"You can't see the forest for the trees". A common expression describing 
how it is often difficult to understand the scale of something when immersed deep within it. The same could be said about Baku's UNESCO listed Old City. While not particularly large (I walk across it in 10 minutes every morning), you tend to feel quite hemmed in when meandering through the narrow alleyways. But I believe that the charm of the old city lies in the sum of it's part as opposed to the whole.It's certainly nice enough to walk along the outer ring of the old city, next
to the city walls. Although it's so completely renovated it hardly resembles it's nearly 1,000 years of history. Still, it is quite photogenic. And of course there are the highlights of the old city, the jointly UNESCO listed Maiden's Tower and Shirvanshah's Palace. The Caravansaray restaurant is worth checking out (though i wouldn't eat there). The central hammam (Turkish bath) and market area look nice just behind the tower. But it's not until you get lost in the labyrinth of side "streets" that
you get to appreciate the local life. As the noise of the busy Baku streets gets blocked off, you're left with the sounds of daily life. Sure, after seeing the 17th pair of granny panties hanging on the line to dry, it might lose some of it's charm. But all the old doors and hanging ivy and wild chickens (beware the chickens) transport you back to time long since forgotten.
For me, though, it's the smaller things that truly 
demonstrate the Old City's charm. The things not listed in the guidebooks. And some things even the locals have no idea about. For example, on a street leading from the Caravansaray restaurant, next to the museum of Contemporary Art is a house marked #17. While a nice enough door, you must look up for the real treat. About half way up is a statue of a couple of children, looking out as if they were on their balcony. But just above that is a cute statue of 3 cats looking back down at you.And then, near the gate behind BakSoviet metro station, is a newly
renovated park. In the middle is a statue of a large head which might invoke a reaction similar to "oh look, it's a statue of a big head. But upon closer inspection, you'll realize that his funky hair-do isn't hair at all. Instead it's a series of tiny statues showing traditional musicians, poets and average folk. Just another of those little things most people don't notice.Another jem is near the iron gate, next to the double gates. Just in off the main ring road is a pilgrimage site. The story is a strange man who
passed his life in a chair unable to stand or move as his body lacked skeleton. This, to the Azerbaijani’s deeply superstitious Muslim/shaman soul was immediately seen as a blessing. Today, some locals touch the stone doorway as they pass- it brings good luck. There is a little square opposite the entrance which has a tiny fountain and a metal frame on the side to flay animals. It is common to witness the very careful process of deconstructing a sheep together with a couple of women chatting by the fountain.And then there's the bread. Bread is seen as food from God. It takes
on a holy status, not just in Islam but many major religions, including Christianity (Lord's prayer). Being so important, it cannot be discarded in the same ways as the rest of the garbage. There are specific garbage cans, marked "Corek", which are exclusively for bread. On top of which, it is common to see bread on a slightly elevated plane. Not directly on the group, but on some ledge. Perhaps even in a plastic bag hanging from a doorknob or window grate. The list of hidden treasures goes on and on. I've purposely left several for you to find. So when in the Old City, don't just check-out the highlights. Instead take the time to examine the details. You'll be glad you did!
