Bishkek, the Kyrgyz capital

Like all Central Asian capitals, Bishkek lies at a crossroads. It teeters between development and stagnation. Between the welcoming and the dangerous. The beauty and the hideous. Maybe that's why I loved it!!

The population of Bishkek is somewhere just under 1,000,000 but there's no way it feel like that. I was actually quite convinced for the first month or so that there were only 1 and half streets. There aren't a lot of creature comforts in the city. Heck, there are barely the basic facilities. Due to horrible governance, we lost power every night at around midnight and frequently during the day. Water would randomly be shut off. Hot water was turned off for the month of May while they checked the pipes. Central heating, again government controlled, turned on about a month too late leaving you huddling in the kitchen next to the stove. Of course that was if the gas worked. But maybe that's why I loved it!!

The pace of the city is slow. As is the development of the country. Although locals complain about traffic, it's nowhere near the amount of any other capital city. There are plenty of parks to stroll around, in the summer at least. They're great for people watching. It is quite common to see men chatting away on park benches wearing traditional hat called Kalpaks. Families sitting on the grass with an impromptu picnic. Or children playing in antiquated soviet death contraptions, I mean amusement park rides. Random barrels on wheel dispense local drinks like tan, maksym and kymyz. It's best not to ask "what the hell is in this?" and just treat your mouth to the bizarre cavalcade of flavours. My favourite park was Irkendik which means Freedom. Everything here is named Freedom. It's not so much a park as a treed-lined pedestrian street. It starts at the centrally located (though rather useless) train station and stretches all the way to the centre. The psychedelically coloured park benches beckon you in like some siren from the age of exploration. I spent many an afternoon here.
Walking to the end of Freedom Park brings you to the centre of the city. Prospekt Chui is by far the main street in town. It where it all happens, although that isn't so much. The crowning jewel on the road is Ala Too Square, a massive expance of soviet pavement. Fountains abound, if there's water, and locals kids come to play/bathe in the brilliantly cooling water. The square is surrounded by buildings indicative of the former USSR power. Honestly, there wasn't really much here until the soviets arrived, so most of what you see is from that era. Likely the most interesting building is the National Historic Museum. Located just behind the big statue, oddly enough called Freedom Statue. This place is the most fun you can have in Bishkek with your pants still on. For a few Soms, you get transported back in time to the full glory of the Soviet Union. You easily loose track of the number of Lenin bust, flag with hammers & sickles and giant red stars. Or my personal favourite, a massive mosaic of Ronald Regan riding a bomb, a la Slim Pickens from Dr. Strangelove. There are a few other things in the ara to check out. The presidents office in nearby, there's an eteranl flame of two and every ex-pats favourite Fat Boys Cafe. Also in the same area are the honour guard "protecting" the flag. There's an hourly changing of the guard in all in peacock pagentry. But the best show to see is when they either put up or take down the flag. They take place shortly after sunrise and just before sunset respectively. Photos are no problem, although step on the wrong side of the rope and they might just shoot you. A little dramatic , but maybe that's why I loved it!!
Once you've had your fill of the city, there are a few escapes into nature worth checking out. Ala Archa is the most easily accessable. There are min-buses that'll take you to the gates, from where you'll either have to walk or hitchhike. It's super popular on weekend as Bishkekers seek cooler temperatures and fresh air. It's fine for the afternoon, but more enthusiastic trekker can head up to one of many multiday hikes. There are a few other areas to explore, some including ski resorts which transform into moutnain biking havens! One tips, though, is to totally skip Burana Tower. The time, money and effort to get there simple isn't worth it!!

Overall, Bishkek is not going to be the most exciting place you've ever visited. But it's not without it's charms. It does have to be said though, be careful at night. Firstly, poorly lit streets+open sewers=disaster. Secondly, Kyrgyz men like to drink and they aren't very good drunks. If you notice a group of young Kyrgyz men on a bit of a bender, head the other way. They like to fight to prove there manhood.