Eastern Turkey

Little explored eastern Turkey holds several surprises for the brave adventurer. Sure there's a lack of beaches, and there aren't any great cities like Istanbul, but the rewards here are unlike those found in the touristy west. I had to transit eastern Turkey on my latest holiday. It was the best way for me to get to Iraq. It was mid-March, and winter still had it's grips on the region with freshly fallen snow covering the hills as i entered from Georgia. But that wasn't going to deter me. So, as opposed to just passing through everything i ended up spending some time there and "discovering" a different side of Turkey. My first stop was the city of Erzurum. It's one of the largest cities in Eastern Turkey and about as conservative as Turkey gets. But of course, modern commercialism can be seen everywhere. Erzurum is also a treasure trove of ancient buildings from mosques to tombs to medressas. Likely the most famous and "impressive" ofthese buildings is Çifte Minareli Medrese (Seminary of the Twin Minarets). Dating back to 1253, it was originally built for a Seljuk princess. The interiors arched hallways and rooms are usually empty, leaving the whole place to yourself. Plus with no entry fee, it's a bargain. A little further down the same road is the Yakutiye Medresesi. It was built in 1310 in the time of Sultan Olcayto, the İlhanlı Ruler. It was used as a theological school of history. But now it has been transformed into the Islamic Works and Ethnography Museum. While there are several other buildings along the same, main street, for something a little different, head uphill. With sweeping views over the valley, Erzurum's Citadel reserves the city's best location. First built in the first period of 5th century by by Roman Emperor Teodosyus the old fortress has seen it's share of battles. But the interior now lies empty and is quite frankly not worth the price of admission. My main reason for coming to town was to visit the Iranian consulate. After being rejected 3 times for an Iranian tourist visa, i thought I'd give one more shot and try to get, at least, a transit visa. To my surprise it was an unbelievably easy process and i got it same day!! So with the stress of visas out of the way, i headed up to Palandoken, Turkey's premier ski resort for a bit of fun in the snow. And at about$20 for lift, rentals and transport i had no complaints in the 35cm of new snow. Yeah, freshies!!!
With new visa in hand and sore legs from skiing, i headed off to the tiny town of Dogubayazit. Located only 16km from the border of Iran, this tiny village might not seem like anything special. Sure it's a pleasant location surrounded by mountains, no one would ever come here especially. Well, that is except for the fact that this town is blessed with two of the top attractions in eastern Turkey (and maybe all of Turkey). By far the easier of the attraction to notice towers high over the sleepy village. At 5,137 m is the stratovolcano of Mt. Ararat (title picture). It is Turkey's highest peak, but more famously is the rumoured place where Noah's Ark came to rest after the Great Flood. The other attraction is maybe not so famous, but in my opinion, one of the best buildings I've seen in a while. On a spectacular mountain top location İshak Paşa Sarayi is NOT to be missed. Only 5 km out of town this palace was built in 1685. Unlike most other buildings of the sort, İshak Paşa is the perfect compromise of a building that has been renovated and left to the harshness of time. With courtyards, dining hall, libraries, central heating and even dungeons you feel as though you've been transported back to a grander time. With intricate stone carving work and mosaics it is an absolute pleasure to wonder around the elegant halls. And don't forget, there aren't many tourist in Eastern Turkey, so you're likely to get this treasure all to yourself!! Watch out for the guard dogs, they've got a wicked mean streak. So after a quick side trip into Naxchivan (Azerbaijan - separate blog entry), i started to make my way south.
The town of Diyarbakir has the claim to fame as having the longest continuous stretch of wall after the Great Wall of China. The dramatic set of high walls of black basalt form a 5.5 km circle around the old city. But perhaps more interestingly, Diyarbakir is the centre of Kurdish culture with the majority of the population claiming Kurdish origins. This group is a bit controversial in Turkey. But with strong political leadership, they are slowing winning rights within the nation. Other than a walk around the walls and perhaps a political conversation with a local, Diyarbakir doesn't have much else to offer. There are a couple of churches and mosques to check out. And the gardens in and around the city walls have some nicely manicured parks to sit and relax in. But in general, not much time is needed in the city.


So, with my transit of eastern Turkey completed, i headed a little further south towards the Iraqi border. That's right, Iraq! While i thoroughly enjoyed my time, all my focus was now on my next destination. But that's another entry...

TIPS: Many places have good "off-season" travel opportunities. I think Eastern Turkey is at it's best in the winter.

Take advantage of the multiple entry visa if planning a larger regional trip.

My View: Eastern Turkey kicks ass. Perhaps it's not the image plastered on all of the tourist pamphlets, but it should be. With remarkably reasonable prices, numerous historical and natural attractions not to mention a genuine hospitable nature, the region has a lot to offer.

Politically, the area is a little tense. The plight of the Kurdish people has been a long difficult one as the national Turkish government has bestowed few right upon them. And the "terrorist" group PKK certainly isn't helping matters. Their methods to ensure a separate Kurdish state are, in my opinion, misguided. I was rather surprised at the general support for the PKK actions among the population.