Checkin' out Sheki

Wedged between Georgia and Russia, nestled into the foothills of the Casausus Mountains and with the only remotely intact tourism infrastructure in Azerbaijan, Sheki is a stop on almost anyone's visit of Azerbaijan. So after visiting Qax and Zaqatala as part of a long weekend, it was time to see what all the hub-bub was about.

There are traces of the large-scale settlements in Shaki that date to more than 2700 years ago. Sheki was one of the biggest cities of the Albanian states in the 1st century. It gained independence immediately after the states of Shirvanshahs and the Orlat dynasty came into power. Over the centuries it shifted hand from one empire to another, even becoming it's own Khanate for a while. Nowadays, Sheki is likely the most visited city in Azerbaijan, by both local and foreign tourists. Its setting, among the oak tree laden hills, means the weather is generally more comfortable here than other parts of the country. On top of which, there are a few notable attractions to see while in town.

When it come to decide where to stay, the choice is obvious. Located near most of the attractions, the Caravansary Hotel is by far the best option. A caravansary was a roadside inn in years gone by. A place for wary travellers to rest and eat. Caravansarys supported the flow of commerce and information on trade route stretching from Asia to the Middle East to Eastern Europe. This large 2-storey example has been superbly rebuilt to reflect it's former glory. Sure it's not 5-Star. Heck it's barely 1-Star. Rooms are simple, but all have western toilet and hot water. Plus mine had a couple of spiders thrown in for ambiance. There's a TV with local channels. I gradually figured out that if you hold the antennae while dangling you left foot at a 30degree angle, reception is almost watchable. But all that being said, the historic atmosphere of the hotel is certainly worth the modest 30 Manat per room. Even if you decide not to stay here, the tea garden is great way to experience the culture and still great some great photos of the hotel. If time is a concern, just walk in, the management doesn't seem to mind.

There are other things to see besides the hotel of course. Just up the hill from the Caravansaray, with a decent view over the city, is the Sheki Khan Saray (The King's Palace). The walled grounds (free entry) hold several building all belonging to the one time Khan of the land, and various other occupying forces. There are couple of museums that i wouldn't recommend even if THEY paid YOU. Although, one of them is housed in an interesting looking Russian church. Skip them and head right for the 250 year old Khan Summer Palace. The gardens surrounding the palace are free. From here you can see close up the work of art that is the Palace. The stunning exterior is masterfully decorated with dark blue, turquoise and ochre tiles in an array of geometric patterns. You'd think that alone would be a reward, but it's TOTALLY worth it to pay the 2 manat (or so) to go in the Palace. A skillful tour guide (no extra charge) shows you around the fabulous interior, explaining the meaning of the magnificent murals, which cover the walls and even the ceilings. Easily the most impressive building in Azerbaijan that i've seen.

From there, Sheki sort of winds down to a whimper. The side streets are fun to wander through. Where you'll find varied old building in various states of repair. And the main square is always full of men banging down dominoes before running home to their wives by dark. It was then off to the bus station, where it's super easy to grap a bus to anywhere. in my case it was back to Baku (5 manat) 'cause someone has to work for a living!