Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan, sits on a jetty of land thrust out into the Caspian Sea. But the Absheron Peninsula is home to much more than just the country's capital. The word Absheron consists of a few parts. Ab means water, shour means salty and an is the suffix that makes nouns plural in Persian. So, the combination of these words comes out to mean "place of salty water". There were a few sights worth checking out, so on a day off i headed into the unknown.The first place on most people's agenda is the town of Surakhani. The town itself is nothing 
spectacular but it's a 17th century temple which has acted like a beacon through the years. However the sight has been holy for much longer than that. According to historical sources, before the construction of the Indian Temple Of Fire in Surakhani at the end of the 17th, the local people also worshiped at this site because of the "seven holes with burning flame". These "seven holes with burning flame" are the literal meaning of the toponym "Surakhani". Zoroastrians, an ancient fire worshiping religion
considered the natural gas vents as a pinnacle of their ceremonies. This 3,000 year old religion was quite prevalent within the region, stretching from China to Europe, but having it's heartland around Persia. However, once the Hindu's moved in and built the temple we see today, the area lost any and all traces to Zoroastrianism. Experts from early explorers to modern historians were unaware of it's true history until excavations could be undertaken. To make matters even worse, with the encroaching settlement of the town, increased gas production and diversion of the main gas field to factories nearby, the original flame extinguished in 1969. Today, the museum's fire is fed by mains gas piped in from Baku city. If you arrive early, you can even help light the fires... with a match! The grounds are 
small and self-contained. There are several rooms within the fortified walls, with tacky mannequin displays and a few pictures (some even with English). The walls themselves are covered with numerous plaques in Sanskrit and Punjabi. Often labeled as one of the greatest tourist attractions in Azerbaijan, the Fire Temple is anything but a life changing experience. However, with easy access via public transport from Baku and a reasonable admission price (2 Manat, 2 Euro, $2.50) , why the heck not? As long as you go with "realistic" expectations, you can't be disappointed, right?
spectacular but it's a 17th century temple which has acted like a beacon through the years. However the sight has been holy for much longer than that. According to historical sources, before the construction of the Indian Temple Of Fire in Surakhani at the end of the 17th, the local people also worshiped at this site because of the "seven holes with burning flame". These "seven holes with burning flame" are the literal meaning of the toponym "Surakhani". Zoroastrians, an ancient fire worshiping religion
considered the natural gas vents as a pinnacle of their ceremonies. This 3,000 year old religion was quite prevalent within the region, stretching from China to Europe, but having it's heartland around Persia. However, once the Hindu's moved in and built the temple we see today, the area lost any and all traces to Zoroastrianism. Experts from early explorers to modern historians were unaware of it's true history until excavations could be undertaken. To make matters even worse, with the encroaching settlement of the town, increased gas production and diversion of the main gas field to factories nearby, the original flame extinguished in 1969. Today, the museum's fire is fed by mains gas piped in from Baku city. If you arrive early, you can even help light the fires... with a match! The grounds are 
small and self-contained. There are several rooms within the fortified walls, with tacky mannequin displays and a few pictures (some even with English). The walls themselves are covered with numerous plaques in Sanskrit and Punjabi. Often labeled as one of the greatest tourist attractions in Azerbaijan, the Fire Temple is anything but a life changing experience. However, with easy access via public transport from Baku and a reasonable admission price (2 Manat, 2 Euro, $2.50) , why the heck not? As long as you go with "realistic" expectations, you can't be disappointed, right?
