Muharram is the first month of the Islamic calendar. It is one of the four months of the year in 
which fighting is prohibited. Since the Islamic calendar is lunar, Muharram moves from year to year when compared with the Gregorian calendar. Muharram is so called because it was unlawful to fight during this month; the word is derived from the word ‘haram’ meaning forbidden. The month, itself, is rather unspectacular to the average observer. There are no parties, no celebrations or other similar events. It is held to be the most sacred of all the months, excluding Ramadan. Some Muslims fast during these days.
The tenth day of Muharram is called Yaumu-l 'Ashurah, meaning, ‘the tenth day’, and 
it is a day of voluntary fasting. Fasting differs among the Muslim groupings; mainstream Shi'a Muslims stop eating and drinking during sunlight hours and do not eat until the evening. But even more interesting, is the commemoration of the martyrdom of Husayn ibn Ali. Husayn ibn Ali the grandson of Muhammad and the third Shi'a Imam. This means that he's rather important to the religion. At the Battle of Karbala in the year 61 AH (AD 680), Husayn was killed. So Ashura is somewhat similar to Remembrance Day in the west. But that's about where the similarities end.
The practice of self mutilation is officially banned by the Qaran (the Muslim holy book). And 
therefore it is also banned by the government of most Muslim countries. However, during Ashura this seems to go right out the window. Some faithful followers, in an act of remembrance/devotion will whip themselves with sharpened chains or cut themselves with large knives. All the while chanting Husayn. It is something that i had not previously witnessed. And while the ritual in Azerbaijan pales in comparison, in both numbers and blood, to that in Iran, it was still something to see. There were about 20 or 30 men, some old some young performing the ritual, with several hundred on-lookers.
Without question i was the only foreigner, or non-Muslim there. And even though i 
drew looks of attention, i never felt threatened or in any danger. That was until 1 p.m. This is the symbolic time to remember the war and Husayn. It was a this point that the faithful attempted to re-enact the battle at Karbala. They lunged forward in aggressive movements waving their knives in the air. Then suddenly cut themselves on the head. It was anarchy. Men grabbing and tussling trying to avoid being cut themselves. I was caught in the middle as I wasn't sure of the exact ritual. By the end several men were cut, all of which were on 
purpose. Then all was calm. The chanting stopped. The "injured" left. With the spectacle finished it was also time for me to go. Although the government officially tell the people to simply donate blood at this time, i think the ritual is WAY more interesting. While my original plan was to go to Iran and see it in full scale, I was content to see anything at all. The power of love, death and religion never cease to amaze me. This was yet another example, which i will not soon forget.