Southern Kyrgyzstan

Rarely can such a large difference be seen in two hemispheres of such a small difference. But northern and southern Kyrgyzstan are like 2 different worlds. After finishing my contract in Russified Bishkek, with many excursions to the Kyrgyz mountains, I found the largely Uzbek south refreshing.

With little time planned for the area, the first stop was Kyrgyzstan's second largest city, Osh. Often referred to as "the Capital of the South", Osh can trace it's history back some 2,000 years. One of the original Silk road trading posts, Osh has the best (although not great) markets in the country. However, recent tensions between the Kyrgyz and Uzbeks have scared the image. In 1990, conflict between the two major groups was responsible for up to 1,000 deaths. The two groups still aren't the best of friends. Many of my Bishkek buddies questioned my intentions of visiting the region at all.

The first thing to see on any travellers agenda will certainly be the very centrally located Osh Bazaar. With a disorienting maze of alleys and back alleys, it is certainly the most impressive market in the country. Anything from homemade soaps, to horse bridles, to cloth, to meat and veg, it's all here. It's not really much of a souvenir market. But there will certainly be some off-beat things that you may want to pick up to bring home to the loved ones. I especially liked the cornucopia of Kalpaks, the traditional Kyrgyz hat. But one of the biggest things I noticed, though, was the unmistakable Uzbek (and partly Tajik) influence. Women were largely covered, a HUGE departure from Bishkek where they were as uncovered as possible without being nakes. At times, i'm the sort of travaller that likes to be slapped in the face with cultural differences. The sort of things where you think to yourself "Hey, we don't have that back home". The bazaar did that for me. Sights, smells and sound overload the senses. Although being far from the best market in the world I've visited, it was able to satisfy my need for the "exotic". At least for the afternoon.

Kyrgyzstan's only UNESCO world heritage listed sight is also in Osh. Sulaiman-Too mountain dominates the skyline as a seemingly purpose built rock outcroping. Sulayman was an Islamic profit, whose graves is supposedly on the site. The Islamic holy site is reknowned for curing bareness in women, headaches, backpain and even prolongs your life. Although, I'm sure the climb up there, in scorching heat, might be the cause of the backpain and headaches to begin with. There's a ticket booth at the bottom of a VERY long set of stairs. It kind of puts you to shame to see 80 year-old, one-legged blind women bounding to the top as you rest, gasping for air. Whatever! Bloody showoffs!!!

With a self imposed time restraint in the area, i only had time for 1 side trip. The choice was easy, Arslanbob. With a claim to fame of being the largest walnut forest in the world, how could you miss it? The scenic beauty here, as well as temperate climate, make it an excellent getwaway from the hustle and bustle of Osh. As a matter of fact, life here is super slow. Pull up a Tapchan (title picture) by a tea house and the hours just melt away. Watching the "white beards" meet at the same time and the same place they have for an age and more. There 's a great place in the "centre" of town, where the mats are balanced delicately on an wooden supported balcony dangling over a river. After recieving your black belt in relaxation, head off to one of the many walking trail which burrow their way through the thick walnut forest. There are a few waterfalls to search out, although you made need to ask for directions a couple of times. There's kind of a monopoly on accomodtation in town as CBT runs the show. But the homestays are of top notch quality and the food can't be beat.


Alas, with bigger fish to fry, like Tajikistan and Afghanistan I found some tranport out of Osh heading down the Pamir Highway. Leaving behind friends, memories and the pleasent coutry of Kyrgyzstan.