Just outside the temple, and indeed scattered throughout the peninsula, are the ubiquitous 
Nodding Donkeys. Without doubt, the oil & gas industry is Azerbaijan's lifeblood. In fact, in 2007, mining and hydrocarbon industries accounted for well over 95 per cent of the Azerbaijani economy. The nodding donkey, the backbone of the industry, is a typical oil pump jack which brings the black gold up to the surface. It is their repeated head bobbing action which lends them their name. The constant humming of the diesel engines fill the sky. The land can be transformed into an apocalyptic sight (title picture) 
with pollution permeating into the ground meaning NOTHING can grow here. The lowest-ranking city for health and sanitation is Baku in Azerbaijan, according to http://www.mercer.com/. Personally, the oil fields were one of my favourite sights on the day. While some might say Baku's Maiden's Tower is the unofficial symbol of Azerbaijan, my vote goes in for the nodding donkey. Do be careful whe walking around though. This is all private property. Although nobody saw me wandering around, it is entirely possible that the land owner might get irate to see some tourist taking pictures of his prized donkeys!!Continuing further up the peninsula, I came to the city of Mardekan. Out near the tip of the 
peninsula, this town of about 20,000 has more than it's share of things to see. Probably the major attraction is one of two old towers, one of which is some 20+ metres tall. The tower was built in the 14th century by the Christian Albanians. Entry is free, and if you ask around, you can find the gatekeeper. He doesn't speak any English, but you can get the gist of the history. He will tell you 
of the miles of tunnels underground connecting a series a towers throughout the region. Show you the very deep well. And, of course, the views from the top are spectacular. Be forewarned though, the stairs are narrow and steep, there is no railing or light and the floor has massive holes to plummet to your death. But that's half the fun!! After storming the castle, you can head to an important local shrine. It's a religious one, with an important Mullah (Islamic holy man) enshrined there. However, for me personally, i was there to pay respects to Hajji Zeynalabdin Taghi oglu Taghiyev. Taghiyev was one of the world's first oil Barons. About 100 years ago, he used his vast wealth to rebuild Baku. Most of the famous and beautiful buildings you see when strolling through the town were personally financed by him. Not to mention he "loaned" the Azerbaijani government enough money to fund the republic. Although most 
tourists, and indeed locals, may not know him, i do! And considering that the view from my apartment in Baku looks out onto some of his most famous architectural achievements, i figured a visit to his grave was the least i could do. An unexpected treat while at the shrine was a little old lady sitting in the corner. Her "job" is to rid you of any anxiety you may be carrying. This is done by waving a glass bottle over your head, saying some words i didn't understand, then shattering the bottle into a million pieces i a thunderous crash!! All and all it was a good day out.
peninsula, this town of about 20,000 has more than it's share of things to see. Probably the major attraction is one of two old towers, one of which is some 20+ metres tall. The tower was built in the 14th century by the Christian Albanians. Entry is free, and if you ask around, you can find the gatekeeper. He doesn't speak any English, but you can get the gist of the history. He will tell you 
of the miles of tunnels underground connecting a series a towers throughout the region. Show you the very deep well. And, of course, the views from the top are spectacular. Be forewarned though, the stairs are narrow and steep, there is no railing or light and the floor has massive holes to plummet to your death. But that's half the fun!! After storming the castle, you can head to an important local shrine. It's a religious one, with an important Mullah (Islamic holy man) enshrined there. However, for me personally, i was there to pay respects to Hajji Zeynalabdin Taghi oglu Taghiyev. Taghiyev was one of the world's first oil Barons. About 100 years ago, he used his vast wealth to rebuild Baku. Most of the famous and beautiful buildings you see when strolling through the town were personally financed by him. Not to mention he "loaned" the Azerbaijani government enough money to fund the republic. Although most 
tourists, and indeed locals, may not know him, i do! And considering that the view from my apartment in Baku looks out onto some of his most famous architectural achievements, i figured a visit to his grave was the least i could do. An unexpected treat while at the shrine was a little old lady sitting in the corner. Her "job" is to rid you of any anxiety you may be carrying. This is done by waving a glass bottle over your head, saying some words i didn't understand, then shattering the bottle into a million pieces i a thunderous crash!! All and all it was a good day out.While none of these sights should be on the top of the list of the average 
tourist, if you find yourself wth time to spare (getting visas) they make for a good distraction. Bus #84 leaves from the Azizbayov metro station in Baku. It is its first stop and the train station at Surakhani is the last. The trip costs only 20 qapik (20 cents). From the train station it's only a 3 mintute walk to the temple. Then bus #77 goes from the train station to Mardakan. However it's often VERY full, so a taxi will cost you 5 or 6 Manat. Coming back to Baku, the majority of buses are heading to the city and they will stop at at least one of the metro stations, from where you can find you way home.
tourist, if you find yourself wth time to spare (getting visas) they make for a good distraction. Bus #84 leaves from the Azizbayov metro station in Baku. It is its first stop and the train station at Surakhani is the last. The trip costs only 20 qapik (20 cents). From the train station it's only a 3 mintute walk to the temple. Then bus #77 goes from the train station to Mardakan. However it's often VERY full, so a taxi will cost you 5 or 6 Manat. Coming back to Baku, the majority of buses are heading to the city and they will stop at at least one of the metro stations, from where you can find you way home.