With a few exceptions, Azerbaijan lacks any major architectural wonders from the golden age of the Silk Road. That is except for the UNESCO World Heritage listed "Walled city of Baku with Maiden's Tower and Sirvanshah's Palace." So, living across the street from the Walled City, and having already seen the Tower, it was time to check out the Palace."Shirvanshah" was the Royal title in medieval Islamic times of a Persianized dynasty of Arabic
origin. The Shirvanshah established a native state in Shirvan and were rulers of this state, a historical region in present-day Azerbaijan. In the 15th century the Shirvanshah dynasty transferred his country's capital from Shemakha to Baku, and committed himself to the construction of the "palace". With prime location in the centre of the Old City, it provided the ideal place for the King to rule over his domain. The multi-building complex would have been the height of comfort, with everything from a mosque to a private hamam to large cistern.After paying the admission fee, you're free to wander the small, but packed grounds.
And in all likelihood, due to the lack of popularity of the place, any tourist is probable to have the place all to themselves. There are a few English labels around, explaining briefly what each area would have been used for. Entering through the central courtyard, to the left is the Divankhana. A small stone octahedral pavilion. It is situated inside a small courtyard surrounded by a gallery-arcade on three sides. Down some stairs to the right is the Palace Mosque (1430s) and the mausoleum, probably the most ornately decorated building. Inside lie the tombs of the Shirvan and his family. And a little beyond that is the relatively newly discovered (1939) bath house. In and of itself a sizable complex as opposed to a "house". But in the centre of the entrance square is the palace itself. So heavily remodelled in 2003, that it's more modern than my own apartment. Certainly not representing the period what-so-ever with track-lighting, central radiating heating and motion sensors.I can understand the culture and historical importance of the place. And it is one of the better architectural sights in the region. But come on... The restorations
undertaken are absolutely ridiculous. It has little to do with what it stands for than for some fairy version thereof. The price of only 2 Manat is reasonable, but to charge an additional 2 Manat for a camera is a further insult. There is no furniture and very few carvings or mosaics typical of a building of this period. There is a private collection inside displaying some mocked-up clothing and jewelery. But they charge yet another 2 Manat for the privilege of seeing it. Locals will pay to go up Maiden's Tower. They may even pay to go to the Fire Temple in Suraxani. But they rarly go inside the Palace. Good news for tourist who like the quiet. But would you go to a restaurant that's always empty. There must be a reason, right? But with time to kill in Baku, it something to do. It opens around 10, but don't go too early as they haven't opened all the doors until they've had their tea. And closes around 6 though you can always bribe the security guard to let you in after hours. 