There are dark times in the history of the better part of countries in the world. Times when fear and danger become commonplace. Civil wars, occupations, terrorism or genocide for some are all too real events which shake the foundations of domestic and world history. There are those for which these atrocities are not only part of recent memory but possibly still current events. For the fortunate few, we get to read about these in ancient archives. Azerbaijan falls somewhere in the middle.Nowhere in Baku do
people come to pay respects to the fallen more than Şahidlar Xiyabani (Martyrs Lane). It is here that the eternal flame shines brightly (actually there are 2). Although originally a Zoroastrian tradition, and later adopted by Abrahamic religions, eternal flames are most often used as a symbol to acknowledge and remember a person or event of national significance, or a group of brave and noble people connected to some event. Such is the case in this war memorial. There are a number of groups remembered here. Some of which you wouldn't expect to find. For example, there is a small memorial stone to English soldiers who died here in WWII. A slightly larger one commemorating fallen Turkish. But the vast majority are for, of course, Azeribaijani. Of them, most stones will stand for someone who has died in or fighting for the occupied territory of Nagorny-Karabakh. Even with 4 
U.N. resolutions against the Armenian occupation (resolutions 822, 853, 874, 884), the area, technically on a cease-fire, remains a hotspot. Both literally and figuratively. Even saying the word "Armenian" is sure to raise eyebrows, and perhaps a stern tongue-lashing by some local. Walking around town with the Lonely Planet which is titled "Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan" is enough to stir emotions. It's not uncommon for random people to start chatting with you, "where u from?", "U have wife?" "U hate Armenia?". The wounds are still deep, and I certainly don't envy the job of the Minsk Group who has been charged with negotiating some sort of solution to the problem. So a visit to this monument is a major part in understanding the current psyche of the general Azerbaijani population.But the most impressive, and easily the most moving, monument on the grounds are that of the victims of the January 20th massacre. Independence from the
Soviet Union had it's beginnings in Azerbaijan. Long before the fall of the wall, or recognition of Lithuania as an independent country, Azerbaijani were taking to the streets protesting communist rule. But on that fateful day in 1990, around the same time Mikhail Sergeyevich Gorbachev was being awarded the Nobel Peace Prize, the 26,000 Red Army troop were ordered to crush the movement for Independence (claimed to be too anti-Armenian). The troops fired into the crowd massed in front of the Dom Soviet (seat of Parliament) killing men, women and children. Some accounts say 100 were killed, some accounts say many more. The shooting continued for three days, followed by a 4-month state of emergency. Independence was later acknowledged on October 18th, 1991. But the damage was done. It is a national day of mourning in Azerbaijan. Countless 1,000s line up to lie what i think are red carnations on the black tombs. Least we forget.If all this is a little too somber for a holiday maker looking for fun and enjoyment, one of the benefits of coming up to Martyrs Lane is for the stunning view over the harbour. Easily the best free view of Baku.
About 300 metres north of Martrys Lane, along the main road, you'll come to yet another cemetery. The unnamed, National Cemetery, is the 
place to see Azerbaijans elite. Well, their final resting place anyway. Quite frankly, I have no idea who most of the people buried there are. But it's easy to recognize a few street names and metro station names, so they must be important. The immense tomb stones, are often a indicator of what they must of done. Simple enough to put together that someone with the headstone of a piano player was probably a musician. But one not to be missed is the grave of the former president, and father of the nation, Heydar Aliyev. And i do mean not to be missed. Part of any foreign dignitary's duties, upon visiting Azerbaijan, is to visit the site and lay flowers. Surprisingly only slightly over the top, it is an important national landmark.
Getting there is half the fun. While there are a number of buses that go from the centre to 
Martyrs Lane (#137, #70, #5 and so on), there is a better alternative. Sure it's possible to walk it, but stop being so cheap!!! From the boulevard, near Azneft circle (the big flag next to the Yacht Club) a Funicular, that's a inclined tramway, makes the trip every 10 or 15 minutes or so. It only costs 20 qapik. Hardly enough to break the bank. Besides, when a word starts with F-U-N it must be cool. But be forewarned. There are some sensitive government buildings on the way up and taking photos from the funicular is a breach of national security. Total no-no!! Martyrs Lane is ope 24/7 and there is no cost. Free is a great price. The National Cemetery is also free (yeah!!) but there are "guarded" gates which seem to work on extended business hours. There are no posted times, but i arrived at 9:30 am and it was open. I'm also seen it open after 6 or 7 pm. Overall, a visit to the fallen is a rewarding and enlightening things to do in Baku.