
Azerbaijan isn't exactly a hotbed of tourist attractions. As a matter of fact, it doesn't have any world famous sites (Baku old town in UNESCO though). What it does have is plenty of quaint little mountain villages. Many of which were isolated for centuries forcing them to develop their own language and skills. So with spring springing and a long week-end in hand i headed up to visit one of the more famous villages, Lahic.
The dirt road to Lahic winds up the Girdimanchai river gorge from the vineyards outside

Semaka, crossing the "torrent" (more like a trickle) on a flimsy bridge (more like flimsy) and skirting the sheer walls on narrow, roughly hewn ledges. Ice and snow cut Lahic off from the valley for weeks at a time in winter and washouts are common in heavy spring rains. The drive up to Lahic is as stunning as dangerous, animals appear out of nowhere in winding 'roads' that hug the cliff face that plunges down into the valley below. Best of all, you can do it in a centuries old bus, for about $2, from the village on Ismailli.

The village is, at best, around 2,000 people. They speak there own language, although Azeri and

Russian can still be heard (with the occasional foreign language). The one thing you're unlikely to hear is the wind and grind of city life. Instead it's the gentle tapping sound that spills from workshops along its roughly cobbled streets that fills the ears. Here in Lahic, centuries of isolation have honed the skills of the copper smiths which line the narrow streets. The soaring peaks that surround this village make farming nearly impossible, so local people turned very long ago to crafts. Copper smithing is only the most famous. Almost everyone who lives here can turn shapeless things into objects of quiet and even mystic beauty. Carpet weaving, wood carving and a variety of other such handy crafts await the weary traveller. Although, with raising copper prices and a booming tourist market, bargains are harder to come by now.
There are a few things about Lahic, and other Azeri mountain villages. Firstly, there are no hotels. Although Lahic has what it calls a "guesthouse", generally the only place to stay in places like this are with local families. The accommodation is

very simple. Squat toilets, no running water and maybe 6 hours of electricity are the norm.They charge $15-$20 for a mat on the floor and more food than you could ever eat. But most importantly is the opportunity to really see how the people live. While the level of English is usually VERY low, it's amazing what you can communicate with some simple hand gestures and a little patience. The locals, up here, are friendly and very welcoming. I could never imagine a European or North American opening their homes to a complete stranger. Ad they do it with absolute pleasure. Smile are infectious, and although the temperature is a fair bit cooler than in the city, you'll be filled with a genuine warm fuzzy feeling (too mushy? I'm just trying to fill the page.)