Naxchivan

So, you want to get WAY off the beaten track in Azerbaijan?
There's no better place to do it than the enclave of Naxchivan. Separated from the rest of Azerbaijan by Armenia, and pressed up against indifferent Iran, Naxchivan's only lifeblood is a narrow transport corridor to Eastern Turkey. This separation is what makes this little lozenge so rarely visited by outside travellers. And while many might consider it not worth the effort to get here, it is not without it's charms.

Naxchivan city, oddly enough the capital of the province, is likely the place any tourist will visit. It lies on a low plateau overlooking the Araz river, the natural border between Iran and Naxchivan. And on a super clear day, you might even be able to see Mt. Ararat in Eastern Turkey. But the real highlights of the city are the scattering of monuments throughout town. Some dating back to almost 1,000 years ago. The most famous, and impressive, is Momina Xatun Mausoleum (also title picture) It is easily the most recognizable Naxchivani landmark for the average Azerbaijani person. It entombed a leader and his beloved wife, although the graves themselves have been moved to Russia. The outside is adorned with beautiful patterns and engravings, many of which are in a turquoise glaze. There's a small photo exhibition inside illustrating the Mausoleum in the early 19th century. Surrounding the tower is a stone ram open air "museum".

Other than the mausoleum, there are a couple of other monuments and sights. For something different, there's a mausoleum. Built by the same architect as it's larger neighbour is the mausoleum of Yusif Huseynoglu. Who was apparently some guy who did something. It's a little hidden in the back streets, so the reward is just looking for it. There are a few museums and mosque here and there, but really nothing spectacular. Just on the outskirts of town, on the road to Turkey, there is a war memorial. It is really nicely set on a small hill, and has a well-manicured park which is great for watching some of Naxchivan's older citizens. Although you are certain to get more than your fair share of stares.


Overall, due to the fact that Naxchivan requires a fair bit of resourcefulness to visit, I'm not sure that I'd recommend it. You have one of three ways to get to Naxchivan. The most logical is by flying from Baku. Unfortunately, the heavily subsidised flights don't really benefit foreigners as locals pay $35 and foreigners pay $100. Furthermore, getting a flight has it's challenges and it is not uncommon to wait for a week as demand far exceeds supply. The other option is by entering overland via one of the two borders. Naxchivan has borders with Turkey and Iran, both open. I entered and exited via Turkey, and believe me, TAKE A TAXI!!! Buses can be caught at the border for hours, whereas a taxi will drop you off on one side, you walk across and get a different one on the other side. The problem is by entering overland you will need 2 Azerbaijani visas if you want to visit the rest of the country. And at a cost of up to $131, it's expensive. Not to mention the new requirement of a letter of invitation make it even more challenging.

Should you manage to get a flight, Naxchivan would make for an interesting alternative route through the region. Visitors are rare here and kept at a distance. Any exploration near the Armenian border might even be treated with hostility. But at a much slower pace than the rest of Azerbaijan, Naxchivan is a comfortable place to relax while preparing for onward travel.