassical buildings, mostly built by local seamen. There are small squares/meeting points and stone water fountains throughout.

Walk up through the town to the Chapel of Aghia Paraskevi, then Aghii Apostoli through the lovely wood and still higher up to the Chapel of Profitis Ilias, from where you have a panoramic view of the entire area, right down to the imposing Crusader castle of Platamonas in the south.

The sprawling archaeological site of Dion, the ancient Macedonian town, is 12 km from Litohoro. Litohoro beach, just a few kilometers away, is a bustling summer resort.

Platamonas, 40 km south of Katerini, is perhaps the most developed summer resort in the area, and has not escaped some of the unsightly excesses this often entails. Greece’s longest sandy beach starts just south of here, at the Pinios (Penios) River estuary.

Twenty-seven kilometers northwest of Katerini, reached via a right turn on the main road to Elassona, is the ski center of Elatohori, in a magnificently lush fir-forested area on the eastern side of the Pieria mountain range. Another right turn further south on the main road, at Fotino, leads into the Fteri valley, a beautiful route through wild chestnut and beech forest, and the small, lovely artificial lake of the same name, via Skotina (or Morna).

South of Fotino, on the main road, you reach Stena Petras. The next village is Aghios Dimitrios, from where a forest road can take you almost to the summit of Mt Olympus.


Author: Haris Argyropoulos | Source: Ekathimerini [February 10, 2011]